PRINCETON,  N.  J.  V/i 


Purchased  by  the  Hamill  Missionary  Fund. 


DS  659    .D43  1902 
Dean,  John  Marvin,  1875- 
1935. 

The  cross  of  Christ  in  Bole 
1  and 


Digitized  by 

the  Internet  Archive 

in  2015 

https://archive.org/details/crossofchristinbOOdean_0 


The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


The  Cross  of  Christ  in 
Bolo-Land 


REV.  JOHN  MARVIN  DEAN 

Formerly  an  Army  Secretary  of  the  International  Committee  of 
Young  Men's  Christian  Association  in  the  Philippine  Islands 


Fleming  H.  Revell  Company 

Chicago,  New  York  &  Toronto 
Publishers  of  Evangelical  Literature 


MCMI  I 


I IRRAPY  m 


PRINCETON 


SEP  1  6  2003 


THEOLOGICAL  SEMINARY 


COPYRIGHT,  1902, 
BY     FLEMING  H. 
REVELL  COMPANY 
March 


TO  THE 
MEMORY  OF 
LEONARD  P.  DAVIDSON 

THE  FIRST  CHRISTIAN  MISSIONARY 
TO  FALL  ASLEEP 
IN  CHRIST 
ON  PHILIPPINE  SOIL 


CONTENTS 

CHAP.  PAGE 

Introductory   7 

I.    A  Long  Sea  Furrow   13 

II.    Manila  and  Iloilo   40 

III.  Ten  Days  among  the  Garrisons      ,      .  60 

IV.  The  Presbyterian  Mission  in  the  Visayas   .  75 
V.    A  Patchwork  of  Journal  Pages      .      .  88 

VI.    The  Baptist  Mission  in  the  Visayas    .      .  112 

VII,    An  Interview  with  the  Enemy        .      ,  128 

VIII.    Manila  Again   146 

IX.    Northern  Luzon   168 

X.    Missionary  Conditions  of  To-day      .      .  197 

Appendix   226 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 

Present  Headquarters  Army  Y.  M.  C.  A.,  Walled 

City,  Manila  Frontispiece 

Conference  of  Army  Association  Secretaries  at 

Manila,  February,  1901  13 

View  from  a  Missionary's  Window,  Iloilo  .  .  40 
Army  Y.  M.  C.  A.  at  Dagupan,  Luzon  ...  60 
Visayans  Unable  to  Get  into  a  Baptist  Service  at 

Taro,  Panay,  on  account  of  Crowd  .       .      .  112 

Visayan  Archer  128 

Residence  of  Missionary  Lund  at  Iloilo  .  .  .146 
Old  and  Young  at  Dagupan,  01  a  Pangasinane 

Grandmother  168 

Spanish  Friar  197 

Home,  Sweet  Home  226 

Map,  Showing  Field  of  Missionary  Operations      .  226 


Introbuctorie 


E  ARE  certainly  justified  in 
calling  the  three  com- 
pleting    years   of  the 


last  century  a  most 
momentous  epoch  both 
in  our  national  life  and 
the  history  of  Christian 
missions.  The  signifi- 
cance of  American  con- 
trol in  the  Philippine 
Islands  and  the  conse- 
quent extension  of  the 


Republic's  influence  throughout  the  Orient  has 
been  well  emphasized  in  recent  literature. 
The  meaning  of  the  period  in  its  relation  to 
the  world's  evangelization  has  not  been  so  ably 
interpreted.  In  all  the  history  of  modern  mis- 
sions we  have  never  seen  Protestantism  and 
Catholicism  confronting  one  another  on  even 
terms  in  any  field  of  world  importance.  Mis- 
sions in  Italy,  Spain  and  the  South  American 
states  have  been  compelled  to  fight  for  their 
very  existence  against  governmental  opposi- 
tion, while  at  the  same  time  attempting  to 
evangelize  ignorant  and  prejudiced  peoples. 
They  have  had  arrayed  against  them  both 
procurator  and  publican.    Since  the  time  when 


7 


8 


Introductory 


the  mighty  spiritual  impulse  of  the  Reforma- 
tion died  away  into  scholasticism  and  formal- 
ism we  have  been  humiliated  by  the  knowledge 
that  a  geographical  line  of  demarkation  crosses 
Europe  from  the  Polish  border  to  the  North 
Sea,  on  the  south  of  which  all  is  Catholic  and  on 
the  north  all  Protestant.  Not  a  nation  has 
been  carried  into  the  Protestant  cause  since  the 
day  of  the  reformers.  And  this  line,  standing 
as  it  does  at  present  perpetuates  the  partial 
failure  of  Protestantism  for  it  is  the  line  upon 
which  the  reformers  retreated.  To  the  south 
of  it  lie  Bohemia,  Belgium,  and  the  Huguenot 
provinces  of  France,  all  once  Protestant  to  the 
core  but  now  thoroughly  Romanized.  Stranded 
mountain  communities  in  Italy  and  a  few 
secondary  centers  of  population  in  southern 
France  alone  remain  true  to  the  faith  of  Luther 
and  Calvin — isolated  witnesses  of  the  lost 
ground.  This  thought  is  so  disheartening  to 
some  that  they  feel  quite  forced  to  abandon  all 
hope  of  ever  seeing  a  united  Protestant  Europe. 
They  half  admit  that  our  cold  Protestantism  is 
more  adaptable  to  the  sturdy  northener  and 
showy  Catholicism  more  acceptable,  if  not 
even  more  suitable  to  the  sunny  southerner. 

It  is  with  especial  interest  then  that  those  of 
us  who  believe  the  gospel  of  Christ  substantially 
identical  with  the  Protestant  position  and  both 
intended  and  destined  to  be  a  world-conquer- 


Introductory 


9 


ing  power  knowing  no  racial  or  geographical 
limits,  view  the  unique  situation  in  Cuba  and 
the  Philippine  Islands  to-day.  Here  at  last  we 
have  a  Catholic  population  thoroughly  per- 
meated with  the  spirit  of  the  sixteenth  cen- 
tury papacy  and  as  completely  under  priestly 
influence  and  Romish  institutions  as  any 
people  have  ever  been,  but  controlled  by  a 
government  pledged  to  neutrality  in  religious 
matters.  Truth  is  at  last  to  meet  error  in  a 
fair  field  and  the  adjourned  struggle  of  the  six- 
teenth resumed  in  the  interested  and  intel- 
ligent arena  of  the  twentieth  century. 

To  students  of  missionary  history  an  addi- 
tional interest  attaches  itself  to  the  opening  up 
of  the  Philippine  Islands  before  the  advancing 
gospel  in  that  there,  for  the  first  time,  we  are 
to  behold  a  Malay  Christianity.  In  some  way 
the  Malaysian  peoples  have  been  largely 
evaded  or  overlooked  by  missionary  pioneers. 
Something  has  been  attempted  for  them  in 
Sumatra  and  other  East  Indian  Islands  under 
the  Dutch  regime.  The  results  have  not  been 
large  but  sufficiently  promising  to  prophecy 
decided  success  for  a  larger  effort.  A  mission 
established  at  Singapore  for  the  express  pur- 
pose of  reaching  the  Malays  at  that  center  has 
almost  entirely  abandoned  the  original  pro- 
gramme, finding  it  much  easier  to  secure  a 
hearing  from  the  Hindus  and  Chinese  who 


lO 


Introductory 


form  so  large  a  part  of  the  population  of 
Straits  Settlements.  We  are  thus  to  see  a  new 
race  transformed.  It  is  idle  to  refuse  to  admit 
that  while  Christianity  has  meant  eternal  life 
to  all  nations  and  races  alike,  it  has  yet  mani- 
fested itself  differently  in  differing  peoples. 
This  is  not  because  the  gospel  is  so  weak  as  to 
be  modified  and  altered  by  racial  character- 
istics. It  is  because  the  gospel  is  so  strong  as 
to  be  universal  and  adaptable.  John  was  not 
Peter,  nor  Peter  Paul,  yet  all  were  Christ's. 
The  Saxon  is  not  the  Latin  nor  the  Latin  the 
Kelt,  yet  all  have  been  transformed  by  the 
Gospel  and  have  contributed  to  its  glory  and 
extension  by  their  racial  peculiarities.  Ger- 
many could  not  have  given  Christianity  a  St. 
Francis  nor  Italy  a  Luther.  What  then  shall 
be  the  Christianity  of  the  Malay  tropics? 
What  peculiar  glory  of  the  Gospel  shall  show 
forth  in  them  as  in  no  other  people?  What 
apostles  shall  they  give  to  the  church? 

These  considerations  taken  together  with  the 
strange  ignoring  of  the  islands  by  evangelical 
forces  in  the  past  and  the  remarkable  way  in 
which  they  have  recently  been  placed  in  direct 
touch  with  that  nation  most  nearly  Christian  of 
all,  lead  me  to  feel  that  even  the  crudest  testi- 
mony of  an  eye-witness  concerning  the  forma- 
tive period  in  Philippine  affairs  and  the 
beginnings  of  Christian  activity  will  not  be 


Introductory  1 1 


entirely  valueless.  It  will  not  be  possible  to 
avoid  giving  the  Christian  work  among  the 
troops  in  the  Philippines  a  large  place  in  these 
pages.  My  apology  is  not  alone  the  fact  that 
my  own  standpoint  is  necessarily  that  of  the 
barrack  and  camp  but  that  Christian  work  for 
the  benefit  of  the  soldier  has  always  proven  to 
be  strategic.  Soldiers  in  war-time  represent 
the  best  manhood  of  the  nation — represent- 
ative, young  and  greatly  tempted,  and  have 
focused  upon  them  the  attention  of  the  nation. 
The  soldier,  too,  has  a  larger  part  in  the  Word 
of  God  than  we  are  apt  to  concede  him.  The 
Old  Testament  is  essentially  martial.  The 
campaigns  of  Joshua,  even  apart  from  their 
miraculous  element,  are  the  worthy  a  critical 
study  by  a  military  expert.  The  strategy  of 
Gideon;  the  victories  of  David;  the  wars  of 
Judah  and  Israel;  the  rise  of  the  great  war- 
powers,  Assyria,  Babylonia,  and  Persia,  the 
story  of  Nehemiah,  the  "Cromwell  of  Judea"; 
the  war  songs  of  the  Psalter;  the  records  of 
army-defying  prophets — all  go  to  make  the 
Old  Testament  intensely  dramatic  and  of 
absorbing  interest  to  the  martial  mind.  As  to 
the  New  Testament  the  soldier  is  found  at  the 
cross  and  tomb,  questioning  John  the  Baptist, 
guarding  the  apostles,  and  exercising  faith  in 
Christ  at  Philippi,  Caesarea  and  Rome.  It  is  a 
soldier  who  astonishes  the  Master  by  his  faith 


12 


Introductory 


and  a  soldier  whose  conversion  is  given  the 
most  prominence  in  the  Acts  of  the  Apostles. 
"Believe  on  the  Lord  Jesus  Christ,"  was  an 
apostle's  advice  to  a  soldier  and  a  captain  and 
one  private  opened  the  door  of  faith  to  the 
Gentiles.  The  soldier-life  furnished  apostles 
with  their  texts  and  the  imagery  of  war  is  used 
to  describe  the  expected  advent  of  the  coming 
Lord.  Revelation  itself  is  a  book  of  flame  and 
sword  and  will  probably  never  be  satisfactorily 
interpreted  until  illuminated  by  the  red  light 
of  some  future  day  of  war  and  persecution. 
The  Roman  system  under  which  the  Apostles 
labored  naturally  made  the  legionary  prom- 
inent in  the  records  of  the  early  churches. 
The  Saxon  is  the  modern  Roman,  and  it  is  very 
fitting  that  unusual  efforts  to  reach  and  save 
the  men  who  compose  the  world-belting 
legions  of  our  race,  should  mark  this  time  of 
expanding  empires.  The  work  then  of  the 
Young  Men's  Christian  Associations  among 
both  American  and  English  troops  can  be 
justified  and  applauded  from  many  stand- 
points. Not  only  does  such  activity  mitigate 
the  evils  of  war,  recruit  the  Kingdom  of  Christ 
with  young  and  promising  manhood  and  suc- 
cor those  in  most  temptation,  but  among  the 
soldiers  of  a  world-circling  nation  it  proves  a 
valuable  factor  in  foreign  lands  as  an  adjunct 
of  Christian  missions. 


CROSS  OF  CHRIST 
IN  BOLO-LAND 


I 

H  Xong  Sea  jfurrow 


HILE  spending  a  few  weeks  in 
England  in  the  summer 
of  '99  I  picked  up  a 
newspaper  and  began 
the  customary  search 
for  the  obscure  corner 
reserved  for  American 
affairs.  Nothing  more 
effectually  subdues  the 
nativ2  pride  of  the 
American  traveler  in  the 
old  country  than  the  in- 
cidental way  in  which  his  country's  affairs  are 
treated  by  the  daily  papers.  The  slightest  con- 
tinental or  colonial  news  is  magnified  into  col- 
umns and  gravely  pondered  in  the  editorials, 
while  the  few  paragraphs  allotted  to"ne\vs  from 
the  states"  largely  consist  of  impossible  "wild- 
west"  stories  and  amusing  forecasts  of  coming 
13 


14 


The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


elections.  This  spoils  the  morning  coffee  for  the 
ardent  patriot  who  has  wearied  of  the  parlia- 
mentary debates  and  the  decorous  advertise- 
ments of  Epp's  cocoa  and  Lipton's  teas.  On 
this  occasion,  however,  a  little  echo  of  our 
Philippine  insurrection  had  found  its  way  into 
the  sober  columns  and  I  was  at  once  interested 
in  the  news  that  twenty-five  additional  regi- 
ments were  to  be  recruited  for  service  in  the 
islands.  Circumstances  had  prevented  me 
from  participating  directly  in  the  work  of  the 
Army  Young  Men's  Christian  Association 
among  the  troops  during  the  Spanish-American 
war  and,  being  both  strongly  drawn  to  the  sol- 
dier as  such,  and  convinced  that  this  new 
mobilization  presented  the  greatest  present 
opportunity  for  service,  I  hastened  to  offer  my 
services  by  letter  to  the  International  Com- 
mittee at  New  York  City,  and  returned  to  the 
United  States  in  order  to  be  in  readiness  should 
the  offer  be  accepted.  After  a  considerable 
correspondence  I  was  informed  that  the  Army 
and  Navy  Department  of  the  International 
Committee,  already  carrying  on  a  large  work 
among  the  men  of  the  army  of  occupation  in 
Cuba  and  Porto  Rico  as  well  as  in  the  camps 
and  posts  of  our  own  land,  had  decided  to 
avail  itself  not  only  of  my  services  but  those  of 
several  other  men  as  well,  and  was  perfecting 
plans  to  use  us  to  greatest  advantage  among  the 


A  Long  Sea  Furrow  15 


newly  raised  troops.  The  way  soon  opened 
for  a  most  effective  work.  Congress  had  failed 
to  provide  chaplains  for  the  new  regiments 
and  the  Secretary  of  War,  realizing  the  need  of 
religious  and  social  work  among  the  men,  re- 
quested the  International  Committee  to  provide 
workers  to  accompany  the  troops  to  the  tropics, 
acting  as  chaplains  on  the  transports,  and  min- 
istering in  all  ways  possible  to  the  comfort  and 
well  being  of  the  men. 

Believing  this  to  be  a  door  opened  of  the 
Lord,  the  committee  at  once  acceded  and  five 
of  us  were  assigned  to  as  many  transports. 
I,  after  conference  with  the  secretaries  of  the 
Army  and  Navy  Department  of  the  Assocaition 
at  New  York  City,  sailing  from  that  port  for 
the  Philippine  Islands  via  Suez  in  the  United 
States  Army  transport  "Logan,"  having  on 
board  the  entire  Forty-first  regiment  (Colonel 
Richmond),  a  hospital  corps,  some  twenty  army 
nurses  and  three  hundred  of  a  crew — in  all 
seventeen  hundred  and  sixty  souls.  This  on 
the  twentieth  of  November,  1899. 

The  British  military  attache,  during  our 
Santiago  campaign,  in  reporting  to  his  gov- 
ernment, praised  the  American  soldier  as  a 
fighting  unit  because  of  his  "power  of  initia- 
tive"; when  his  officers  were  shot  he  went 
right  on  with  the  battle.  The  Christian  sol- 
diers on  board  the  "Logan"  deserve  the  same 


1 6     The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bob- Land 


commendation,  for  while  spending  the  first 
three  days  out  of  New  York  in  a  manner  best 
treated  with  silence  I  was  searched  out  by  an 
embassy  of  privates  and  urged  to  begin  serv- 
ices between-decks.  When  they  beheld  my 
condition  they  excused  me  from  duty  and 
commenced  song-services  without  my  assist- 
ance. The  second  day  out  brought  us  a  rough 
sea  which  lasted  until  we  sighted  the  Portu- 
guese coast,  and  while  I  was  lying  in  my  bunk 
adjusting  myself  to  the  swaying  of  all  things, 
I  was  immensely  cheered  by  the  sound  of  the 
gospel  songs  carried  by  the  heavy  wind  past 
the  port-hole  above  me. 

On  the  fourth  day  I  was  able  to  crawl  about 
enough  to  confer  with  Post-Chaplain  R.  W. 
Springer,  who  had  been  temporarily  assigned 
to  the  Forty-first  regiment  and  was  en  route  to 
Manila,  and  with  some  of  the  Christian  sol- 
diers as  well,  and  arranged  a  regular  service 
for  the  evening.  The  ship  was  pitching  badly 
and  the  mess-deck,  being  covered  with  iron- 
plates,  was  slippery  with  spray,  but  the  soldiers 
poured  up  from  below  and  we  had  an  enjoy- 
able time,  the  audience  being  limited  only  by 
the  size  of  the  mess-hall.  From  this  time 
Chaplain  Springer,  Colonel  Charles  Bird  (now 
General),  and  myself  constituted  ourselves  a 
committee  of  three  and  conducted  nightly  evan- 
gelistic meetings  and  daily  Bible  classes,  and 


A  Long  Sea  Furrow 


17 


with  most  blessed  results.  Night  after  night 
the  men  would  assemble  in  such  numbers 
that  we  often  found  it  difficult  to  make  our 
way  through  them  to  the  improvised  pulpit. 
The  singing  was  an  inspiration  and  the  men 
listened  to  the  Gospel  as  only  those  can  who 
are  looking  forward  to  danger  and  death. 
When  our  forty-five  days'  journey  was  com- 
pleted some  fifty  men  had  decided  for  the 
Christian  life  and  those  already  Christians 
greatly  developed  and  encouraged.  Ten 
months  later  I  was  riding  through  a  little 
Philippine  village  on  the  line  of  the  Manila 
and  Dagupan  railway  when  a  sentinel  on  duty 
at  the  platform  accosted  me  through  the  win- 
dow and  informed  me  that  a  company  of  my 
old  friends,  the  Forty-first,  were  holding  the 
town.  I  at  once  inquired  concerning  those 
who  had  professed  Christ  on  board  the 
"Logan,"  and  was  rejoiced  to  hear,  that  while 
some  had  fallen,  others  had  given  proof  of  the 
strength  of  their  Redeemer  by  steadfastness  in 
great  temptation. 

A  work  hardly  less  important  than  the 
classes,  entertainments  and  services,  was  the 
distribution  of  supplies.  I  had  succeeded, 
after  a  struggle  with  red  tape  at  the  Brooklyn 
piers,  in  placing  on  board  nearly  seven  tons 
of  reading  matter,  writing  material,  books, 
Testaments,  games  and  other  conveniences. 


1 8     The  Cross  of  Christ  i^i  Bolo-Laiid 


The  monotony  of  the  long  journey  made  the 
demand  for  these  very  great.  Appearing  on 
deck  with  an  armful  of  writing  paper  or  old 
magazines  I  would  be  instantly  mobbed  by  a 
good-natured  crowd  of  blue-coats,  every 
mother's  son  anxious  to  write  a  letter  or  kill 
time  by  a  little  reading.  The  good  people 
who  supplied  these  things  through  the  Army 
Y.  M.  C.  A.  would  certainly  have  rejoiced  to 
see  the  way  in  which  they  were  received. 
The  calm  seas  of  the  latter  part  of  our  trip 
crowded  the  upper  deck  with  every  man  off 
duty  3nd  it  was  pleasant  to  look  down  the 
decks  from  the  bridge  on  a  balmy  day  and  see 
the  men  grouped  about  on  the  deck  poring 
over  papers  and  books,  circled  about  crokinole 
boards,  writing  letters  on  the  "flag-paper"  of 
the  Association,  with  the  deck  as  a  table,  and 
even  reading  their  little  red  Testaments.  The 
generosity  which  had  prompted  Christian 
people  to  provide  these  supplies  was  not  un- 
appreciated by  the  men.  At  the  Christmas 
Eve  entertainment  in  the  Indian  Ocean  one 
feature  was  the  announcing  and  cheering  of 
illustrious  names.  The  Army  and  Navy 
favorites  had  one  by  one  received  a  hearty 
measure,  but  it  was  when  some  humble  private, 
astride  a  boom  high  above  the  crowded 
deck,  shouted  down  the  insinuating  query, 
"What's  the  matter  with  Helen  Gould?"  that 


A  Long  Sea  Furrow  iq 


the  explosion  took  place.  I  was  well  up  in 
the  rigging  myself  and  for  the  first  time  in 
my  life  looked  down  into  the  roaring  crater  of 
a  volcano  of  gratitude.  She  was  not  there  to 
see  the  sight,  but  some  of  us  were  not  at  all 
sure  that  the  echoes  did  not  carry  as  far  as 
Tarrytown-on-the-Hudson. 

Our  Atlantic  experience  of  twelve  days  was 
prevailingly  grey  and  stormy  and  our  first 
sight  of  land — the  Portuguese  coast — was  de- 
cidedly welcome.  We  hardly  saw  more  than 
the  bold  outline  of  Cape  St.  Vincent,  however, 
before  night  came  down  upon  us,  the  follow- 
ing morning  finding  us  close  in  to  the  southern 
coast  of  Spain  and  just  off  the  famous  little 
port  of  Tariffa,  now  hardly  more  than  a  ruin. 
Doubtless,  the  interesting  coast  line  would 
have  held  our  attention  more  closely  had  we 
not  been  straining  our  eyes  ahead  to  catch 
first  sight  of  famous  Gibraltar.  We  were 
gratified  at  eight  o'clock  and  at  ten  were 
anchored  under  the  imposing  face  of  the 
stalwart  "Sentry  of  the  Straits."  No  novice 
eye  can  look  upon  the  fortress  with  indiffer- 
ence. Rising  boldly  into  the  clear  sky  with 
rows  of  meaning  embrazures  dotting  its  steep, 
scarred  slopes,  and  a  heavy  fleet  of  black-and- 
yellow  battle-ships  in  leash  at  its  foot,  no 
recollection  of  its  stirring  history  was  needed 
to    impress   us    with    Gibraltar's  fnormous 


20     The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


strength  and  its  importance  to  British  suprem- 
acy in  the  Mediterranean. 

And  here,  at  the  threshold  of  the  old  world, 
are  traces  of  its  many  civilizations,  past  and 
present.  The  Rock  itself  brought  memories 
of  the  Phoenician  and  Ionian  mariners,  the 
architecture  of  the  old  walls,  the  castle  and 
the  Spanish  town  brought  back  the  days  of 
Roman  and  Moor  and  the  mixture  of  races  in 
the  picturesque  streets  of  the  clambering  town 
gave  types  as  widely  separate  as  Latin  and 
Saxon,  African  and  Persian.  Representatives 
of  Morocco  and  Algiers,  Italy  and  Tunis, 
Egypt  and  Greece  jostled  each  other  in  the 
little  town  of  ten  thousand.  Here,  too,  we 
first  met  the  cosmopolitan  coinage  of  the  old 
world;  we  purchased  bananas  and  oranges  and 
received  in  change  a  suspicious  handful  of 
Spanish  pesetas,  French  francs,  English  shil- 
lings and  Moorish  pennies.  Although  we 
knew  it  not,  at  the  time,  we  held  in  our  hands 
the  key  to  every  Oriental  heart. 

We  drew  out  from  the  massive  fortress  at 
sunset.  The  last  rays  of  light  blazed  the  rock- 
face  into  red  and  orange  and  turned  the  low- 
lying  clouds  on  the  far-away  Atlas  mountains 
into  a  crown  of  misty  gold.  The  anchored 
warships  of  the  Queen  made  ready  to  bid  us  a 
kind  farewell  and  as  we  passed  each  battle- 
ship three  rousing  cheers  came  throbbing  over 


A  Long  Sea  Furrow  21 


the  waters.  We  answered  with  more  hearti- 
ness than  harmony,  sending,  as  was  befitting 
from  a  regiment  drawn  from  twenty  states,  a 
mixture  of  northern  cheer  and  "rebel  yell." 
The  cheers  subsiding,  the  "Star  Spangled 
Banner"  was  answered  by  the  strains  of  "God 
Save  the  Queen,"  and  we  sailed  away  into  the 
dusk  of  the  evening  feeling  glad  that  Anglo- 
Saxon  friendship  had  at  last  triumphed  over  a 
century  of  misunderstanding. 

Between  the  straits  and  Malta  we  sailed  an 
ultra-marine  flood — a  cloudless  sky  above,  a 
deep  blue  sea  below,  and  a  fresh  wind  whiten- 
ing the  wave  tops  into  harmless  plumes  of 
spray.  As  we  passed  the  coast  of  Tunis  the 
classical  scholars  crowded  to  starboard  to  view 
the  long  blue  line  that  in  the  old  days  gave 
evidence  to  mariners  of  their  approach  to  the 
city  of  Dido.  Tales  of  the  long  Punic  duel 
were  revived  and  on  the  sailless  stretch  of 
waters  busy  thought  created  the  contending 
navies  of  Rome  and  Carthage.  We  approached 
Malta  at  night,  quietly  sleeping  our  way  into 
the  coast  which  Paul  had  approached  with  a 
terrified  crew  on  a  sinking  Alexandrian  corn- 
ship.  We  awoke  to  find  ourselves  entering  the 
charming  port  of  Valetta.  Maltese  bumboats 
of  Venetian  shape  crowded  the  great  trans- 
port's sides  and  anxious  fruit  vendors  and 
fruit-hungry  soldiers  were  soon  finding  a  point 


22     The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


of  contact.  The  little  harbor  was  crowded 
with  vessels  from  all  Mediterranean  points. 
Trading  steamers  from  Greece  and  Italy,  Brit- 
ish warships  with  the  never-failing  threat  of  12- 
inch  rifles  protruding  from  their  barbettes, 
sailing  sloops  with  lateen  sails,  reminding  us 
of  the  piratical  craft  of  old  Algiers,  and  non- 
descripts of  many  shapes  and  sizes,  lined  the 
docks  and  quays,  or  lay  at  anchor  in  the  deeper 
water.  Salutes  from  the  shore  batteries  in 
honor  of  an  entering  Russian  cruiser  added  to 
the  interest  of  our  first  hour  in  the  harbor  and 
when  the  heavy  battle-ship  "Rameses,"  flying 
the  cross  of  St.  George,  dressed  ship  in  pass- 
ing us,  our  enthusiasm  was  complete.  We 
cheered  and  voted  Malta  all  right.  Upon 
obtaining  shore-leave  a  party  of  us  imme- 
diately left  by  carriage  for  St.  Paul's  bay,  the 
scene  of  his  shipwreck  while  being  escorted 
by  the  legionaries  to  Rome  for  trial.  We 
gathered  on  the  rocks  to  read  the  graphic  de- 
scription in  the  twenty-seventh  chapter  of 
Acts,  and  then  united  with  Colonel  Bird  in  the 
prayer  that  our  devotion  to  the  cause  of  truth 
might,  in  some  measure,  approach  that  of  the 
one  who,  long  centuries  ago,  counted  not  his 
life  dear  unto  himself  that  he  might  win  the 
approval  of  Christ  the  Lord.  The  ride  from 
Valetta  to  St.  Paul's  Bay  was  full  of  interest: 
The  terraced  gardens,  the  well-kept  roads,  the 


A  Long  Sea  Furrow  23 


Italian  and  Maltese  types  along  the  way  and 
the  towering  cathedrals  all  invited  our  atten- 
tion. The  island  is  almost  destitute  of  timber, 
but  the  Valley  of  the  Magdalene  and  the  many 
terraced  gardens  furnished  the  necessary  green 
to  set  off  the  cream-colored  masonry.  And 
the  gently  sloping  land  everywhere  falling 
away  to  the  sea  is  very  attractive  to  the  eyes 
of  those  who  have  passed  a  number  of  days 
with  the  monotony  of  sea  and  sky  and  lonely 
sail.  The  many  traditions  of  the  Knights  of 
St.  John,  who  from  Charles  the  Fifth  to  Napo- 
leon the  First  occupied  this  island  and  held  the 
Ottoman  empire  in  check  by  desperate  valor, 
largely  center  in  St.  John's  church  and  the 
municipal  palace.  Accustomed  to  the  lofti- 
ness, and  cold  grandeur  of  cathedral  interiors 
some  of  us  were,  but  we  were  not  prepared  for 
the  heavy  splendor  of  the  Cathedral  of  St. 
John,  its  every  flag-stone  the  tomb  of  a  hero 
and  its  many  chapels  enriched  by  gifts  and 
ornaments  from  many  nations.  Beggars  and 
cathedrals  are  not  to  be  separated,  but  we  did 
not  begrudge  running  the  gauntlet  at  the  door 
after  viewing  the  splendid  interior. 

We  were  fortunate  in  having  Colonel  Spence, 
of  the  British  Army,  as  our  escort  through  the 
palace.  The  great  armory  with  its  rows  of 
steel-cased  figures,  its  ancient  culverins  and  its 
priceless  parchments,  relics  of   the  halcyon 


24 


The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


days  of  the  Order,  held  our  chief  interest. 
Banquet  halls  and  art  gallery  and  the  inevi- 
table "Prince  of  Wales'  Room"  (remember  the 
Saxon  is  now  in  the  land)  completed  its 
charms  for  most.  But  a  few  of  us,  worshippers 
of  the  Corsican,  went  to  view  the  humble  room 
where  Napoleon  spent  his  one  stirring  week  at 
Malta.  After  enjoying  the  hospitality  of  the 
Officers'  Club  and  wandering  through  the 
curious  shops  in  search  of  the  famous  Maltese 
lace,  we  returned  to  the  ship  with  much  to  say 
and  considerable  to  exhibit.  The  next  morn- 
ing found  us  again  churning  along  toward 
Manila. 

From  Malta  to  Port  Said  is  a  four  days' 
journey  by  slow  steamer  and  our  first  glimpse 
of  the  land  of  Rameses  and  Cleopatra  was 
given  us  on  the  lOth  day  of  December.  The 
Nile  delta  is  as  flat  as  a  board  and  to  those 
whose  imagination  had  lined  the  northern 
shore  of  Egypt  with  towering  pyramids, 
broken-nosed  sphinxes  and  foaming  cataracts 
the  thin  grey  line  on  the  horizon  was  doubtless 
a  disappointment.  To  add  force  to  the  disil- 
lusioning the  cheap  sheet-iron  buildings  of  Port 
Said  began  to  push  themselves  up  over  the 
horizon.  I  presume  it  would  be  difficult  to 
find  a  more  un-Egyptian  place  than  Port  Said, 
a  "boom  town,"  built  by  the  French  construc- 
tors of  the  Suez  canal  and  fed  by  all  the 


A  Long  Sea  Furrow  25 


wickedness  of  the  land  and  the  vice  of  the 
seas.  Of  course  Egyptian  beggars  throng  the 
tourist  and  eastern  sin  invites  at  every  corner, 
but  this  is  no  distinctive  mark  of  Egypt.  The 
only  satisfactory  thing  about  the  place  was  the 
prevalence  of  the  fez,  a  real  mark  of  later 
Egypt.  The  Turkish  fez  is  tall  and  stiff  and 
looks  much  like  an  inverted  flower-pot  set  on 
the  head  at  a  dangerous  angle.  The  Egyptian 
fez  is  generally  a  brighter  red,  an  easier  shape 
and  adorned  with  a  gayer  tassel.  So  we 
focused  our  kodaks  on  this  small  oasis  of  inter- 
est and  felt  glad  when  we  had  exchanged 
cheers  with  the  Italian,  French  and  English 
warships  and  slipped  gently  by  the  statue  of 
De  Lesseps  into  the  still  waters  of  the  famous 
desert  highway.  As  night  came  on  we  went  to 
the  bow  of  the  vessel  and  felt  the  strange  awe 
of  a  first  night  in  the  desert.  The  ditch  is 
some  eighty  odd  miles  in  length,  cut  from 
north  to  south  across  a  fiat  sandy  plain.  The 
geological  indications  are  all  to  the  effect  that 
the  Mediterranean  and  Indian  oceans  were  at 
one  time  united.  There  are  no  mountains  or 
hills  in  the  direct  line  of  the  canal  which  does 
not  contain  a  lock  along  its  entire  course.  It 
is  quite  narrow — say  a  hundred  to  a  hundred 
and  twenty-five  feet  and  the  "block  system"  is 
a  necessity,  vessels  only  passing  at  some  one 
of  several  stations  at  which  the  canal  is  wid- 


26 


The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


ened.  The  narrowness  of  the  canal  compelled 
the  use  of  our  powerful  searchlight,  for  night 
was  upon  us  as  we  began  to  cut  the  continent. 
A  heavy  fog  made  our  progress  still  more  diffi- 
cult. Until  a  late  hour  we  remained  on  the 
gloomy  deck  watching  the  playing  of  the  glow- 
ing eye  of  the  slowly-mov'ing  steamer  and  the 
mysterious  outline  of  the  embankments  on 
either  side.  To  any  unsophisticated  Ishmaelite 
I  fear  our  appearance  must  have  powerfully 
revived  the  malignant  genii  of  Arabian  lore. 
While  we  slept  that  night  the  ship  crossed  the 
line  of  the  ancient  Syrian  caravan  trail,  over 
which  El  Tob,  king  of  Jerusalem  two  thousand 
years  before  our  era,  dispatched  the  famous 
letters  since  uncovered  at  Tel-el-amarna  and 
now  to  be  read  in  the  British  Museum.  It  was 
over  this  same  route,  too,  that  the  hurrying 
feet  of  Joseph  passed  as  he  carried  the  infant 
Saviour  beyond  the  wrath  of  the  Idumean. 
We  awoke  in  the  morning  to  find  ourselves 
within  the  covers  of  those  volumes  of  Oriental 
travel  and  description  so  often  half  in- 
credulously read.  Stretching  straight  before 
us  was  the  blue  ribbon  of  the  canal,  the  high 
banks  flanking  it  marking  the  tremendous 
labor  of  the  thousands  of  "fellah-heen"  who 
had  died  like  gnats  in  their  enforced  labor  for 
the  world's  commerce.  On  either  side  the 
desert,  a  dun-colored  plain  flattened  out  like  a 


A  Long  Sea  Furrow  27 


map  to  the  sky  line  its  monotonous  surface 
broken  only  by  an  occasional  hummock,  a 
clump  of  palms  about  a  white  stone  building 
or  a  far-away  line  of  moving  black  dots  that 
our  field-glasses  resolved  into  a  trading  cara- 
van. To  the  eye  a  place  that  every  man 
should  shun,  but  to  the  student  the  theater  of 
the  world's  greatest  conflicts,  this  region 
needed  no  tribute  from  the  present  to  loan  it 
interest;  its  past  was  sufficient.  The  un- 
changed desert  about  us  had  presented  the 
same  tanned  face  to  the  hosts  of  Rameses  and 
Sargon,  Alexander  and  Augustus,  Mohammed 
and  Napoleon,  the  Sultan  and  the  Sirdar. 

But  the  present  is  bound  to  intrude  itself. 
The  past  has  to  live  in  such  corners  as  the  pres- 
ent sees  fit  to  give  it.  Soon  certain  black  figures 
appeared  in  our  wake  and  we  forgot  the  per- 
ished hosts  of  vanished  empires.  As  we  were 
moving  but  slowly  the  runncis  were  soon 
abreast  of  us  and  affording  a  great  deal  of 
amusement  by  their  wild  gesticulations  for 
"bak-sheesh."  At  first  sight  we  were  sure  that  it 
was  clothing  they  were  in  crying  need  of  but 
we  soon  found  that  anything  would  be  accept- 
able. An  old  shoe  created  quite  a  sensation 
among  them  and  old  shirts,  coats,  hats  and 
pennies  kept  them  in  our  company  the  greater 
part  of  the  day.  The  friendliness  of  the 
desert  climate  gave  us  an  excellent  opportunity 


28 


The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


to  study  the  anatomy  of  these  racing  sons  of 
the  desert.  We  were  surprised  to  find  such 
excellent  types  of  physical  manhood. 

About  one  o'clock  Ishmailia  appeared  with 
its  red-roofed  hospital  and  the  khedive's  sum- 
mer palace  setting  back  among  the  royal 
palms.  Ishmailia  marks  the  beginning  of  the 
Bitter  Lakes,  through  which  the  canal  takes 
its  course  for  some  miles,  and  with  a  vessel  or 
two  in  its  little  harbor  and  its  grateful  green 
foliage  it  is  no  doubt  a  pleasant  sight  to  weary 
camel  drivers  from  Arabia.  Ishmailia  boasts 
of  a  railroad,  being  on  the  line  of  the  Cairo- 
Suez.  An  important  caravan  trail  here  crosses 
the  canal  and  we  were  so  fortunate  as  to  pass 
several  camel  caravans,  some  camping  on 
the  shore,  others  crossing  on  the  dilapi- 
dated ferry.  We  had  often  heard  of  Eastern 
conservatism  and  were  glad  to  find  we  had  not 
been  misled.  The  squatting  Arabs  sitting 
among  their  kneeling  camels  might  well  have 
been  the  band  of  Ishmaelites  who  sold  unwill- 
ing Joseph  to  Potiphar  of  Pharaoh's  guard. 
The  flowing  garments  and  twisted  turbans,  the 
clear-cut  features  and  proud  and  graceful  bear- 
ing all  told  of  the  pure  Semite,  the  descendants 
of  Hagar,  the  followers  of  the  conquering 
Crescent  and  the  strength  of  the  Mahdi's 
fanatical  kingdom.  We  blessed  the  day  of 
kodaks  as  we  made  this  world  ours  and  passed 


A  Long  Sea  Furrow  29 


on  into  the  broader  water  of  the  Bitter  Lakes, 
feeling  that  we  had,  by  some  magic,  gone  back 
three  thousand  years  in  time  and  taken  our 
cameras  with  us.  The  course  of  the  canal  is 
marked  out  by  buoys  for  some  fifteen  miles  or 
more  through  the  shallow  lakes  and  as  we  left 
Ishmailia  low  on  the  desert  horizon  to  the  rear 
of  us  we  could  look  away  to  the  south  and 
west  and  see  the  rising  bulk  of  what  we  knew 
to  be  old  Mount  Migdol  of  Moses'  time.  We 
were  in  sight  of  this  historic  height  for  some 
seven  hours.  The  careful  Biblical  scholarship 
of  the  world  is  well  agreed  as  to  where  the 
despairing  host  of  Israel  were  given  passage 
though  the  sea.  It  was  under  the  scarred  and 
terraced  side  of  the  frowning  purple  mountain 
in  whose  very  shadow  we  were  slowly  creeping 
at  sunset  that  the  frightened  mob  of  Hebrews 
was  crowded  in  despair. 

The  waters  of  the  Red  Sea  have  slowly 
receded  through  the  centuries  and  the  sullen 
waters  of  Moses'  day  have  given  place  to  an 
absolutely  level  plain  some  six  miles  across, 
stretching  from  the  base  of  Migdol  to  the  dis- 
tant heights  of  Baal-zephon.  To  open  the 
Word  of  God  and  read  its  inspired  account  of 
the  deliverance  of  the  terrified  nation  in  the 
orange  light  of  the  declining  day  upon  the  very 
spot  where  God  was  pleased  to  show  His 
power  was  a  privilege  not  soon  to  pass  from 


30 


The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


memory.  The  famous  old  mountain  was 
ablaze  with  the  radiating  shafts  from  the  set- 
ting sun  and  in  the  south  the  beginnings  of  the 
awful  wilderness  was  softened  into  delicate 
colorings  oi  pink  and  grey  and  purple.  The 
physical  features  of  the  landscape  fit  so  per- 
fectly the  references  in  the  ancient  account 
that  one  marvels  at  the  Providence  which  has 
not  only  given  us  an  Inspired  Message  but  pre- 
served it  from  serious  impair  through  three 
millenniums.  As  the  sun  descended  and  shad- 
ows multiplied  we,  in  our  thought,  turned  the 
twilight  into  dawn,  beheld  the  crossing  Israel- 
ites hurrying  over  the  sand  with  many  a  fearful 
backward  glance  at  the  camp  of  the  hostile 
host,  the  stern  figure  of  Moses  calm  in  a  won- 
derful faith  and  the  pouring  flood  of  returning 
waters  roaring  and  frothing  upon  the  helpless 
pursuers.  A  far-off  caravan  crawling  toward 
Suez  became  to  us  the  terrified  survivors  of  the 
buried  host  hastening  to  Bubastis  with  the  awful 
news. 

But  imagination  has  no  play  with  a  railroad 
train.  The  desecrating  Occidental  has  built 
his  railroad  under  the  flank  of  the  rugged  range 
and  the  whistle  of  a  freight  engine  pulling  a 
long  line  of  dumpy  cars  toward  Ismailia  put  a 
decisive  period  to  our  meditation.  The  West 
is  moving  East;  the  graveyard  of  Pharaoh's 
host  is  desecrated  four  times  a  day  by  the  im- 


A  Long  Sea  Furrow  31 


pertinent  toot  of  a  locomotive;  let  the  student 
of  the  old  East  hasten  his  visit  or  he  may  find 
Cairo  in  a  London  fog  and  Jerusalem's  narrow 
streets  pre-empted  by  a  red-and-yellow  trolley 
line. 

We  ended  our  desert  travel  at  eight  in  the 
evening,  anchoring  off  the  lights  of  Suez  with 
the  waters  of  the  Red  Sea  about  us.  Alas  for 
the  literalists  on  board  who  arose  early  next 
morning  to  view  a  blood-red  tide!  For  the 
Red  Sea  was  as  like  to  the  grey-green  aqua  of 
other  seas  as  it  can  well  be.  Had  it  not  been 
that  we  kept  in  toward  the  Sinaitic  shore  the 
long  trip  through  this  hottest  of  places  would 
have  been  worse  than  monotonous.  The  sail- 
ors endeavored  to  arouse  our  enthusiasm  over 
a  line  of  twelve  wave-splashed  islands  which 
they  pointed  out  triumphantly  as  the  "Twelve 
Apostles,"  but  our  only  day  of  real  sight-see- 
ing was  the  first  of  the  four  that  we  spent  on 
our  way  to  Aden.  The  Sinaitic  shore,  with  its 
sharp  lined  range  clear  cut  in  the  dry  eastern 
atmosphere,  flowed  by  us  for  some  forty  miles 
or  more.  The  most  interesting  peak  to  Jew 
and  Christian  was  hidden  from  our  view  by  the 
larger  mountain  which  rises  to  the  west  of  it. 
At  only  one  spot  on  the  Red  Sea  can  a  glimpse 
of  the  Mount  of  God  be  secured,  but  a  splendid 
idea  of  the  peninsula,  as  a  whole,  can  be 
obtained  at  almost  any  point  off  the  coast. 


32     The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


Without  as  much  as  a  single  shrub  or  stream 
or  hut  in  sight  the  desolate  plain,  slowly  rising 
to  the  base  of  the  rainless  range  behind,  pre- 
sented the  most  abandoned  appearance  con- 
ceivable. To  an  astronomer  a  half-adequate 
idea  of  the  barrenness  and  thirstiness  and 
awfulness  of  Sinai  can  be  suggested  by  the 
appearance  of  the  moon  as  seen  through  a 
powerful  glass.  Towering  peaks,  cracked, 
scarred,  and  wasted,  and  deserted  plains  void 
of  any  sign  of  animal  or  vegetable  life,  pre- 
sented a  landscape  as  withered  and  leathery  as 
the  wizened  mummies  of  Ghizeh.  To  read  the 
wilderness  experiences  of  Israel  with  the  com- 
mentary of  the  awful  desert  fitting  into  the 
narrative  was  to  find  a  vividness  and  reality  in 
the  account  and  an  aptness  in  the  events  never 
before  realized. 

December's  sixteenth  day  brought  up  the 
white  barracks  of  Steamer  Point  above  the 
horizon,  and  a  little  later  the  more  fortunate  of 
us  landed  in  leafless  rocky  Arabia  for  a  drive 
of  four  miles  to  the  ancient  aqueducts  and 
squalid  buildings  of  the  typical  Mohammedan 
town  of  Aden.  Aden  was  old  in  Solomon's 
day  and,  in  spite  of  all  its  squalor,  contains 
many  a  curious  sight.  It  boasts  but  a  single 
sickly  tree,  and  is  surrounded  by  bare  rocky 
ridges.  This  setting  and  the  added  fact  that 
at  the  time  of  our  visit  there  had  been  no  drop 


A  Long  Sea  Furrow  33 


of  rain  for  four  years,  combined  to  make  a  for- 
saken effect.  But  its  bazaars  were  a  joy  to  the 
heart.  Somalis,  Soudanese,  Arabs,  and  every 
shade  (and  tint!)  between,  eddied  in  and  out  of 
the  low  buildings.  We  had  arrived  at  an 
opportune  time — a  winter  festival  being  on. 
The  Ferris  Wheel  in  embryo,  made  of  bamboo 
and  turned  by  hand,  whirled  happy  black  and 
brown  children  into  the  same  ecstasies  as  the 
far-away  American  babies  enjoy  in  their  swings 
and  hammocks.  The  "red-lemonade  man" 
looked  quite  familiar  in  spite  of  his  turban  and 
gown,  and  the  occasional  small-pox  patient 
walking  socially  about  did  not  keep  the  gen- 
eral attention  a  moment  from  the  candies  and 
cakes,  baskets  and  sandals,  trinkets  and  fruits. 
In  all  spaces  not  otherwise  occupied  were  in- 
numerable beggars  ranging  from  two-year-old 
children  to  lepers  old  and  grey.  The  younger 
of  them  even  raced  along  by  our  carriages  and 
tangled  themselves  up  into  knots  of  vocif- 
erous pleading  under  our  feet.  They  coaxed 
many  a  penny  from  "the  rich  Americans." 
The  most  effective  formula  was  to  pat  the 
stomach,  in  dramatic  anguish  and  cry  aloud: 
"No  fadder!  No  mudderl  You  rich!  You  my 
fadder!  Daisy  -  Daisy  -  give  -  me  -  your  -  answer- 
true!  Bak-sheesh!!"  This  exhibition  of  an 
English  education  brought  many  a  harvest  to 
the  fortunate  few  whose  contact  with  traders 


34     The  Cross  of  Ckj'ist  in  Bolo-La7id 


and  soldiers  had  given  them  so  powerful  a  com- 
mand of  Saxon  grammar  and  poesy.  A  friendly 
call  upon  the  dark-skinned  representative  of 
the  British  and  Foreign  Bible  Society — a  con- 
verted Mussulman — and  the  purchase  of  an 
Arabian  Testament,  completed  my  Aden  expe- 
riences. We  re-embarked  in  the  evening,  cum- 
bered with  raw-hide  sandals,  Somali  baskets, 
wicked-looking  date-knives  and  revised  ideas 
of  Arabian  hospitality. 

Twelve  long  days  to  Singapore.  Flying 
fish,  spouting  "fin-backs,"  the  distant  coast  of 
fair  Ceylon,  a  fleet  of  catamarans,  and  the 
shores  of  beautiful  Sumatra  were  the  changing 
interests  of  the  journey.  The  Malacca  Straits 
are  lined  with  swelling  emerald  shores.  With 
the  aid  of  our  glasses  the  native  huts,  clearings 
and  cocoanut  groves  were  all  appropriated. 
Remembering  the  scarcely  past  period  of  Malay 
and  Chinese  piracy,  we  swept  the  horizon  line 
for  rakish  craft,  but  a  clumsy  Italian  gun- 
boat and  the  omnipresent  British  "tramp" 
steamers  (jocularly  known,  for  good  reasons, 
as  "lime  -  juicers")  were  our  only  prizes. 
The  difficulties  of  navigation  at  the  southern 
end  of  the  Strait  were  safely  overcome  and 
after  a  rather  exciting  night's  adventure  with 
gloomy  shores  and  cheering  lights  we  came 
safely  into  the  outer  anchorage  at  Singapore. 
In  order  to  enter  the  city  we  were  compelled 


A  Long  Sea  Furrow 


35 


to  enjoy  two  pleasing  experiences:  a  "sam- 
pan" ride  from  ship  to  shore  and  a  'rickshaw 
ride  from  the  landing  across  the  promontory  to 
the  city.  It  is  unnecessary  to  say  that  a 
jinrikisha  ride  is  the  joy  of  the  Orient.  At 
first  you  are  inclined  to  pity  the  sturdy  coolie 
who  runs  in  the  shafts  before  you  but  soon 
perceiving  the  ease  with  which  he  handles  the 
conveyance  you  resign  yourself  to  pure  enjoy- 
ment and  feel  dangerously  near  to  giggling 
and  crowing. 

At  Singapore  our  most  quaint  pre-concep- 
tions  did  not  suffer.  It  is  both  beautiful  in 
situation  and  pretty  in  itself.  Within  this 
single  city  one  may  live  in  China,  India, 
Malaysia  or  Europe.  The  European  quarter 
is  a  fairy-land  of  spacious  bungalows  half  hid- 
den in  tropical  foliage.  The  business  blocks 
are  of  English  style  and  present  a  good  ap- 
pearance. Chinatown  has  delights  galore. 
After  evening  dinner  at  a  French  hotel  we 
entered  'rickshaws  and  were  rolled  along  the 
dusky  harbor  road  with  a  maze  of  ships'  lights 
glimmering  over  the  water  and  streams  of 
jinrikisha  lamps  pouring  about  like  fire-flies 
among  the  trees  of  the  park.  Joining  a  cur- 
rent of  shining  traffic  a  ride  of  a  few  blocks 
brought  us  to  the  enchanted  land  of  the  Chinese 
quarter.  By  day  this  place  is  drowsy  and  un- 
inviting, but    by   night   it    is  transformed. 


36     The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


Trade  is  largely  carried  on  in  the  streets  and 
as  each  booth  demands  sev'eral  oil-lights  and 
the  streets  are  lined  with  booths,  the  effect  can 
be  imagined.  Between  these  two  banks  of 
stationary  lights  flows  the  moving  stream  of 
carriage  lamps;  and  the  thousands  of  lights, 
showing  up  the  strange  faces  and  figures  of  the 
Celestials,  together  with  the  continual  weaving 
in  and  out  of  the  crowd,  gave  a  light-and- 
shadow  effect  charming  in  the  extreme.  A 
play-house  with  stage  open  to  the  street  col- 
lected a  good  thousand  of  complacent-faced 
Mongols,  all  deeply  interested  in  the  endless 
struttings  and  posturings  of  the  actors.  I 
halted  my  'rickshaw  to  await  the  death  of  the 
villain  but  though  the  sword  came  dangerously 
near  him  numberless  times,  I  was  compelled 
at  last  to  go  away  leaving  him  in  good  health 
and  the  drama  seemingly  no  nearer  an  end 
than  when  it  first  attracted  my  attention. 

While  the  city  of  Singapore  is  outwardly 
beautiful  it  is  not  an  Eden  of  innocence.  A 
long  conference  with  the  sole  American  mis- 
sionary in  the  city,  Mr.  Morgan,  of  the  Metho- 
dist Episcopal  church,  ended  with  a  plea  on 
his  part  for  a  Singapore  branch  of  the  Young 
Men's  Christian  Association.  He  assured  me 
that  the  moral  condition  of  the  European, 
Eurasian  and  native  young  men  of  the  city  was 
appalling.      A    "tiffin"    in    Mr.  Morgan's 


A  Long  Sea  Ftirrow  37 


pleasant  bungalow  with  a  profusion  of  native 
fruits  and  a  cup  of  Anam  tea  was  not  the  least 
of  Singapore's  claims  on  our  remembrance. 
And  never  shall  we  forget  our  first  (and  last) 
experience  with  the  highly-prized  "durian." 
This  fruit  has  a  power  incredible  over  the 
Malay  palate;  we  confess  that  its  effect  upon 
us  was  so  marked  as  to  clear  the  verandahs 
upon  which  it  was  opened,  for  our  delectation. 
The  "durian"  has  the  appearance  of  a  green 
pineapple,  the  odor  of  an  onion  poultice  and  a 
flavor  all  its  own. 

On  the  thirty-first  of  December  the 
"Logan"  turned  the  long  peninsula  of  Indo- 
China  and  the  China  Sea  was  bearing  us  to  our 
final  port;  to  others,  often  a  stormy  body  of 
water,  but  to  us  a  pleasant  and  unruffled 
journey.  Not  treading  headlessly  on  the  tail 
of  a  resentful  typhoon  we  found  the  last  days 
of  voyage  passing  swiftly  away.  The  routine 
work  of  the  ship,  the  morning  drills  and  even- 
ing services,  the  "siestas"  in  the  shade  of  the 
superstructure,  and  the  little  odds  and  ends  of 
life  filled  the  time,  from  the  bugler's  morning 
complaint  to  his  evening  lament. 

Four  days  out  of  Singapore  and  we  picked 
up  an  interesting  grey  daub  on  the  horizon — a 
group  of  sentinel  islands  thrown  out  from  the 
main  bulk  of  Luzon  and  the  first  sight  of 
American  (!)  soil  since  losing  the  Jersey  high- 


38     The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


lands.  A  few  hours  more  lifted  the  mountains 
of  the  mainland  above  the  sky-line  and  famous 
Corregidor  appeared  as  a  blue  dot  directly 
over  our  bows.  The  entrance  to  Manila  Bay 
is  a  scene  of  great  impressiveness.  Few  of  the 
hundreds  who  crowded  the  guard  rails  of  the 
"Logan"  as  she  cut  between  Corregidor  and 
Mount  Mariveles  will  forget  the  beauty  of  the 
hour.  The  sun  was  dipping  to  the  sea  at  the 
time  and  the  broad  channel  was  swept  with  its 
last  glory.  Lights  and  shadows  were  contend- 
ing for  mastery  along  the  shores,  the  islands 
farther  out  in  the  sunset  were  purple  patterns 
in  a  sea  of  gold,  and  above  the  white  buildings 
of  the  Convalescent  Hospital  on  Corregidor  a 
familiar  piece  of  bunting  fluttered  in  the  warm 
light,  the  magnet  which  had  drawn  us  thirteen 
thousand  miles  from  those  we  loved. 

As  we  turned  the  shoulder  of  the  island  and 
placed  it  between  us  and  the  now  crimsoning 
west  the  buglers  swung  into  the  rythm  of 
"Retreat,"  and  with  the  flag-staff  on  Cor- 
regidor bare  and  black  against  the  sky  and  our 
own  ensign  slipping  down  the  halyard  to  the 
deck  the  regimental  band  sent  out  the  throb- 
bing query  to  the  shadows  of  the  bay: 

"O  say  can  you  see  by  the  dawn's  early  light 
What  so  proudly  we  saw  in  the  twilight's  last 
gleaming?" 

The  glory  soon  departed  but  the  stars  came 


A  Lon^  Sea  Ftirrow 


39 


out  as  we  steamed  in  the  twilight  across  the 
wide  expanse  of  the  noble  bay  and  when  our 
anchor  chains  rattled  out  at  half  after  seven, 
and  we  swung  with  the  tide  off  Manila,  a  maze 
of  winking  lights  twinkling  against  the  dark- 
ness of  the  land-mass  eastward,  told  us  that  our 
journey  was  done,  our  last  port  made,  the  time 
of  sight-seeing  over  and  the  time  of  dangerous 
activity  at  hand.  The  last  link  was  a  launch 
from  headquarters  which  shot  out  of  the  gloom 
and  ran  alongside  the  gangway  at  eight 
o'clock.  The  boarding  officer  brought  dis- 
patches for  the  C.  O.  and  general  news  for  us 
all — the  war  was  still  on,  Aguinaldo  still  at 
large,  important  movements  even  then  going 
on  in  the  "south-lines"  and  anticipated  gen- 
eral activity.  We  passed  the  gap  between 
supper  and  bed  leaning  on  the  starboard  rail 
and  staring  over  at  the  city  lights,  conversing 
in  the  subdued  tone  of  men  who  feel  the  game 
of  death  at  hand.  Then  the  little  bugler 
stepped  out  of  the  guard-room,  brought  his 
body  to  "Attention,"  raised  his  instrument  to 
his  lips  and  gave  the  long,  plaintive,  brazen 
"Good-night"  call,  and  as  four  bells  tinkled 
from  the  bridge  we  turned  in  to  dream  of  the 
unknown  future. 


II 


ANILA  at  last.  And  dull  must  be 
the  voyager  who  fails  to  be 
impressed,  not  with  the  city 
itself,  but  its  magnificent  set- 
ting. The  frame  is  more 
imposing  than  the  picture. 
Our  morning  view  from  the 
deck  of  the  "Logan"  showed 
us  to  be  riding  at  anchor  some 
two  miles  off  the  city-front  in 
company  with  a  large  fleet  of 
transports  and  tramp-steamers, 
among  which  already  bustling 
little  launches  were  threading  in  and  out— some 
with  huge  native  "cascos"  in  tow.  But  the 
fleet  and  the  glimpses  of  the  city  could  not 
hold  our  first  attention.  Back  over  the  bay, 
twenty  six  miles  to  the  west,  bold  Corregidor 
had  dwindled  to  a  point  and  resembled,  in  the 
distance,  nothing  more  glorious  than  a  threat- 
ened fish  escaping  from  the  mountainous  jaws 
of  the  blue  promontories  to  the  north  and 
south.  From  the  triple-peak  of  the  Cavite 
range  on  the  south  of  the  entrance  the  circle 
of  the  shore  swept  grandly  around  to  the  city, 
its  distant  blues  changing  to  warm  sun-lit 
40 


Manila  and  Iloilo  41 


greens  opposite  us,  and  with  occasional  white 
dots  punctuating  the  shore-line,  marking  the 
stone  church  towers  of  clustering  pueblos.  At 
Manila  itself  the  country  flattened  out  into  a 
monotonous  level  but  some  miles  back  of  the 
city  rose  several  beautiful  peaks.  Turning  to 
the  north  the  shore-line  disappeared  altogether 
beneath  the  curvature  of  the  surface  of  the  bay, 
and  seeming  to  stand  directly  out  of  the  water 
while,  in  reality,  far  up  in  the  Rio  Grande 
valley,  the  peculiar  sugar-loaf  bulk  of  Arayat 
challenged  admiration.  To  the  west  of  Arayat 
the  shore-line  reappeared  in  the  Zambales 
range,  flowing  in  rocky  waves  against  the  sky, 
which,  finally  closing  down  on  the  bay,  formed 
the  northern  jaw  of  the  harbor  entrance  and 
terminated  near  Corregidor  in  the  graceful 
peak  of  Mariveles,  behind  which  the  Manilans 
daily  see  their  gorgeous  evening  skies. 

In  such  a  vast  arena  the  greatest  metropolis 
of  the  world  could  not  dominate  the  scene. 
A  dozen  cities  might  stretch  along  the  beach 
and  stretch  their  fingers  of  masonry  and  smoke 
into  the  air  and  yet  hardly  arrest  the  sweep  of 
the  casual  glance.  Towers,  elevators  and  sky- 
scrapers are  all  forbidden  here  by  the  frequent 
earth-shocks,  and  Manila,  limited  to  two-story 
dwellings,  and  spread  out  along  the  vast  rim 
of  the  Bay,  cannot  raise  itself  into  either  grace 
or  dignity. 


42     The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


However,  our  chief  interest  soon  led  us  to 
study  out  the  long  brown  line  of  Old  Manila 
with  the  convents,  monasteries  and  churches 
lining  its  ancient  wall,  and  continuing  it  on 
the  left,  the  long  rows  of  iron  roofed  ware- 
houses marking  the  modern  business  suburb  of 
Binondo,  and  still  father  along  the  shore  the 
native  quarter  of  Tondo,  its  large  white  church 
alone  breaking  the  monotonous  line  of  yellow- 
brown  bamboo  houses.  To  the  right  of  the 
walled  city  the  famous  Luneta,  or  pleasure 
ground,  occupied  the  shore  and  beyond  it  we 
had  glimpses  of  the  tree-hidden  suburbs  of 
Malate  and  Ermita. 

My  instructions  were  to  report  to  Mr.  Glunz 
at  the  headquarters  of  the  Army  and  Navy 
Y.  M.  C.  A.,  and  after  the  quarantine  and 
customs  officers  had  approved  of  us  I  boarded 
the  Q.  M.  D.  launch  at  the  side  and  was  car- 
ried up  the  famous  Pasig  between  the  grim 
walls  of  the  old  and  the  bustling  docks  of  the 
new  city,  and  landed  in  front  of  the  large  ware- 
house occupied  as  a  headquarters  by  the 
Quartermaster's  Department.  It  is  needless  to 
say  that  my  first  impression  of  Manila  street 
life  was  very  confused.  My  walk  from  the 
wharf  through  Binondo's  crooked  ways  across 
the  Bridge  of  Spain  to  the  old  Spanish  bar- 
racks assigned  by  the  Government  to  the  Army 
Young  Men's  Christian  Association,  flashed  too 


Manila  and  Iloilo  43 


many  impressions  in  my  mind  to  produce  a 
clear  negative.  Creaking  bull-carts,  "carro- 
mattas"  and  "calesas"  drawn  by  ragged  little 
ponies,  huge  army-wagons  with  double  mule 
teams,  clumsy  two-wheeled  drays  dragged 
along  by  slate-colored  water-buffaloes,  all 
rattled  and  clattered  over  the  cobble-stones 
and  disputed  the  way  with  the  most  dilapi- 
dated single-track  horse-car  line  I  shall  ever 
behold.  We  afterward,  for  serious  reasons, 
labeled  these  trams  "dhobie-itch  cars."  On, 
in  and  among  these  conveyances  was  a  weav- 
ing mass  of  little  brown  Filipinos  in  straw  hats 
and  soiled  white  clothes,  Chinese  coolies  in 
blue  clouts,  black-moustached  Spaniards,  hel- 
meted  Europeans  and  American  soldiers  in 
campaign  hats  and  khaki;  all  this  framed  in  by 
rows  of  two-story  shops  and  dwellings,  stone 
below,  wood  above  and  roofed  with  tiles  or 
corrugated  iron.  In  addition  odors  of  many 
kinds  as  yet  unclassified  and  a  liberal  sprinkling 
everywhere  of  brown  urchins  and  yellow  dogs. 
So  shall  I  remember  Binondo,  the  New  Manila. 
For  a  sober  view  of  it  and  the  entire  city  the 
best  idea  obtainable  can  be  secured  by  reading 
Dr.  Lala's  chapter  "Manila,"  in  his  work 
"The  Philippine  Islands,"  and  mixing  in  a 
little  flavor  of  Major  Younghusband's  descrip- 
tion in  "The  Philippines  and  Roundabout."  I 
shall  attempt  a  further  descriptive  word  later  on. 


44 


The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


Upon  reaching  our  headquarters,  an  old 
Spanish  barracks  known  as  the  "Cuartel  For- 
tin,"  I  was  heartily  greeted  by  Messrs.  Glunz 
and  Jackson,  the  veterans  of  the  Army  Asso- 
ciation in  the  Philippines.  These  two  men 
had  sailed  from  San  Francisco  in  the  sum- 
mer of  i8g8,  landing  at  Camp  Dewey  before 
the  city  of  Manila  capitulated,  and  entering  the 
city  with  the  troops  after  the  engagement  of 
August  13th.  To  them  belongs  the  honor  of 
conducting  the  first  public  Protestant  services 
ever  held  in  the  city  of  Manila,  under  the  can- 
vas of  a  large  tent  hastily  erected  at  the  south- 
ern end  of  the  Puente  de  Espana,  just  without 
the  walled  city.  This  continued  to  be  their 
headquarters  until  the  outbreak  of  the  Filipino 
insurrection  in  February,  1899.  During  the 
fierce  fighting  about  the  city  these  two  brethren 
were  compelled  to  discontinue  their  services, 
every  man  being  needed  on  the  "firing-line." 
They  met  this  condition  by  visiting  the 
trenches,  distributing  stationery,  reading  mat- 
ter and  Testaments,  and  doing  personal  work. 
At  last  the  tent,  rotted  by  the  exposure, ]was 
destroyed  by  a  typhoon,  and  the  chief  quarter- 
master of  the  Eighth  Army  Corps,  recognizing 
their  invaluable  work,  turned  over  to  them  a 
partially  demolished  barracks,  formerly  occu- 
pied by  Spanish  infantry.  By  a  great  deal  of 
hard  work  this  long,  low  building  was  fitted 


Manila  and  Iloilo 


45 


up  with  office,  reading-room,  correspondence 
room,  game  room,  auditorium,  baths  and  dor- 
mitory. It  proved  a  God-send  to  the  troops 
in  and  around  Manila  and  fairly  swarmed  with 
soldier  life.  It  made  an  excellent  temporary 
heardquarters  for  the  Association  for  some  ten 
months.  The  heroic  work  of  these  two  quiet 
Californians  cannot  be  too  highly  commended. 

Beside  Mr.  Glunz  and  Mr.  Jackson  I  also 
found  at  the  "Cuartel  Fortin"  Messrs.  Carlisle, 
Phipps,  and  Hunter,  who  had  arrived  in  the 
islands  but  a  few  days  before  myself,  having 
accompanied  transports  from  San  Francisco 
and  New  York.  Mr.  Gloeckner,  who  had 
sailed  with  the  Forty-fourth  Regiment  from  San 
Francisco  on  the  same  day  I  left  New  York  had 
not  stopped  at  Manila  but  passed  through  the 
group  to  Cebu,  landing  on  that  island  with  the 
regiment  he  had  accompanied.  These  seven 
names  composed  our  entire  force,  and  we  began 
at  once  our  first  task,  a  survey  and  division  of 
the  field.  The  problem  before  us  was  not  a 
simple  one.  How  could  seven  men  so  dis- 
tribute themselves  as  to  best  attempt  the  reach- 
ing of  60,000  soldiers  scattered  in  small 
detachments  through  some  three  hundred 
towns  and  hamlets  over  eight  large  islands, 
only  connected  with  each  other  by  a  few 
delapidated  coasters  by  sea  and  the  most 
primitive  of  roads  and  trails  by  land.    It  must 


46     The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


be  remembered  that  the  Army  of  the  Philip- 
pines, during  1900,  was  doing  police  duty  and 
but  little  campaigning.  The  organized  troops 
of  the  so-called  Filipino  Republic  had  been  de- 
feated and  scattered  and,  with  the  exception  of 
southern  Luzon,  and  the  mountainous  districts 
of  other  islands,  no  insurgent  force  of  impor- 
tance remained  to  strike  at.  The  breaking-up 
of  the  larger  bodies  of  insurgents,  however, 
aggravated  matters  by  producing  a  great  num- 
ber of  guerilla  bands,  numbering  from  a  dozen 
rifles  to  a  hundred.  In  order  to  control  this 
situation  the  American  troops  were  compelled 
to  occupy  all  the  more  important  native  towns, 
thus  forming  a  vast  network  of  posts,  many  of 
them  almost  inaccessible  to  supply  trains. 
The  garrisons  in  these  posts  were  necessarily 
small,  numbering  from  a  couple  of  companies 
or  a  battalion  at  provincial  capitals,  down  to  a 
single  platoon,  in  small  "barrios." 

In  taking  this  whole  problem  to  ourselves 
we  did  not  ignore  the  fact  that  several  chap- 
lains were  already  in  the  islands.  But  they 
were  so  few  as  to  be  practically  lost  to  view 
and  so  poorly  equipped  with  supplies,  the  gov- 
ernment furnishing  them  none,  that  even  their 
best  efforts  were  handicapped.  There  were,  I 
think,  in  January,  1900,  but  three  chaplains  in 
the  islands  outside  of  Luzon.  Of  those  on 
Luzon  I  believe  four  were  at  Manila  alone  and 


Manila  and  Iloilo  47 


only  two  were  working  among  the  small  garri- 
sons and  in  the  field.  Looked  at  from  the 
Christian  standpoint,  here  were  sixty  odd 
thousand  young  men,  the  bulk  of  them  of  an 
age  when  their  army  experience  was  to  make 
them  or  break  them  for  life.  The  prospect  of 
foreign  adventure  and  actual  fighting  had 
raised  the  level  of  enlistments  and  many  had 
turned  from  home,  business,  and  even  college, 
to  serve  with  the  colors.  But  the  excitement 
of  campaigning  was  dying  out.  Tiresome 
patrolling  and  scouting,  and  monotonous  bar- 
rack life  remained.  Their  time  was  to  be  spent 
in  isolated  garrisons,  in  wretched  native  vil- 
lages with  scorching  weather  and  awful 
monotony,  driving  them  to  the  deadly  native 
drinks  and  vicious  native  habits.  In  the  interior 
posts  there  was  nothing  to  read,  nothing  to  drink 
but  the  insipid  "boiled-water,"  not  a  white 
woman's  fair  face  and  purifying  presence 
within  leagues  and  not  one  minister  of  the 
Gospel  to  five  thousand  men.  Take  an  Ameri- 
can town,  remove  its  churches,  schools  and 
amusements,  turn  the  place  into  a  waste  of 
bamboo  shacks  on  crooked  dirty  streets  filled 
with  an  alien  population  of  strange  habit  and 
tongue,  unleash  the  drinking  places,  turn  on 
the  relentless  tropic  heat  and  then  you  have 
something  akin  to  garrison  life  in  the  Philip- 
pine villages. 


48     The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


After  prayerful  conference  it  was  decided 
to  leave  the  important  work  centering  in 
Manila  in  the  hands  of  Messrs.  Glunz  and 
Jackson — Hunter  to  begin  work  with  the  sail- 
ors and  marines  at  Cavite,  Phipps  to  make 
his  headquarters  at  Aparri  in  the  extreme 
northern  tip  of  Luzon,  Carlisle  to  open  up  work 
at  Dagupan  at  the  northern  end  of  the  Manila 
&  Dagupan  Railway,  Gloeckner  to  remain  at 
Cebu,  and  I  to  have  for  my  bishopric  the  Island 
of  Panay  with  Iloilo  as  a  headquarters.  Such 
supplies  as  were  on  hand  were  divided  between 
us.  I  immediately  made  preparations  for 
leaving  Manila,  purchasing  an  "outfit"  and 
securing  transportation  from  Colonel  Miller, 
the  chief  quartermaster.  My  transport,  how- 
ever, was  not  to  sail  until  the  9th  and  the  inter- 
val was  pleasantly  spent  in  adjusting  myself  to 
my  new  life,  and  in  meeting  the  friends  of  Mr. 
Glunz's  circle.  Among  these  was  the  Rev. 
James  B.  Rodgers,  of  the  American  Presby- 
terian Church. 

Already  Christian  missions  flourished  in 
Manila.  To  Mr.  Rodgers  belongs  the  honor 
of  being  the  first  regularly  appointed  mission- 
ary to  the  Islands.  His  eleven  years'  expe- 
rience as  a  missionary  of  the  Presbyterian 
Board  in  Brazil,  added  to  his  natural  abilities 
and  spiritual  grace  combined  to  fit  him  for  his 
responsible  and  delicate  position.    There  is  no 


Manila  and  Iloilo  49 


harm  now  in  saying  that  the  American  mili- 
tary government  was,  at  the  time  of  Mr. 
Rodgers'  arrival,  none  too  cordial  toward  the 
idea  of  Protestant  missions.  The  general  in 
command  assumed  that  to  start  a  religious 
controversy  in  addition  to  the  troubles'already 
on  hand  would  array  the  natives  even  more  bit- 
terly against  American  supremacy.  Believing 
that  the  Catholic  church  was  the  strength  of 
the  insurrection  and  its  chief  support  derived 
from  the  encouragement  of  the  native  padres, 
it  was  the  policy  of  the  military  governor  for 
a  period  at  least,  to'reassure  and  conciliate  the 
church  in  all  honorable  ways.  It  was  this  pur- 
pose which  led  General  Otis  to  send  his  own 
launch  out  into  the  bay  to  meet  the  transport 
upon  which  Archbishop  Chapelle,  the  accre- 
dited agent  of  the  Pope,  arrived.  This  act  of 
courtesy  was  widely  discussed  among  the 
natives,  and  was  misunderstood  by  them  to 
mean  that  the  American  Government  was  in 
sympathy  with  the  hated  friars,  whom  they 
were  clamoring  to  be  rid  of.  This  erroneous 
impression  was  strengthened  by  the  appearance 
of  General  Otis  at  the  reception  given  the 
Archbishop  by  the  Spanish  and  Filipino 
clergy.  As  he  had  refused  all  social  functions 
for  some  weeks  his  presence  was  given  the 
more  significance.  These  two  incidents  of  the 
launch  and  the  reception  would  not  be  worth 


50     The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


the  chronicling  were  it  not  for  the  importance 
given  them  by  the  native  mind.  Even  some 
Americans  thought  themselves  compelled  to 
seek  the  reason  for  the  over-friendly  attitude 
maintained  by  the  military  governor  toward 
the  Catholic  church  in  his  oivn  conversion  to 
Rome.  There  appears  to  be  no  foundation 
for  such  an  opinion  other  than  the  appearance 
of  the  name  of  Col.  E.  S.  Otis  in  the  list  of 
"Prominent  Converts  to  Catholicism"  in  the 
appendix  of  the  fifth  edition  of  "Catholic  and 
Protestant  Countries  Compared."  Certain  it 
is  that  for  political  or  other  reasons  Mr. 
Rodgers  was  little  more  than  tolerated  in 
Manila  when  he  first  arrived.  No  governor- 
general's  launch  took  him  in  honor  from  ship 
to  shore,  and  it  is  safe  to  say  that  an  in- 
discretion on  his  part  would  have  resulted  in 
his  deportation  and  a  serious  postponement  of 
missionary  activity.  By  his  unfailing  tact  he 
was  able  to  open  services  and  awaken  a  de- 
cided interest  among  the  natives  without  giv- 
ing the  authorities  an  excuse  for  interference. 
Thus,  in  January,  1900,  with  the  assistance  of 
his  recently-arrived  colleague,  Mr.  Hibbard, 
ser\Mces  for  Filipinos  were  being  conducted 
weekly  in  Binondo  and  Ermita  and  an  English 
service  maintained  as  well.  The  most  loyal 
native  supporter  of  this  work  was  Senor 
Zamora.    a    prominent    Filipino    who  had 


Manila  and  Iloilo  51 


befriended  Castells  and  the  martyr  Llave  dur- 
ing their  brief  work  in  the  Islands  under  the 
Spanish  regime.  In  addition  to  this  Presby- 
terian work  a  Christian  business  man,  Mr. 
Prautch,  with  the  assistance  of  Zamora's 
bright  young  son,  Nicholas,  was  conducting 
services  which  afterward  developed  into  the 
Methodist  Mission.  To  reinforce  these 
centers  of  gospel  light  both  the  British  and 
Foreign  and  the  American  Bible  Societies 
were  at  work  in  the  city,  the  former  under  the 
charge  of  the  Rev.  H.  F.  Miller  and  the  second 
under  the  supervision  of  the  Rev.  J.  C.  Good- 
rich. I  understood  from  these  brethren  that 
many  doors  were  opening  for  the  sale  of  gos- 
pels and  Bibles  both  among  natives  and  sol- 
diers. In  addition  to  the  work  conducted 
among  the  troops  by  the  Army  Association  at 
the  Cuartel  Fortin  and  in  the  hospitals  and 
barracks,  a  so-called  Anglo-American  Church 
(Epis)  had  been  organized  by  Chaplain  Pierce, 
U.  S.  A.,  with  a  weekly  service  for  officers  and 
men  in  the  walled  city.  A  social  and  reli- 
gious work  was  also  being  carried  on  for  the 
troops  in  Ermita  by  a  representative  of  the 
Brotherhood  of  Andrew  and  Philip.  These 
agencies,  with  the  handful  of  chaplains  and 
Y.  M.  C.  A.  secretaries  composed  the  organized 
Christian  activity  of  the  Archipelago  in  Jan- 
uary, 1900. 


52     The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


As  I  was  to  sail  on  Monday,  the  gth,  for 
Iloilo  a  farewell  service  was  arranged  with 
Chaplain  Springer  and  the  Forty-first  Regiment 
on  Sunday.  I  found  the  men  disembarked  and 
quartered  in  the  "Nipa  Barracks"  at  the  edge 
of  the  city,  very  novel  and  welcome  quarters 
after  the  cramping  of  a  forty-five  days'  journey 
by  sea.  While  we  sang  our  hymns  and  prayed, 
we  were  accompanied  by  the  noise  of  artillery 
firing  several  miles  to  the  south.  We  after- 
ward heard  that  an  engagement  had  taken 
place  near  Paranaque. 

On  the  morning  of  the  gth  I  went  on  board 
the  U.  S.  A.  T.  "Warren,"  accompanied  by 
Mr.  Rodgers  who  had  determined  to  tour  the 
southern  islands  of  the  group  and  decide  upon 
a  strategic  point  for  a  second  mission  center, 
and  soon  passed  a  second  time  through  the 
Corregidor  Straits.  With  perhaps  the  excep- 
tion of  a  trip  through  the  Inland  Sea  of 
Japan  no  more  attractive  waters  tempt  the 
tourist  than  the  great  canals  which  separate  the 
thousand  islands  of  the  Philippine  group.  The 
passage  from  Manila  and  Iloilo  may  be  made 
either  by  way  of  Romblon  and  the  eastern 
coast  of  Panay  or  along  the  eastern  shore  of 
Mindoro  and  the  west  and  south  of  Panay. 
The  latter  was  our  course.  Mindoro  is  the 
island  of  mystery,  being  avoided  by  Europeans 
because  of  its  dreaded  fevers.   Its  population  is 


Manila  and  Iloilo  53 


sparse  and  no  American  troops  were  stationed 
on  it  at  the  time  of  our  passing.  Its  suggestiv^e 
name,  "The  Mine  of  Gold,"  added  to  the  allur- 
ing beauty  of  its  cloud-wrapped  range.  So  far 
as  I  am  aware  Dean  Worcester's  hunting  trip 
after  "timarau"  represents  the  most  extended 
experience  of  an  American  on  the  island.  In 
passing  and  repassing  Mindoro  subsequently  I 
noticed  that  at  sundown  it  was  always  glorified 
by  a  covering  of  heavy  mist,  for  its  high  moun- 
tains act  as  a  curtain  to  the  west  winds  which 
pile  up  clouds  of  mist  against  its  western  face 
until  they  rise  above  the  summit  of  the  range, 
pour  through  the  defiles,  and  lap  around  the 
peaks,  moulded  into  wreaths  and  crowns  by 
the  breath  of  the  monsoon.  Many  smaller 
islands  dot  the  sea  of  Mindoro  and  kept  our 
interest  alive  until  we  sighted  the  Antique 
Mountains  of  Panay's  western  coast,  and  they 
flowed  by  in  constant  panorama  until  we  made 
our  port.  The  second  route  from  Manila  to 
Iloilo  is  even  more  interesting,  including  as 
it  does  extended  views  of  southern  Luzon, 
Samar,  Masbate,  Tayabas,  Romblon,  Negros 
and  Panay. 

We  arrived  in  the  Straits  of  Iloilo,  between 
Guimaras  and  Panay,  on  the  eleventh  and 
landed  the  following  day.  Colonel  Bird 
kindly  introduced  me  to  General  R.  P.  Hughes, 
commanding  the  Department  of  the  Visayas. 


54     The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


The  General  was  very  pleasant,  expressing 
himself  pleased  that  at  last  Panay  was  to  have 
religious  services  and  assured  me  of  his  sym- 
pathy. As  to  providing  me  with  a  building  in 
which  to  open  up  our  work  in  accordance  with 
the  circular  letter  of  the  War  Department,*  he 
assured  me  that  it  was  out  of  the  question  as 
the  town  had  been  well-nigh  destroyed  by  the 
insurgents  upon  evacuating  and  such  buildings 
left  standing  as  were  suitable  for  government 
use  were  all  occupied,  some  being  rented  at 
high  figures  in  order  to  obtain  sufficient  accom- 
modation for  headquarters,  department  offices 
and  officers'  quarters.  This  I  found  to  be  true. 
Iloilo,  although  the  second  city  of  importance 

*"The  Secretary  of  War  directs  that  permission 
be  granted  to  the  International  Committee  of  the  Young 
Men's  Christian  Associations  to  establish  their  work 
among  the  regular  and  volunteer  soldiers  of  the  vari- 
ous posts  and  camps  of  the  Army  in  the  United  States, 
Cuba,  Porto  Rico  and  the  Philippine  Islands,  and  com- 
manding ofificers  are  enjoined  to  facilitate  the  efforts  of 
this  committee  to  provide  helpful  social  and  unsectarian 
religious  influences  by  providing  such  suitable  quarters 
as  are  available ;  the  privileges  thus  granted  to  be  subject 
to  the  control  of  commanding  officers,  so  as  not  to  inter- 
fere with  military  operations." 

By  order  of  the  Secretary  of  War 
(Signed)    H.  C.  Corbin, 
War  Department,  Adjutant  General, 

Adjutant  General's  Office, 
Washington,  Oct.  19,  1899." 


Manila  and  Iloilo  55 


in  the  Islands  on  account  of  it  being  the  port 
of  entry  for  Negrcs  sugar,  Cebu  hemp  and 
Panay  rice,  could  only  boast  of  a  population  of 
ten  thousand.  The  town,  for  it  does  not 
deserve  the  name  of  city,  stretches  along  a  flat 
sandy  point  between  the  Jaro  River  and  the 
Strait  of  Iloilo.  The  insurgents  had  occupied 
the  town  for  some  time  and  only  withdrew, 
when  the  place  was  bombarded  by  an  Amer- 
ican fleet,  after  firing  the  larger  part  of  the 
houses  and  shops.  In  consequence  of  this 
wanton  destruction  Ilcilo  presented  a  very 
mournful  appearance  when  I  first  walked  along 
its  streets.  The  corrugated  iron  roofing  of  the 
ruined  stores  and  warehouses,  blackened  by 
the  flames  and  rusted  by  the  rains,  had  been 
appropriated  quite  generally  for  repair  pur- 
poses. Smoke-stained  stone  walls  temporarily 
roofed  with  this  discolored  sheeting  everywhere 
met  the  eye.  I  easily  verified  the  General's 
statement  as  to  the  utter  lack  of  a  building 
suitable  for  our  use  and  my  first  religious  serv- 
ice was  of  necessity  held  in  the  open  air  on 
the  little  "plaza"  in  front  of  the  Catholic 
Church.  There  were  present  some  200  soldiers 
out  of  a  garrison  of  not  more  than  400  and 
beyond  them,  listening  to  the  hymns  and 
address,  stood  a  thick  fringe  of  curious  Filipinos 
who  were  for  the  first  time  witnessing  the  out- 
ward manifestation  of  the  American's  religion. 


56     The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


On  the  Island  of  Panay  were  three  regiments 
of  infantry,  a  battery  of  light  artillery,  three 
hundred  patients  in  the  Brigade  Hospital  at 
Iloilo,  seventy  military  prisoners  confined  at 
the  old  stone  fort  on  the  point  and  a  detach- 
ment of  mounted  scouts  beside  an  uncertain 
number  of  clerks,  teamsters,  and  other  civilians. 
In  all  not  far  from  4,000  young  American  men 
without  a  single  chaplain  or  Christian  worker 
among  them  other  than  myself.  My  little 
open-air  service,  held  on  Sunday  evening,  the 
14th  of  January,  was  the  first  service  enjoyed 
by  the  attending  troops  since  leaving  America 
eight  months  before. 

On  the  19th  I  was  able  through  the  courtesy 
of  the  major  in  charge  of  the  Brigade  Hospital 
to  erect  a  borrowed  hospital  tent  on  a  vacant 
lot  near  the  Convalescent  Ward  and  fit  it  np 
with  my  supplies  as  a  reading  and  social  room 
for  the  men  off  duty  from  the  barracks  and 
convalescent  from  the  hospital.  It  was 
instantly  appreciated  by  the  soldiers,  the  place 
being  crowded  even  in  the  hottest  hours  of  the 
day.  My  arrival  developed  the  presence  of  a 
number  of  Christian  soldiers  who  at  once 
co-operated  with  me  in  the  organizing  of  the 
work.  It  soon  seemed  best,  considering  the 
large  attendance  at  the  tent,  to  conduct  a  series 
of  evangelistic  services.  Night  after  night  the 
men  gathered  under  the  canvas  and  sang  by 


Manila  and  Iloilo  57 


the  light  of  a  few  candles  stuck  about  on  the 
tables  and  benches.  Beside  definite  decisions 
for  the  Christian  life  these  services  cheered  the 
sick  fellows  lying  on  their  cots  in  the  hospital 
just  opposite,  the  songs  reaching  the  ears  of 
many  who  were  unable  to  leave  their  wards. 
At  the  time  of  my  arrival  in  Iloilo  typhoid 
fever  and  dysentery  were  claiming  many  vic- 
tims, especially  among  the  men  who  indulged 
carelessly  in  the  native  liquors.  Although  the 
funerals  were  usually  under  the  charge  of  the 
Adjutant  of  the  Provost  Guard,  I  was  occasion- 
ally called  upon  to  read  the  burial  service  over 
the  remains  of  some  poor  lad  in  the  desolate 
cemetery  at  the  edge  of  town.  Sometimes 
the  band  of  the  Twenty-sixth  Regiment  headed 
the  cortege  but  more  often  an  officer,  a  firing 
squad,  a  bugler,  and  a  few  curious  natives 
made  up  the  pomp  of  the  occasion.  The  funer- 
al procession  usually  formed  at  the  hospital 
— why,  I  do  not  know — and  the  sick  men  in 
the  wards  had  the  gloomy  privilege  of  listen- 
ing to  the  sad  slow  strains  of  the  musicians  or 
witnessing  the  scant  ceremony  with  which 
many  a  comrade  was  buried  in  the  tropics. 
There  was  a  great  deal  of  room  for  Christian 
cheer,  naturally,  among  the  patients.  Five 
female  nurses  had  recently  arrived  from  Manila 
and  to  them  belongs  no  end  of  credit  for  their 
work  in  the  wards.    The  chief  nurse,  Miss 


58 


The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


Genevieve  Russell,  was  to  the  patients  a  sec- 
ond Florence  Nightingale,  and  with  her  able 
assistants  made  so  much  of  an  improvement  in 
the  condition  and  management  of  the  wards 
that  the  death-rate  soon  matreially  decreased. 
That  these  women  were  salaried  by  the 
government  does  not  for  a  moment  obviate 
the  fact  that  their  labor  was  largely  a  labor  of 
love  and  in  time  of  emergency  no  sacrifice  was 
asked  of  them  but  that  they  cheerfully 
gave.  No  mother  whose  boy  was  brought 
back  from  the  gates  of  death  by  the  unceas- 
ing care  of  one  of  these  women  will  ever  be 
tempted  to  place  a  money  value  on  that  nurse's 
services. 

Our  nightly  song-services  at  the  tent  seemed 
productive  of  so  much  good-cheer  that  Col. 
Edmund  Rice,  commanding  the  Twenty-sixth 
Regiment,  suggested  that  I  visit  the  inland 
towns  garrisoned  by  the  men  of  his  regiment, 
conducting  at  least  one  service  at  each  point. 
Skirmishing  was  quite  common  in  the  interior 
and  even  in  the  outskirts  of  Iloilo  rarely  a 
week  passed  away  without  a  fusillade  on  some 
outpost.  This  necessitated  traveling  with  an 
escort,  for,  as  the  colonel  put  it,  "By  traveling 
the  roads  alone  you  will  not  only  get  shot  but 
the  newspapers  will  spell  your  name  wrong  in 
reporting  it."  Armed  with  an  imposing 
revolver  and  a  kind  letter  of  introduction  to 


Manila  and  Iloilo  59 


company  commanders,  mounted  on  a  Filipino 
pony  and  accompanied  by  an  escort  guarding 
not  only  myself  but  an  ambulance  carrying 
convalescents  to  their  companies  for  duty, 
I  started  for  the  interior  on  the  13th  of 
March. 


in 


Zen  Wn^s  among  tbe  Garrisons 


is  always  picturesque  when  it  has  its  proper 
setting  of  chequered  rice  paddies,  bamboo 
thickets,  palm  groves  and  far-away  blue 
peaks,  and  this  is  the  invariable  landscape 
in  the  Visayas.  Between  Jaro  and  Santa  Bar- 
bara we  were  much  interested  in  several  lines 
of  well-constructed  trenches  crossing  our  road. 
The  insurgents  had  been  driven  from  them 
with  some  difficulty  a  few  months  before  and 
the  cocoa  palms  showed  many  evidences  of 
the  American  shell  fire.  A  little  beyond  this 
battlefield,  I  regret  to  say,  we  ran  across  a 
"lemonade  spring,"  or,  in  civilian  English,  a 
native  drinking  booth,  and  several  of  the  escort 


E  started    in   mid  -  afternoon, 


^  Barbara.  The  journey, 
after  the  sun  was  well 
9^  down  in  the  west, 
^  proved  very  pleasant. 
^  The  Filipino  shack,  no 
matter  how  dilapidated. 


passing  through  the  in- 
teresting town  of  Jaro 
and  making  our  first 
evening  halt  with  the 
little  garrison  at  Santa 


60 


Ten  Days  Among  the  Garrisons  6i 


showed  their  contempt  of  death  by  drinking 
"tuba"  from  a  bamboo  joint. 

Upon  reaching  Santa  Barbara  I  was  cordially 
welcomed  by  the  lieutenant  in  command  and 
turned  over  to  the  care  of  his  first-sergeant, 
Sulnol,  who  took  me  over  to  the  "convento" 
used  as  a  barracks  and  introduced  me,  first  to 
the  cook  and  kitchen  (beans,  hard-tack,  prunes 
and  coffee)  and  then  to  the  company  in  gen- 
eral. A  preacher  was  a  great  novelty  and 
every  man  off  duty  gathered  in  the  barracks  to 
an  informal  service  of  song  and  testimony. 
Before  leaving  Iloilo  I  had  filled  several  sugar 
sacks  with  old  magazines,  newspapers,  flexible- 
back  hymn-books,  Testaments,  writing  paper, 
pencils  and  envelopes.  After  the  service  I 
opened  up  the  Santa  Barbara  sack  and  could 
have  been  no  better  appreciated  had  I  been 
Saint  Nicholas  himself.  The  value  of  these 
few  old  papers  and  our  little  service  was  not 
only  mental  and  spiritual  but  social  as  well. 
Monotony  is  the  worst  enemy  to  a  soldier's 
morals  and  discipline  and  any  break  in  the 
dreary  round  of  garrison  duty  is  eagerly  wel- 
comed. Some  weeks  after  my  visit  to  the  men 
of  Santa  Barbara  I  picked  up  from  the  floor  of 
an  abandoned  barracks  a  soldier's  diary.  It  is 
a  good  window  through  which  to  see  soldier- 
life  in  the  many  little  garrisons.  I  give  it  ver- 
batim: 


62     The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


(1)  "I  bought  a  money-belt  Thursday.    I  paid  one  dol- 

lar for  it,  and  then  I  bought  this  book  for  ten 
cents. 

(2)  "I  paid  a  debt  of  two  dollars  to  the  canteen. 

(3)  "I  lost  four  dollars  and  a|half  shooting  craps. 

(4)  "I  lost  another  dollar  and  thirty  cents  shooting  craps. 

(5)  "I  paid  thirt}--five  cents  for  smoking  tobacco. 

(6)  "I  paid  fifteen  cents  for  hair-cut  (company  barber). 

(7)  "I  paid  two  dollars  and  a  quarter  for  a  barber's 

outfit. 

(8)  "I  spent  one  dollar  at  the  canteen  for  eatables. 

(9)  "I  spent  one  dollar  for  milk  (condensed)  and  other 

things  to  eat  The  total  of  the  first  month's  pay 
that  I  spent,  $13.65.  (The  private's  pay  is  $15.60 
on  foreign  service.) 

(16)  "One  of  my  mates  had  to  go  to  the  hospital  yester- 

day evening.  I  borrowed  one  dollar  from  Gary 
McMams. 

(17)  "I  loaned  thirty-five  cents  to  Ben 'Ballard.    When  I 

get  my  next  month's  pay  and  pay  up  I  will  have 
$13.90  clear  money.  I  will  have  to  send  labout 
$10.00  home,  so  I  can  have  some  to  sport  on  when 
I  get  back. 

(25)  "I  borrowed  five  cents  of  Ben  Ballard  to  get  a  sack 
of  tobacco  with." 

The  fact  that  this  man  kept  a  diary  at  all 
showed  him  to  be  out  of  the  ordinary.  Usually 
a  soldier's  pay  lasts  but  a  day  or  two  after  the 
paymaster's  visit.  If  there  is  no  beer  to  be 
obtained  at  the  post-canteen  the  cunning  get 
up  what  is  known  as  a  "quiet"  (!)  game  and 
the  company's  cash  flows  to  the  pockets  of  the 
man  of  lowest  moral  level.  Then  monotony 
reigns  until  the  next  monthly  or  bi-monthly 


Te7i  Days  Among  the  Garrisons  63 


visit  of  the  paymaster.  But  while  pay-day  is 
"devil's  day"  mail  day  is  "angel's  day,"  and 
even  the  old  magazines  which  I  spread  so  liber- 
ally about  Panay  reminded  of  Home  and  pos- 
sessed no  little  moral  force.  A  friend  states 
that  on  one  occasion  he  saw  a  poor  homesick 
fellow  weeping  over  a  fragment  torn  from  the 
advertising  pages  of  some  American  publica- 
tion. 

After  playing  my  little  role  as  "Santa  Claus 
with  a  Sugar  Sack,"  Sergeant  Sulnol  insisted 
upon  taking  me  across  the  plaza  to  the  house 
of  the  village  padre.  I  found  him  to  be  a  bright 
little  man  in  black  "soutane,"  Mansuete  by 
name,  who  treated  us  with  exaggerated  cour- 
tesy and  kept  me  busy  dodging  wines  and 
cigars.  Upon  learning  that  my  next  destina- 
tion was  the  town  of  Cabatuan,  four  miles  west, 
the  padre  kindly  suggested  that  I  ride  over 
with  him  in  the  morning,  as  he  had  planned  to 
go.  I  accepted  the  offer  and  in  the  morning 
after  spending  a  comfortable  night  in  the  bar- 
racks I  left  the  ambulance  and  its  escort  to 
pursue  its  way  north  and  with  a  second  sack  of 
supplies  in  the  rear  of  the  rickety  rig  drove 
west  behind  the  padre's  two  hardy  little 
ponies.  In  spite  of  the  rusty  appearance  of 
both  ponies  and  vehicle  (the  latter  a  nonde- 
script affair  that  I  refuse  to  describe),  and  the 
difficulties  of  the  road,  which  was  quite  hilly, 


64 


The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Lmid 


we  soon  attained  a  furious  pace,  for  the  holy 
father's  sporting  blood  was  up.  With  his 
"soutane"  pulled  up  over  his  knees,  his  legs 
spread  out  and  firmly  braced,  his  hat  off,  his 
cigar  desperately  clinched  between  his  teeth, 
and  his  whip-hand  going,  he  certainly  made  a 
figure  to  be  admired.  It  was  my  first  expe- 
rience with  a  racing  parson  and  proved  both 
exhilarating  and  instructive.  Everything  we 
met — carabao  carts,  bull-carts  and  pedestrians 
dived  promptly  for  the  bushes.  One  or  two 
who  hesitated  on  the  edge  of  the  road  had  such 
maledictions  shouted  upon  them  that  they  not 
only  jumped  into  the  ditch  but  snatched  their 
grass  hats  hastily  off  in  humble  obeisance. 
The  dogs  alone  seemed  Protestant. 

Upon  arrival  at  Cabatuan  I  presented  myself 
to  Major  Anderson,  in  command,  and  then,  as 
I  had  determined  to  return  to  Santa  Barbara 
before  evening,  visited  the  troops  in  the  town, 
gave  my  supplies  for  them  to  the  orderly- 
sergeant,  promised  them  another  visit  and  a 
gospel-service  in  the  near  future  and  accom- 
panied Padre  Mansuete  in  a  friendly  call  upon 
the  Cabatuan  priest. 

It  must  be  understood  that  before  American 
occupation  Filipinos  were  debarred  from  the 
full  priesthood,  not  being  allowed  to  conduct 
the  service  of  the  mass.  They  were  in  fact,  and 
still  are,  but  secondary  clergy.or  "presbyteros." 


Ten  Days  Among  the  Garrisons  65 


At  the  present  time  the  Spanish  friars  (i.  e., 
members  of  the  various  orders)  thoroughly  hated 
by  the  natives,  have  been  compelled  to  abandon 
the  interior  and  gather  behind  the  walls  of  old 
Manila.  Outside  of  this  refuge  there  are  but  a 
handful  of  them  scattered  among  the  larger 
ports  and  keeping  well  sheltered  by  American 
bayonets.  I  only  know  of  one  case  where  a 
Spanish  priest  remained  safely  in  his  parish. 
At  the  town  of  Talisay,  on  the  island  of  Negros, 
the  aged  parish-priest  was  so  beloved  by  his 
people  that  they  interceded  with  the  insur- 
gents for  him  and  he  is  still  in  his  parish  un- 
disturbed. This  is  the  exception  which  proves 
the  rule.  While  the  Filipinos  have  a  real 
regard  for  the  native  presbyteros  known  as 
padres  by  courtesy,  they  are  extremely  bitter 
toward  the  "frayles."  I  have  several  times 
heard  drastic  tales  of  the  murder  of  priests 
during  the  rise  and  triumph  of  the  insurgents 
in  '97  and  '98.  The  friars  are  now  compelled 
to  administer  the  parishes  through  the  padres 
who  are,  of  course,  exercising  all  the  preroga- 
tives of  the  full  priesthood.  For  an  unpreju- 
diced view  of  priestly  intelligence  and  morality 
that  of  Foreman,  himself  a  Romanist,  deserves 
the  most  attention.  He  says,  speaking  of  the 
Spanish  friars: 

"They  are  usually  taken  from  the  peasantry 
and  families  of  low  station.    As  a  rule,  they 


66     The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


have  little  or  no  secular  education,  and  regard- 
ing them  apart  from  their  religious  training 
they  may  be  considered  a  very  ignorant  class. 
It  is  very  natural  that  amongst  the  large  body 
of  them  dispersed  over  the  Philippines  there 
should  be  found  a  number  of  black  sheep, 
especially  when  it  is  taken  into  account  the  un- 
refined class  from  which  the  majority  are 
recruited.  If  self-indulgence  is  to  be  accounted 
a  sin,  then  they  are  sinful  indeed.  And  it 
would  be  contrary  to  fact,  too,  to  pretend  that 
the  bulk  of  them  support  their  teaching  by  per- 
sonal example.  I  have  been  acquainted  with  a 
great  number  of  the  priests,  and  with  their  off- 
spring, too,  in' spite  of  their  vows  of  chastity; 
whilst  many  live  in  comparative  luxury,  not- 
withstanding their  vow  of  poverty." 

These  words  are  well  inside  the  mark  and  I 
quote  them  because  they  apply  to  the  padres 
as  perfectly  as  to  the  friars.  The  general 
hatred  of  the  friar,  however,  is  largely  due  to 
his  Spanish  blood,  and  it  does  not  as  yet  ex- 
tend to  the  system  which  produced  him.  The 
native  priest  is,  in  immorality,  bigotry,  igno- 
rance and  avarice,  a  reflection  of  his  predecessor, 
but  his  being  "of  the  people"  gives  him,  un- 
happily, a  great  prestige.  Already,  however, 
there  are  significant  movements  headed  by  the 
more  intelligent  of  the  natives  in  the  larger 
towns,  a  revolt  not  merely  against  a  foreign 


Ten  Days  Among  the  Garrisons  67 


priesthood  but  against  a  religious  system  which 
is  the  nursery  for  avarice  and  selfishness,  and 
has  as  its  best  fruitage  an  ignorant  and  de- 
graded priesthood,  I  was  not  surprised  that 
even  the  most  loyal  Catholic  soldiers  in  our 
regiments  were  half-ashamed  to  own  their  affili- 
ation. This  word  on  the  priesthood  is  largely  a 
parenthesis  and  born  of  a  fair  acquaintance 
with  them,  not  only  on  Panay  but  on  Luzon  as 
well,  during  which  I  have  even  been  invited  by 
them  to  share  their  sins  and  only  occasioned 
surprise  by  my  refusal  to  do  so. 

But  my  experiences  at  the  Cabatuan  "con- 
vento,"  or  priest's  house,  were  rather  pleasant 
than  otherwise.  The  local  priest  was  a  stern- 
visaged  fellow,  emaciated  and  awkward,  but  he 
was  entertaining  a  fellow  padre  from  a  neigh- 
boring parish  who  was  not  only  his  opposite 
but  a  veritable  Friar  Tuck.  My  Spanish  being 
quite  elemental  we  had  some  difficulty  in  find- 
ing a  point  of  contact.  It  was  discovered  at 
last  in  a  very  interesting  old  library,  largely  of 
Latin  titles,  doubtless  the  property  in  the  past 
of  some  Spanish  friar  who  was  compelled  to 
evacuate  hastily  and  leave  his  treasures  behind. 
After  examining  some  of  the  quaint  volumes 
and  explaining  our  respective  positions  reli- 
giously by  means  of  an  improvised  sign  lan- 
guage which  would  have  done  credit  to  a 
peace-talk    among   the   Sioux   we   had  our 


68 


The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


luncheon  together  in  quite  brotherly  fashion. 
This  luncheon  was  no  small  matter.  There 
were  a  number  of  courses,  composed  largely  of 
weird  mixtures  of  chopped  meats  served  with 
oil  and  garlic.  Avoiding  these  vigilantly  I 
dwelt  happily  on  an  oasis  of  finely-cooked  rice. 
The  ending  was,  of  course,  wine  and  cigars. 
After  the  tonsures  had  bobbed  over  the  table 
for  little  short  of  an  hour  they  announced  a 
siesta,  in  preparation  for  which  I  had  the 
unusual  sight  of  a  padre  without  his  gown  and 
it  is  surprising  how  much  holiness  a  "father" 
owes  to  his  robe.  Without  it  the  only  thing 
remaining  to  remind  you  of  his  superior 
sanctity  is  the  little  bald  spot  on  his  head  and 
imagination  can  easily  attribute  that  to  other 
causes  than  the  wear  and  tear  of  carrying  a 
halo.  I  sickened  of  the  siesta  first  and  the 
padres  came  to  life  in  due  time.  I  was  surprised 
to  find  Friar  Tuck  the  first  out  of  bed  and  into 
his  gown,  but  the  mystery  was  explained  when 
he  drew  out  a  greasy  euchre  deck  and  almost 
sobered  his  jolly  face  in  a  game  of  solitaire — 
cigars  and  burnt  chocolate  at  his  elbow.  Man- 
suete  and  I  left  him  so,  ourselves  rattling  back 
to  Santa  Barbara  in  fine  style  with  only  a  single 
stop,  during  which  my  companion  arranged  a 
horse  trade  with  the  Cabatuan  schoolmaster,  the 
pupils  of  the  latter  being  left  to  their  fate  while 
the  matter  was  clinched.    A  second  service  in 


Ten  Days  Among  the  Garrisons  69 


the  Santa  Barbara  barracks  filled  the  evening 
and  Mansuete  from  mingled  courtesy  and  curi- 
osity loaned  us  his  presence.  The  use  of  his 
name  some  weeks  later  helped  get  me  out  of  a 
disagreeable  position  as  I  shall  soon  relate. 
In  closing  the  account  of  my  first  afternoon 
with  the  native  priests  let  me  say  that  my  ex- 
perience then,  in  common  with  all  subsequent 
ones,  leads  me  to  the  opinion  that  apart  from  all 
consideraiions  of  morality  and  religion  they  are,  as 
the  English  say,  "a  good  sort." 

On  the  morning  of  the  15th  I  rode  north  to 
Pototan,  passing  through  several  hamlets  or 
"barrios"  on  the  road.  Two  companies  of  in- 
fantry, composed  the  garrison  at  Pototan  and 
services  were  arranged  for  them  on  the  even- 
ings of  the  15th  and  i6th.  The  arrival  of  the 
paymaster  during  the  first  afternoon  interfered 
somewhat  with  the  attendance  but  all  available 
men  were  present  to  enjoy  the  meetings.  At 
this  post  I  made  arrangements  for  the  estab- 
lishing of  a  post  reading-room.  Colonel  Dick- 
man  promising  a  section  of  one  of  the  barracks 
for  that  purpose.  After  two  days  about  Poto- 
tan doing  such  Christian  work  as  came  to  hand 
I  took  the  road  for  Passi,  eighteen  miles 
farther  to  the  north.  I  had  foolishly  allowed 
my  escort  to  get  some  distance  ahead  of  me  and 
as  there  had  been  a  good  deal  of  fighting  of 
late  along  the  Passi  road  I  had  some  anxiety 


70 


The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


especially  in  passing  through  the  town  of 
Dingle,  which  had  recently  been  partially 
destroyed  in  retaliation  for  the  brutal  torture 
and  murder  of  an  American  soldier.  The 
place  was  sullen  enough  as  I  rode  through  it, 
pistol  in  hand,  but  no  attempt  was  made  to 
molest  me  and  immediately  beyond  the  town  I 
found  my  escort.  Just  before  entering  Passi 
we  dipped  into  a  ravine  and  came  suddenly 
upon  several  suspicious-looking  natives.  I 
was  much  amused  to  note  the  thorough  way  in 
which  the  roldiers  felt  them  over — to  discover 
hidden  war-knives  or  "boloes."  They  carried 
no  concealed  cutlery  and  were  allowed  to  go 
in  peace,  grinning  cheerfully. 

All  interior  towns  in  the  Philippines  have  a 
melancholy  sameness,  being  invariably  built 
on  the  same  plan.  To  begin  with  there  is  a 
square  lot  or  plaza  with  a  stone  church,  a 
priest's  house  (usually  the  best  in  the  town)  a 
tribunal  and  a  few  of  the  more  pretentious  resi- 
dences fringing  its  four  sides.  To  end  the 
description  up  this  fringe  is  backed  by  a 
miscellany  of  bamboo  houses,  thatched  with 
grass.  In  some  of  the  older  districts  these 
towns  may  affect  the  eye  of  the  traveler  favor- 
ably if  well  shaded  with  palms  and  neatly 
kept.  Passi,  however,  turned  out  to  be  a  deso- 
late place,  too  far  up  in  the  foothills  to  have 
its  dry  bones  covered  with  foliage.     It  was 


Ten  Days  Among  the  Garrisons  71 


more  of  a  rendezvous  for  the  American  forces 
than  a  permanent  post,  the  troops  making  it  a 
center  from  which  to  scout  out  through  the 
hills  after  the  light-footed  guerrillas  who 
abounded  in  the  region.  My  visit  proved 
quite  opportune  as  two  out  of  the  three  com- 
panies in  the  district  were  just  in  from  a 
"hike"  and  were  refreshing  themselves  with 
more  than  the  usual  amount  of  gambling  and 
"tuba"  drinking.  Captain  Connell  was  in  com- 
mand and  treated  me  with  every  kindness,  he 
and  his  brother  ofificers  attending  the  services 
for  the  men  in  their  quarters  that  night.  The 
interest  taken  in  this  service  was  such  that  I 
determined  to  remain  for  a  second  evening, 
day  meetings  being  forbidden  by  the  extreme 
heat.  The  rude  quarters  being  used  by  the 
men  as  an  improvised  barracks  were  so  cramped 
that  I  held  the  second  service  on  the  moon- 
lit plaza.  Gathering  in  a  large  circle  upon  the 
grass  we  sang  such  choruses  as  we  could  remem- 
ber and  had  a  decidedly  informal  but  very 
helpful  service.  It  was  so  much  appreciated 
that  I  felt  rather  guilty  next  day  in  leaving, 
for  from  Passi  I  headed  back  toward  Iloilo 
and  comfortable  quarters,  leaving  the  soldiers 
to  their  hardship  and  discomfort,  and  my 
friend  Connell,  who  was  erstwhile  a  "society 
man"  and  held  a  commission  in  the  New  York 
Seventh,  to  the  contemplation  of  some  twenty 


72     The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


small-pox  funerals  a  day  passing  by  his  head- 
quarters— an  epidemic  of  that  disease  being  in 
full  swing  among  the  natives. 

From  Passi  I  retraced  my  route  to  Pototan 
and  from  there  branched  east  four  miles  to 
Barotac  Nueva,  a  surrendered  "insurrecto" 
shouldering  my  sack  of  reading  matter  for  the 
Barotac  garrison  down  the  road  ahead  of  me. 
I  passed  but  a  single  day  at  Barotac  finding 
the  place  much  disturbed.  The  evening 
before  my  arrival  a  sharp  skirmish  had  occurred 
and  after  preaching  to  the  men  I  watched 
from  the  windows  of  the  darkened  quarters 
the  waving  signal  lights  of  the  insurgents 
in  the  hills  a  short  distance  to  the  north. 
This  seemed  to  argue  a  night  attack  upon  us 
and  officers  and  men  slept  lightly.  Nothing 
occurred  to  disturb  us,  however,  and  in  the 
morning  I  took  the  road  alone  and  returned 
first  to  Pototan  and  then  on  the  22d  to 
Cabatuan  by  way  of  Janivay.  The  road  was 
reputed  dangerous  and  I  had  some  apprehen- 
sions, but  my  fears  were  largely  allayed  by  a 
number  of  little  children  whom  I  met  while 
some  miles  out  of  Cabatuan.  They  carried 
school  books  under  their  arms  and  gravely  re- 
moving their  caps  saluted  me  in  good  English, 
with  "Good  afternoon,  sir!"  A  bullet  would 
not  have  surprised  me  as  much.     I  found, 


Ten  Days  Among  the  Garrisons  73 


upon  reaching  Cabatuan,  that  Captain  Board- 
man,  of  that  garrison,  was  giving  the  local 
school  an  hour  in  English  daily.  After  con- 
ducting the  promised  service  with  the  soldiers 
at  Cabatuan  and  enjoying  many  courtesies 
from  the  officers  of  the  garrison  I  returned  to 
Iloilo,  being  surprised  on  arriving  to  find  my 
old  hospital  tent  gone,  but  a  new  and  much 
larger  one  erected  in  its  place — a  labor  of  love 
on  the  part  of  some  men  of  Battery  G,  Sixth 
Artillery,  and  Companies  E  and  F  of  the 
Twenty-sixth  Infantry. 

This  brief  journey  of  ten  days  proved  valu- 
able to  me.  I  was  now  able  to  appreciate  bet- 
ter the  condition  of  affairs  at  the  interior  posts 
and  not  only  endeavored  to  supply  the  troops 
scattered  over  the  island  with  reading  and 
writing  material  but  made  other  journeys 
from  time  to  time,  fitting  out  reading  and 
social  rooms  with  such  scanty  means  as  I  had 
at  my  disposal  and  getting  men  detailed  to 
care  for  them,  preaching  to  gospel-hungry  men 
and  doing  personal  work.  In  my  diary  for 
April  6th  I  find  this  entry:  "In  response  to  a 
request  from  Colonel  Scott  opened  up  a  read- 
ing and  correspondence  room  for  the  men  of 
the  Forty-fourth  Infantry  at  Jaro.  They  are 
ravenous  for  reading  matter.  Transported  by 
a  bull-cart  from   Iloilo  one  case  magazines, 


74     The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


writing  material,  powdered  ink,  ink  wells,  and 
a  few  late  San  Francisco  papers  (six  weeks 
old,  of  course).  Private  Ira  J.  Steidley,  of 
Company  B,  is  in  charge.  Splendid  quarters 
given." 


IV 

TLbc  presbiPtedan  /Disston  in  tbe  tDisa^as 


UR  new  tent,  twenty  by  forty,  well 
fitted  out  with  benches  and  impro- 
vised tables  and  dignified  by 
lamps  in  place  of  candles, 
now  became  a  popular  re- 
sort. Regular  religious  serv- 
ices were  conducted  both 
on  the  Lord's  Day  and 
through  the  week,  and  Sat- 
urday evenings  were  given 
over  to  impromptu  entertain- 
ments. Among  other  con- 
trivances for  cheering  up  "the  boys"  we  at- 
tempted a  "donkey  party"  which  proved  so 
successful  as  to  warrant  repetition.  By  care- 
lessly leaving  the  black  cloth  anim'al  hanging 
to  the  tent  wall  we  raised  a  curious  misap- 
prehension in  the  minds  of  the  inquisitive 
Filipinos,  who  always  formed  an  interested 
outer  circle  at  our  gatherings.  Being  pinned 
to  the  rear  wall  directly  back  of  the  desk 
from  which  I  conducted  the  services,  it 
was  not  many  days  before  a  surprising  belief 
was  current  in  the  town  among  the  more 
ignorant  natives.  It  was  to  the  effect  that  the 
75 


"6     The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


donkey  was  the  sacred  animal  of  the  Ameri- 
cans, "for,"  argued  they,  "does  not  the  'padre 
protestante'  both  minister  before  it  and  gestic- 
ulate toward  it!"  It  is  needless  to  say  that 
wounded  American  dignit>-  soon  dethroned  the 
supposed  idol. 

It  was  with  a  deeper  feeling  than  mere  amuse- 
ment, however,  that  the  Christian  men  amongst 
us  obser\-ed  the  pitiful  ignorance  of  the  native 
mind  and  heart.  Being  utterly  ignorant  of  the 
Visayan  dialect,  speaking  but  little  Spanish  and 
with  my  hands  full  of  my  work  among  the 
troops  I  was  unable  to  do  more  than  pray  that 
God  might  send  someone  to  open  up  for  them 
a  door  of  Gospel  opportunitj'.  This  desire  was 
speedily  gratified.  For  months  the  Presby- 
terian mission  at  Manila  had  contemplated  a 
forward  movement  and  I  had  been  in  Iloilo  but 
a  few  brief  weeks  when  my  heart  was  glad- 
dened by  the  arrival  of  the  first  missionaries  to 
the  Visayans.  Messrs.  Hibbard  and  Hall.  As 
Mr.  Hibbard  had  acquired  some  knowledge  of 
Spanish  they  were  soon  able  to  open  up  a  serv- 
ice for  the  natives.  In  this  they  were  greatly 
helped  by  the  opf>ortune  arrival  in  Iloilo  of  a 
young  Protestant  Visayan,  converted  in  the 
Baptist  mission  at  Barcelona,  Spain,  who  at 
first  interpreted  for  them  and  later  develop)ed 
into  an  independent  speaker  of  ability.  There 
were  in  Iloilo  not  a  few  Chinese  merchants 


Presbyterian  Mission  in  the  Visayas  77 


whose  shops  lined  the  long  stretch  of  Calie 
Real  and  in  addition  to  the  weekly  services  for 
Filipinos  they  were  also  led  to  take  up  work 
for  their  benefit.  This  was  aside  from  the 
main  purpose  of  the  mission  and  was  due  to 
the  providential  presence  in  Iloilo  of  a  second 
bright  young  convert,  a  Chinaman  formerly  of 
the  London  Mission  at  Amoy,  who  only  needed 
slight  encouragement  to  undertake  a  weekly 
Bible  class  among  his  countr>'men.  In  addi- 
tion to  this  two-fold  work  Mr.  Hibbard  opened 
up  an  English  service  for  the  benefit  of 
officers  and  English  and  American  civilians. 
Thus,  but  a  few  days  after  their  arrival  these 
brethren  were  in  a  position  to  reach  every  ele- 
ment in  the  place.  I  attended  the  first  English 
service  on  Sunday,  April  8th.  It  was  held  in 
a  little  rented  hall  on  Calle  Rosario,  hastily 
fitted  with  bamboo  chairs  and  a  pulpit.  My 
notebook  briefly  says:  "Attended  at  9:30  a.m. 
the  first  service  conducted  by  Presbyterian 
missionaries.  Rev.  Mr.  Hibbard  and  Dr.  Hall, 
The  service  was  in  English.  Attendance  quite 
cosmopolitan.  Chinese,  Malay,  Spanish, 
Mestizo,  English  and  American.  Text, 
Romans  13:13.  This  is  the  first  service,  out- 
side of  our  army  work  ever  held  in  Panay  in 
the  name  of  the  pure  Gospel.  The  isles  of 
the  sea  shall  praise  Him." 

It  was  not  long  before  the  meetings  for 


78 


The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


natives  were  largely  attended.  Curiosity  had 
a  great  deal  to  do  with  this  but  a  genuine  inter- 
est seemed  to  accompany  the  work  at  the  out- 
set. The  chapel  not  only  continued  to  be 
crowded  but  the  attendance  has  since  com- 
pelied  the  erection  of  a  bamboo  building  to 
insure  proper  accommodation.  When  I  last 
visited  Iloilo  in  September,  1900,  the  mission 
had  not  merely  a  regular  congregation  but  a 
little  band  of  regenerated  men  and  women  who 
honored  their  master  by  faithful  Christian 
living. 

It  is  generally  admitted  that  the  Filipino  is 
not  understandable.  The  Occidental  and 
Oriental  minds  have  never  been  able  to  ex- 
change viewpoints.  When  we  first  landed  in 
the  Islands  we  accepted  the  Filipino  at  face 
value,  taking  sides  strongly  for  or  against  him. 
He  was  either  insolent,  or  courteous,  honest  or 
dishonest,  lazy  or  industrious,  treacherous  or 
docile,  intelligent  or  stupid.  A  few  months  of 
experience  however,  brought  us  to  the  con- 
clusion that  he  was  a  little  of  all  this,  and,  in 
the  secret  region  of  his  motives  and  controlling 
principles  a  decidedly  unknown  quantity. 
The  mental  make-up  of  the  islander  is  such 
that  he  can  violate  every  Saxon  view  of  con- 
sistency and  yet  be  perfectly  consistent  with 
himself!  I  at  first  was  somewhat  effusive 
about  him,  for  he  was  polite,  cheerful,  alert, 


Presbyterian  Mission  in  the  Visayas  79 


friendly.  I  then  suffered  a  shock  in  discover- 
ing him  to  be  deceitful,  insolent,  and  treacher- 
ous. I  now  dwell  in  the  realm  of  the  happy 
medium  and  declare  him  to  be  decidedly 
human  and  badly  trained  in  the  bargain. 
The  American  soldier's  feeling  toward  him  is 
capitally  illustrated  in  a  ballad  now  very  pop- 
ular in  the  barracks.  It  has  some  value  in  this 
connection.  It  is  the  complaint  of  an  old 
regular  to  a  less  sophisticated  comrade: 

THE  GENTLE  FILIPINO. 

I've  chased  the  wild  Apache  through  his  God-forsaken 
land, 

I've  tracked  the  daring  horse-thief,  where  his  foot -prints 

mark  the  sand, 
I've  summered  with  the  robbers  down  at  Coney  by  the 

sea, 

But  the  gentle  Filipino,  say,  he  beats  them  all  for  me. 
He  beats  them  all  for  me,  son,  the  whole  immortal  lot, 
In  his  slushy,  mushy  country  where  the  climate's  good 
and  hot. 

I've  tracked  the  red  and  yellow,  and  I've  tracked  the 

wild  and  tame, 
But  the  gentle  Filipino  is  high,  low,  jack,  and  game. 

With  his  timid  little  manner  and  his  sweet  and  loving 
smile. 

And  his  easy  way  of  swearing  that  he  loves  you  all  the 
while ; 

With  a  white  flag  on  his  shanty,  hanging  out  to  catch 
your  eye. 

And  his  little  rifle  ready  to  plunk  you  by-and-by; 


8o     The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


For  to  plunk  you  by-and-by,  boy,  to  shoot  you  in  the 
back, 

And  to  skip  away  as  swiftly  as  a  sprinter  down  the 
track. 

To  come  'round  when  they  plant  you,  just  to  drop  a 
little  tear. 

For  the  gentle  Filipino  is  a  tender-hearted  dear. 

But  I  know  that  he's  an  angel,  pure  and  white  as  ocean 
foam, 

'Cause  I  read  it  in  the  papers  that  they  send  to  me  from 
home; 

And  I  know  I  am  a  butcher  'cause  the  pamphlet  says 
I  am. 

But  I  think  I'll  keep  a  fighting  just  the  same  for  Uncle 
Sam. 

The  soldier  believes  that  by  not  expecting 
too  much  of  the  Filipino  he  fills  your  every 
requirement.  He  is  certainly  cleanly,  polite 
to  the  powerful,  hospitable  and  intelligent. 
His  Spanish  training  of  three  centuries  has 
kept  his  mind  in  swaddling  clothes  and  the 
Roman  church  has  seen  to  it  that  he  has  not 
become  too  moral. 

The  best  standpoint  from  which  to  view  the 
little  brown  man  is  that  of  the  native  himself. 
Dr.  Ramon  Lala,  an  educated  Tagalo»'>  has 
said: 

"The  first  thing  that  in  the  native  char- 
acter impresses  the  traveler  is  his  impassive 
demeanor  and  imperturbable  bearing.  He 
is  a  born  stoic,  a  fatalist  by  nature.  Euro- 
peans often  seem  to  notice  in  him  what  they 


Presbyterian  Mission  in  the  Visayas  8i 


deem  a  lack  of  sympathy  for  the  misfortunes 
of  others;  but  it  is  not  this  so  much  as  resigna- 
tion to  the  inevitable.  Incomprehensible  in- 
consistencies obtain  in  nearly  every  native. 
Students  of  character  may,  therefore,  study  the 
Filipino  for  years  and  yet  at  last  have  no 
definite  impression  of  his  mental  or  moral 
status.  I,  myself,  with  all  the  inherited  feel- 
ings, tastes  and  tendencies  of  my  countrymen — 
modified  and  transmuted,  happily — have  stood 
aghast  or  amused  at  some  hitherto  unknown 
characteristic  suddenly  manifesting  itself  in 
an  intimate  acquaintance.  Though  calm,  the 
native  is  not  secretive  but  often  loquacious. 
He  is  naturally  curious  and  inquisitive  but 
always  polite — especially  to  his  superiors. 
He  is  passionate  and  cruel  to  his  foes.  He  is 
very  fond  of  his  children,  who  are,  as  a  rule, 
respectful  and  well  behaved.  The  noisy  little 
hoodlums  of  European  and  American  cities 
are  utterly  unknown.  He  venerates  and  cares 
for  the  old.  His  guests  are  always  welcome. 
He  is  rarely  humorous  and  seldom  witty.  He 
is  sober,  patient  and  always  clean.  He  is 
superstitious  and  credulous.  He  is  ambitious 
socially  and  fond  of  pomp  and  glitter." 

It  must  be  said  for  the  Filipinos  that  they  are 
to  the  eye  of  a  traveler  modest  in  demeanor. 
Public  indecency  is  rare.  Many  causes,  how- 
ever, have  combined  to  make  the  marriage 


82     The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bole- Land 


tie  a  very  loose  one,  in  fact,  one  that  can  be 
easily  dispensed  with  altogether.  Too  much 
blame  cannot  be  laid  upon  the  church  for  this 
condition,  as  the  exorbitant  marriage  fees  of 
its  agents  were  practically  prohibitive.  The 
Filipino,  too,  has  had  no  lesson  in  chastity 
from  foreigners.  Even  the  Anglo-Saxon  in 
the  tropics  becomes  alarmingly  lax.  It  is  a 
common  proverb  in  the  East  that  "no  English- 
man takes  the  Ten  Commandments  beyond 
Port  Said."  The  hatred  shown  toward  mission 
work  in  the  treaty-ports  is  sufficiently  explained 
by  the  fact  that  nine  -  tenths  of  the  foreign 
residents  in  these  cities  are  living  lives  which, 
judged  by  their  home  standards,  are  immoral 
in  the  extreme.  The  missionary  often  stands 
alone  as  an  example  of  chastity  to  an  alien 
race  and  until  1899  the  Filipinos  had  not 
even  the  limited  influence  of  such. 

I  was  decidedly  interested  in  the  labors  of 
Mr.  Hibbard  and  Mr.  Hall  as  I  desired  to  note, 
if  possible,  the  effect  which  the  hearing  and 
reception  of  the  Gospel  would  have  on  the 
native  character.  It  is  far  too  early  to  predi- 
cate the  general  influence  on  the  race  but  I  was 
pleased  to  notice  in  individual  instances  the 
transforming  power  of  Our  Saviour.  It  has 
already  been  said  that  the  native  was  some- 
thing of  a  stoic.  On  one  occasion,  while  try- 
ing to  find  a  hiding  place  to  escape  capture  by 


Presbyterian  JMission  in  the  Visayas  83 


a  band  of  insurgents  I  came  suddenly  face  to 
face  with  a  Visayan  peasant  and  thrusting  a 
pistol  against  his  head  ordered  him  at  once  to 
guide  me  to  a  place  of  safety.  Although,  no 
doubt  surprised  and  dismayed,  his  face  was  as 
stolid  as  a  wall  and  he  gave  no  sign  of  trepida- 
tion. In  the  many  funerals  I  have  witnessed  I 
have  never  seen  a  single  tear  shed  and  among 
the  Moros  of  Mindanao  I  am  told  that  a 
funeral  is  a  time  for  feasting  and  general  visita- 
tion, the  mourners  (!)  coming  to  the  bereaved 
home  and  cheerfully  playing  Moro  checkers 
and  chewing  betel-nut.  In  the  face  of  this 
racial  stoicism,  it  was  refreshing  to  notice  the 
conversion  of  a  bright  young  Tagalo  who 
attended  Mr.  Hibbard's  services.  I  had 
become  interested  in  him  through  living  for  a 
time  in  one  end  of  a  bamboo  shack,  only  sep- 
arated from  him  and  his  family  by  a  matting 
partition.  The  pattered  prayers  which  sifted 
through  this  screen  each  evening  and  the 
chants  which  the  family  sang  around  the 
cocoanut-oil  lamp  at  night  showed  him  to  be  a 
sincere  religionist — a  Catholic  Cornelius  await- 
ing his  Peter — and  I  became  convinced  that  the 
presentation  of  the  pure  Gospel  would  find  him 
ready  to  receive  it.  I  had  presented  him  with 
a  Spanish  Gospel  of  John  and  a  friend,  Mr. 
James  Borrec,  who  was  at  home  both  in  the 
Spanish  language  and  the  native  dialect  gave 


84     T/ie  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


him  from  time  to  time  an  idea  of  the  Protes- 
tant faith.  When,  with  the  assistance  of  his 
native  helper,  Mariano,  Mr.  Hibbard  opened 
up  his  first  Filipino  services  both  he  and  his 
wife  attended  and  became  decidedly  inter- 
ested. It  was  not  long  before  he  was  deeply 
burdened  with  a  consciousness  of  his  guilt 
before  God,  and  Nicodemus-like  went  by 
night  to  inquire  the  way  of  life — and  in  tears 
confessed  his  longing  for  forgiveness  and 
peace.  Both  husband  and  wife  were  soon  after 
received  into  full  membership  in  the  Presby- 
terian mission,  Mr.  Hibbard  expressing  to  me 
the  strongest  confidence  in  their  conversion. 

As  might  be  expected,  the  successful  open- 
ing of  a  heretical  mission  aroused  the  padres. 
The  village  priest  at  Molo,  three  miles  west 
of  Iloilo,  where  Mr.  Hibbard  had  formed 
a  class  in  English  among  the  young  men,  can- 
vassed the  home  of  each  member  and,  by  his 
threatenings,  induced  the  majority  to  abandon 
their  teacher.  A  public  meeting  in  the  same 
town  was  invaded  by  a  party  of  young  Filipino 
bloods,  instigated  by  this  same  padre,  who 
proceeded  to  smash  the  furniture  and  frighten 
the  congregation.  Owners  refused  to  rent 
their  buildings  for  Protestant  purposes  and  the 
sum  total  of  petty  persecution  was  consider- 
able. But  the  unfailing  tact  and  courtesy  of 
these   men  of  God  soon  won  for  them  an 


Presbyterian  Mission  in  the  Visayas  85 


enviable  place  in  the  esteem  of  all  classes  of 
natives.  In  addition  to  direct  evangelistic 
work  the  arrival  of  Mrs.  Hall  and  Mrs.  Hibbard 
at  Iloilo  made  possible  the  opening  up  of  a 
Very  successful  day-school  in  which  these  self- 
sacrificing  ladies  teach  some  six  hours  daily, 
and  a  dispensary  conducted  by  Dr.  Hall  has 
opened  many  hearts  and  homes  to  the  mis- 
sionaries. The  doctor's  experiences  with  the 
medicine-loving  natives  had  their  amusing  side, 
but  the  decided  value  of  his  work  has  been 
shown  by  the  increased  esteem  and  affection 
given  the  missionaries,  the  opening  of  otherwise 
inaccessible  homes,  the  gaining  of  the  confidence 
of  the  women  who  are  the  more  difficult  to 
reach  of  the  two  sexes,  and  the  definite  personal 
work  accomplished  with  the  sick  and  dying. 
While  my  own  first  care  was  for  the  troops  I 
endeavored,  so  far  as  I  was  able,  to  assist  these 
brethren  in  their  labor  of  love  for  the  lost. 
In  return  they  not  only  preached  to  the  troops 
in  our  tent  and  the  barracks  in  the  vicinity  of 
Iloilo  but  visited  the  hospital,  did  personal 
work  among  the  sick  and  wounded  in  the 
wards  and  invited  occasional  groups  of  home- 
sick soldiers  to  their  tidy  houses,  where  "the 
boys"  would  have  a  little  glimpse  of  Heaven 
in  an  American  woman's  face. 

Army  rations  are  usually  good  quantity  and 
quality  when  they  start   from  the  purchasing 


86     The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


agent,  but  they  are  apt  to  suffer  in  the  long 
transit  to  the  Islands.  Even  when  the  soldier 
receives  his  full  ration  (and  he  will  tell  you  that 
he  seldom  does)  he  soon  finds  it  fearfully 
monotonous  The  soldiers  about  our  tent 
grumbled  so  heartily  that,  upon  discovering  a 
copy  of  Fremont's  bill  of  fare  at  Camp  Deso- 
lation, in  1848,  I  fastened  it  up  where  every 
eye  could  see.     It  ran  somewhat  as  follows: 

BILL  OF  FARE 

Camp  Desolation — Rocky  Mts. 
Dec  25,  1848 

MENU 

Mule 

SOUP 

Mu]e  Tail 

FISH 

Baked  White  Mule  Boiled  Gray  Mule 

MEATS 

Mule  Steak     Fried  Mule     Mule  Chops     Broiled  Mule 
Stewed  Mule      Boiled  Mule     Scrambled  Mule 
Schirred  Mule 
French  Fried  Mule     Minced  Mule 

Plain  Mule 
Mule  on  Toast  (without  the  Toast) 
Short  Ribs  of  Mule  with  Apple  Sauce  (without  the  Apple 
Sauce) 

RELISHES 

Black  Mule      Brown  Mule      Yellow  Mule      Bay  Mule 
Roan  Mule       Tallow  Candles 

BEVERAGES 

Snow        Snow-water  Water 


Presbyterian  Mission  m  the  Visayas  87 


This  sometimes  reduced  the  angry  hum  of 
the  grumblers  but  it  did  not  make  our  fare 
more  varied  and  the  mission  ladies  will  never 
know  the  high  degree  of  angelic  attainment  to 
which  those  shy  soldiers  boys  who  partook  of 
their  cordial  hospitality  exalted  them  as  they 
sat  down  before  a  table  decently  clothed  in  a 
linen  cover,  with  shining  knives,  forks,  glass- 
ware and  china,  a  sufificiency  of  simple  but 
nicely  cooked  food,  not  a  sign  of  the  hated 
prunes,  canned  corned-beef  or  salmon,  and  an 
American  lady  queen  of  the  occasion! 


V 

H  ipatcbworft  of  Journal  pages 


O  return  to  the  more  sober  rou- 
tine of  my  work  among  the 
troops  I  feel  that  I  will  both 
make  my  task  easier  and  the 
reader's  idea  of  the  Army  As- 
sociation's field  work  more 
vivid  by  presenting  a  patch- 
work of  hurried  entries  from 
my  notebook  of  the  period. 
I  properly  usher  these  ex- 
tracts in  with  an  apology  and 
can  only  hope  that  their 
crudeness  will  be  passed 
over  when  it  is  remembered  that  they  were 
scribbled  in  a  variety  of  distracting  scenes  and 
with  no  view  of  their  being  reproduced: 

"Miagao,  April  12. — Came  down  the  coast 
to-day  from  Iloilo  on  the  Q.  M.  D.  launch 
'Scotia,'  carrying  rations  for  the  garrison 
here.  While  off  Guimbal  we  were  hailed  by  a 
large  native  casco  beating  up  toward  Iloilo 
against  the  wind.  Being  the  only  American 
on  board  the  launch  I  took  the  liberty  of  order- 
ing her  alongside  the  casco,  which  turned  out 
to  be  carrying  two  wounded  ladrones  (brig- 
ands) to  Iloilo  from  Miagao  under  guard  of 
88 


A  Patchwork  of  Jour7ial  Pages  89 


a  sergeant  and  two  men.  The  sergeant  stated 
that  one  of  his  prisoners  appeared  to  be 
dying  and  as  his  rate  of  progress  against  the 
wind  was  so  slow  desired  to  transfer  the  man 
to  the  launch,  the  probability  being  that, 
after  making  Miagao  and  discharging  his 
load  she  would  still  beat  the  casco  into  Iloilo 
by  some  four  or  five  hours  and  thus  give 
the  man  a  chance  for  his  life  at  the  hos- 
pital. I  gladly  consented.  The  two  ladrones, 
bandaged  and  helpless,  were  brought  out  from 
the  matting  "shelter"  on  the  casco's  deck  and 
placed  as  gently  as  possible  in  the  bottom  of 
the  row-boat  which  we  were  towing.  They 
were  then  lifted  over  the  launch's  side  and 
stretched  on  the  benches  forward,  not  without 
considerable  difficulty,  as  we  were  dancing  on 
a  lively  sea.  Leaving  the  clumsy  sail-boat  to 
its  snail's  progress  in  charge  of  the  native  crew 
and  the  two  soldiers  we  headed  on  for  Miagao 
with  the  sergeant  and  his  prisoners.  The 
appearance  of  the  desperadoes  was  shocking. 
The  heads  of  both  were  swathed  in  soiled  and 
bloody  cloth  and  the  older  of  the  two  was 
badly  cut  about  the  body.  They  had,  it  ap- 
pears, been  captured  by  the  native  police  of 
San  Joaquin  after  a  hard  fight  in  a  ladrone 
barrio  in  the  foothills.  These  mountain  bri- 
gands are  cordially  hated  by  the  village  people 
and  they  had  been  badly  knifed  in  the  struggle 


go     The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


and  badly  treated  after  capture.  The  skin  was 
chafed  from  the  neck  and  wrist  of  one  and  the 
hair  of  the  other  was  a  clotted  mass  of  filth 
and  blood.  They  had  been  held  in  the  native 
guardhouse  at  Miagao  two  days  without  food 
or  water  and  when  we  fed  them  rice,  reached 
for  it  like  starving  dogs.  They  will  be  given 
treatment  to-night  at  the  Iloilo  hospital  if  the 
launch  gets  there  before  the  weaker  of  the  two 
expires. 

"TheC.  O.  at  this  place,  Captain  Barker,  act- 
ing major  of  the  district  between  Molo  and  the 
Antique  line,  is  a  splendid  man  for  the  place. 
His  district  is  in  the  most  satisfactory  condi- 
tion of  any  I  have  so  far  visited.  The  only 
disturbing  factor  is  the  ladrones,  who  are  left 
largely  to  the  tender  mercies  of  the  native 
police,  a  drilled,  uniformed  and  armed  detach- 
ment being  stationed  at  four  towns  in  the  dis- 
trict, scouting  and  patrolling  the  country  and 
guarding  the  town  gates  at  night.  Captain 
Barker  has  had  considerable  experience  in 
municipal  affairs  in  Rhode  Island,  and  his 
efforts  at  organization  here  have  been  very 
successful.  He  kindly  spent  the  greater  part 
of  the  afternoon  showing  me  his  books  and 
papers  and  explaining  his  methods  and  plans. 
Already  the  four  chief  towns  (or,  as  we  should 
call  them,  townships),  .San  Joaquim,  Miagao, 
Igbaras,  and  Guimbal,  the  second  with  a  popu- 


A  Patchwork  of  Journal  Pages  qi 


lation  of  20,068,  have  well-organized  municipal 
government,  Presidente,  council,  clerk,  school 
teachers  and  police  controlling  the  affairs  of 
each  center  with  but  little  friction. 

"The  question  of  'church  and  state'  has  been 
settled  with  unflinching  Americanism,  not  a 
'daku'  of  the  town  money  going  to  the  vil- 
lage priests.  General  elections  filled  the 
offices,  and  the  taxes  are  raised  by  the  officers 
thus  chosen.  There  is  as  yet  no  property  tax, 
but  a  surplus  over  all  expenses  of  local  admin- 
istration, which  include  of  course  the  main- 
tenance of  the  native  police,  shows  the 
excellent  condition  of  affairs.  The  Captain 
tells  me  that  the  American  officers  in  the  dis- 
trict, having  set  the  machinery  in  motion, 
hardly  do  more  than  keep  a  watchful  eye  on 
affairs  and  act  as  a  final  and  authoritative 
tribunal  in  extreme  cases.  The  'gift  system' 
of  Spanish  days  is  sternly  discountenanced,  the 
officers  (not  only  here  but  throughout  the 
island)  refusing  all  the  many  presents  proffered 
them  by  natives  who  have  'axes  to  grind.' 
As  these  gifts  range  from  a  few  simple  vege- 
tables up  to  a  fine  pony  or  even  a  pair,  the 
American  officer  deserves  no  little  praise  for 
his  self-denial.  In  the  good  old  days  of  the 
Spanish  occupation  to  attempt  to  secure  jus- 
tice from  governor  or  judge  without  first  warm- 
ing the  official's  heart  by  a  suitable  offering 


92     The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


would  have  been  as  foolish  as  to  expect  the 
blessing  of  a  stone  Butsu  without  offering  a 
plate  of  rice. 

"This  is  Holy  Week.  Before  my  arrival  this 
morning  a  procession  headed  by  the  padre  and 
composed  of  the  representative  men  and  vil- 
lage officials  of  Miagao  had  marked  the  begin- 
ning of  the  Passion  Season  by  solemnly  filing 
across  the  plaza  to  the  church.  Miagao  is  said 
to  be  the  most  populous  pueblo  on  Panay  and 
formerly  possessed  an  unusually  imposing 
church.  Two  Spanish  Jesuits,  always  pro- 
tected by  a  Spanish  garrison,  were  associated 
in  the  work  of  the  parish.  When  the  events 
of  the  late  war  compelled  the  evacuation  of  the 
town  the  friars,  knowing  that  to  remain  and 
fall  into  the  hands  of  the  insurgents  meant 
certain  death,  withdrew  with  the  soldiers. 
Before  doing  so,  however,  they  filled  the 
splendid  interior  of  the  church  with  combus- 
tibles, ignited  the  mass,  and  locked  the  heavy 
doors.  Then  entering  the  waiting  boats  they 
lay  to  off  shore  enjoying  the  pleasant  spec- 
tacle. The  insurgents  who  poured  into  the 
town  an  hour  later  found  all  efforts  to  save  the 
structure  unavailing,  and  only  the  lofty  walls 
remain  for  me  to  admire.  On  the  smoke- 
blackened  front  of  the  building  the  stones  are 
carved  in  a  most  curious  series  of  designs,  the 
chief  being  an  immense  man  with  the  Christ- 


A  Patchwork  of  Journal  Pages  93 


child  upon  his  shoulder,  tugging  at  the  stem  of 
a  palm  tree,  probably  a  St.  Christopher.  Clam- 
bering over  the  ruins  at  the  entrance  I  found 
the  interior  strewn  with  wreckage,  fragments 
of  tiling,  broken  marble  fonts,  twisted  iron  and 
shivered  carvings.  I  could  not  but  be  re- 
minded of  the  Iconoclasts  of  Flanders.  But 
this  furnished  no  parallel.  Here  was  a  work 
not  of  wrath  but  of  spite.  Jesuitism  ruined 
Miagao  to  build  this  church,  alienated  the 
people  by  continual  exaction,  stamped  out  in 
the  spirit  of  gloomy  Philip  every  spark  of 
intelligent  education,  turned  every  commercial 
venture  into  a  feeder  for  the  padre's  pouch, 
killed  activity  by  tax,  thought  by  edict,  and 
truth  by  superstition.  Then  after  years  of 
this  fine  business  the  holy  shepherds,  unwill- 
ing to  leave  to  the  flock  the  fruitage  of  their 
own  toil  and  sacrifices,  destroy  what  to  them 
was  no  less  than  the  temple  of  God,  and  watch 
with  grim  satisfaction  from  their  departing 
boats  the  tower  of  flame  and  smoke  which  rose 
above  the  grief  and  disappointment  of  their 
erstwhile  spiritual  children!  Such  an  act  was 
worthy  of  a  sect  that  descended  to  the  pettiness 
of  forbidding  to  the  common  people  the  privi- 
lege of  wearing  shoes,  made  an  immense  sum 
by  compelling  all  candles  to  be  blest  before 
burnt,  and  held  a  monopoly  on  women's  veils! 
As  I  viewed,  this  afternoon,  the  desolate  ruin 


94     The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


on  its  beautiful  site,  I  could  not  but  wish  that 
the  melancholy  mass  might  be  symbolic  of  the 
complete  destruction  of  all  that  is  coercive, 
bigoted,  tyrannical  and  superstitious  in  reli- 
gion. 

"This  parting  shot  of  Jesuitism  had  left 
Miagao  without  a  church,  and  a  long  bamboo 
frame,  patched  over  with  the  burnt  roofing  of 
the  destroyed  building,  is  compelled  to  meet 
the  demands  of  worship  and  ceremonial. 

"This  evening,  in  company  with  the  officers 
of  the  garrison,  I  reviewed  a  typical  religious 
procession.  It  started  from  the  make-shift 
church  at  dusk  and  beside  the  large  number 
who  directly  participated  it  had  drawn  out  an 
immense  crowd  of  spectators.  The  native 
padre  engineered  the  affair  and  acted  a  great 
deal  like  the  distressed  marshal  of  a  county 
Sunday-school  rally,  as  he  shoved  the  various 
detachments  ahead,  attempted  to  right  things 
that  were  going  wrong,  and  at  the  same  time 
preserve  the  dignity  necessary  for  such  a 
solemn  occasion. 

"The  affair  started  out  with  the  little  boys  of 
the  town,  each  one  tricked  out  in  his  best, 
carrying  tapers  and  marching  in  single  file  at 
either  side  of  the  street.  Well  toward  the  head 
of  this  juvenile  advance  and  between  its  two 
lines  stalked  a  fatherly  parishioner  in  top-hat, 
black  dress-coat   and  white   trousers.  The 


A  Patchwork  of  Journal  Pages  95 


supply  of  boys  becoming  exhausted,  the  pro- 
cession was  continued  by  the  little  girls,  each 
in  a  fancy  dress  with  a  train  and  high-heeled 
slippers  and  consequent  vanity  very  apparent. 
But  this  time  the  padre  saw  fit  to  punctuate  the 
line  by  a  candle-decked  float — an  image  of  the 
Saviour  carried  upon  the  shoulders  of  a  num- 
ber of  faithful  adults.  In  its  rear  the  local 
damsels  flaunted  black  silk  skirts,  pina  waists 
and  cream  mantillas  before  our  eyes,  and  car- 
ried their  long  tapers  with  a  fairly  graceful  air. 
More  floats  appeared,  'Christ  in  the  Soldier's 
Cloak,'  and  'Christ  Bearing  His  Cross,'  the 
latter  accompanied  by  twelve  old  men  dressed 
as  monks  to  represent  the  twelve  apostles(!), 
one  amongst  them  ostentatiously  dangling  a 
huge  Petrine  key.  The  older  people  now  fell 
into  line  and  streamed  by,  and  the  native  band, 
which  had  been  playing  at  the  church  door, 
fell  in  before  a  huge  float  covered  with  glass 
globes  and  surmounted  by  an  image  of  the 
Virgin  Mary.  A  native  choir  of  boys  followed 
singing  Latin  hymns,  and  last,  in  a  hollow 
square  of  young  Visayan  dandies  attired  in 
evening  dress,  came  the  padre  himself,  with 
his  best  black  gown  well  sprinkled  with  golden 
ornament  and  his  holy  eyes  flitting  from  the 
open  missal  in  his  hand  to  the  admiring  people 
along  the  route.  The  blue  uniforms  of  the 
police  closed  up  the  affair. 


96     The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


"After  passing  us  the  procession  descended 
into  the  quickly-gathering  shades  of  the  lower 
town.  Going  around  the  plaza  we  awaited  its 
reappearance,  and  had  the  privilege  of  seeing 
it  come  back  toward  us  in  two  long  undulating 
lines  of  waving,  shimmering,  blinking  lights, 
the  tapers  all  stars,  the  floats  all  constellations, 
the  band  still  bravely  blowing,  and  the  police 
marching  by  fours  and  fairly  prancing,  while 
above  our  heads  in  the  bell-tower  of  the  ruined 
church  vigorous  natives  rattled  bamboo  clap- 
pers with  diabolic  skill. 

"To-morrow  and  the  next  day  (Easter)  will 
be  great  occasions.  Ripples  of  fire  will  run 
from  the  altar  out  over  the  tapers  of  immense 
congregations,  girls  dressed  as  angels  will  sing 
from  bamboo  stands,  flowers  will  be  scattered, 
more  processions  formed,  and  last  of  all,  the 
bells,  prohibited  from  Thursday  to  Sunday, 
will  ring  out  the  Easter  joy.  The  American 
band  will  come  up  from  Iloilo  and  play  on 
Easter  morning,  and  there  will  be  cockfights, 
horse  fights,  bull  fights,  and  a  splendid  native 
spree  to  end  up  everything  on  Easter  after- 
noon. In  short,  a  regular  Fourth  of  July,  Rally 
Day,  Sunday-school  Picnic,  Torch-light  Proces- 
sion, Election  Day  combination. 

"Conducted  a  service  for  the  troops  immedi- 
ately after  the  native  procession  had  disbanded. 
A  pretty  bamboo   bandstand   on   the  plaza 


A  Patchwork  of  Journal  Pages  97 


served  for  a  pulpit.  All  men  off  duty  present 
and  a  large  crowd  of  natives  in  addition.  Left 
reading  and  writing  material  in  the  hands  of 
the  orderly-sergeant  to  distribute  as  the  men 
had  need. 

"Gtdmbal,  April  ij. — Left  Miagao  at  1:30 
p.m.,  and  walked  to  this  post.  Eight  miles  in 
the  hottest  part  of  the  day  and  the  hottest 
season  of  the  year.  The  sun's  power  is  beyond 
the  telling.  I  had  hardly  stepped  into  the 
dusty  road  before  my  shoes  seemed  on  fire. 
Tried  the  sea-beach  for  relief,  but  found  it  too 
circuitous.  All  the  natives  along  the  route 
fast  asleep  under  the  palms.  The  seashore 
from  Miagao  to  Guimbal  is  dotted  with  the 
huts  of  the  salt-makers  and  fishermen,  half 
hidden  in  the  edge  of  luxuriant  palms.  Waded 
first  river  and  was  carried  by  two  natives  across 
the  second.  Entered  Guimbal  at  5  o'clock, 
both  dirty  and  tired.  The  garrison  consists  of 
a  detachment  of  eighteen  men  under  a  ser- 
geant, occupying  a  roomy  old  stone  convento 
built  against  the  church.  Heartily  received 
and  invited  to  a  very  welcome  supper  of  excel- 
lent coffee  and  pan-cakes.  I  find  my  usual 
service  impracticable  here,  a  large  Good  Fri- 
day procession  of  natives  filling  the  evening. 
Much  the  same  as  that  of  last  night  at  Miagao. 
Being  the  day  of  the  Saviour's  death,  however, 
black  predominated.     The  native  band  ap- 


q8     The  Cross  of  Christ  tn  Bolo-Land 


peared  in  white  suits  trimmed  with  crepe,  the 
ladies'  veils  were  confined  to  the  sombre 
color,  and  even  the  lamps  on  the  floats  were 
tied  with  black  ribbon.  As  the  procession 
formed,  the  native  drummer  rumbled  out  the 
long  roll.  Guimbal  is  not  a  large  town,  but 
fully  3,000  men,  women  and  children  were  in 
line.  To-night  I  have  a  room  to  myself,  a  cot 
and  blanket,  yea,  and  a  pillow.  As  I  write  this 
entry  at  my  candle,  bands  of  children  are  still 
carrying  torches  about  the  plaza  from  one  ex- 
temporized shrine  to  another.  I  understand 
the  exercises  continue  in  some  shape  all  night. 
The  awful  clapper  still  continues. 

''On  the  Road  to  Tig-banan,  April  14,  8:20  a.  m. 
— Am  resting  on  the  top  of  an  old  stone  watch- 
tower  on  the  seashore.  It  appears  to  have 
been  erected  as  a  protection  to  the  fisher  folk 
in  the  old  days  of  Moro  piracy.  The  top  is 
attained  by  means  of  a  bamboo  ladder  some 
forty  feet  in  length,  and  from  it  the  view  up 
and  down  the  coast  and  out  over  the  sea  is  ex- 
cellent. There  are  a  number  of  fishing  boats 
off  shore  as  I  write.  It  is  not  hard  for  fancy 
to  bring  up  a  pirate  'proa'  over  the  horizon 
line  from  Mindanao,  and  reconstruct  old  days 
of  pillage  and  murder.  There  are  several  of 
these  rude  defences  on  the  southern  coast  of 
Panay. 

"Leon,  April  14. — Reached  Tig-banan  at  11 


A  Patchiuork  of  Journal  Pages  gg 


a.m.  Only  four  miles  from  Guimbal  but  the 
heat  is  terrible  to  a  northerner  and  makes  the 
road  seem  very  long.  Many  natives  passing  to 
and  from  the  'fiestas'  and  markets,  and  all 
seemingly  peaceable.  Just  out  of  Tig-banan 
met  a  private  of  the  Signal  Corps  and  an  in- 
fantryman hunting  up  a  break  in  the  newly- 
constructed  military  wire  from  Iloilo  to  San 
Joaquim.  The  intention  is,  I  believe,  to  con- 
tinue the  lines  across  the  mountains  to  San 
Jose  de  Buena  Vista.  This  will  mean  a  great 
deal  of  patrolling  as  the  ladrones  and  insur- 
gents have  a  pleasant  way  of  cutting  the  wire 
at  two  points  a  quarter  mile  apart  and  then 
dragging  the  severed  section  off  into  the  jungle 
by  means  of  a  sturdy  carabao.  It  is  not  diffi- 
cult to  locate  the  'break'(!),  but  it  is  a  matter 
of  days  to  get  sufificient  wire  from  headquarters 
to  replace  the  missing  link.  It  is  even  more 
exasperating  when  some  sly  old  native  severs 
the  wire  with  his  bolo  at  some  point  where, 
instead  of  following  the  road,  the  line  runs 
through  the  thick  brush.  Such  a  break  cannot 
of  course  be  seen,  but  must  be /eU  foTy  and  the 
Signal  Corps  men  have  the  pleasant  task  of 
following  along  the  wire  for  miles  in  thorns 
and  thickets,  over  rocks  and  through  streams, 
dragging  their  extra  coil  with  them  and  all  the 
while  furnishing  an  excellent  target  for  foliage- 
hidden  riflemen  who  use  smokeless  powder  and 


lOO   The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


cannot  be  located  after  their  volley  has  been 
delivered. 

"At  Tig-banan  the  detachment  consists  of 
fourteen  men  of  Company  I,  26th  Infantry, 
Sergeant  Scott  in  command.  Pressed  to  re- 
main to  dinner.  Yielded  to  pressure.  Baked 
fish!  After  dinner  the  sergeant  entertained 
me  with  ladrone  tales  and  accounts  of 
recent  skirmishes  in  the  vicinity.  Left  at 
2  o'clock  for  Leon  on  foot,  in  company 
with  Private  Leary.  Stopped  to  secure  a  drink 
of  dirty  water  from  a  cocoanut  shell  at  the 
half-way  barrio  of  Cordova  at  3:  30,  and  reached 
Leon  about  5  o'clock.  The  distance  from 
Tig-banan  is  nine  miles,  the  road  rising  steadily 
as  we  got  away  from  the  coast.  Leon  nestles 
in  the  edge  of  the  foothills  and  is  very  pretty 
for  a  Filipino  town,  in  spite  of  a  dearth  of 
palm  trees.  A  hearty  welcome  was  given  me 
at  the  officers'  quarters  by  Captain  Greig, 
Lieutenant  Rice  and  Dr.  Tukey.  Greig  and 
Rice  are  Massachusetts  men,  while  Tukey  hails 
from  Maine.  As  I  was  New  York  I  received 
the  welcome  of  an  old  neighbor! 

"After  supper  and  a  little  base-ball  with 
the  men  on  the  plaza,  we  sat  in  the  win- 
dows of  the  roomy  officers'  quarters,  drank 
lime-juice  and  listened  to  a  concert  in  our 
honor  by  the  Leon  native  musicians — a 
village  band  of  unusual  merit.    The  charms 


A  Patchwork  of  Journal  Pages  loi 


of  a  moon -lit  tropical  evening  have  never 
been  too  strongly  written.  Given  a  soft, 
balmy  night  with  the  fragrance  of  the 
'ilang-ilang'  hanging  heavily  in  the  air,  the 
music  of  a  good  band  at  just  the  right  dis- 
tance, and  the  weird  frame  of  moon-lit  palms 
and  picturesque  nipa  houses,  and  one  is  almost 
ready  to  forswear  the  rugged  life  of  the  tem- 
perate zone  for  all  time.  The  surprise  of  the 
program  this  evening  was  the  concluding  num- 
ber. Captain'  Greig  had  a  week  before  called 
the  native  band-master  up  into  his  quarters 
and  industriously  whistled  into  his  ear  the  air 
of  the  '  Star-spangled  Banner.'  The  band 
had  apparently  practiced  it  in  secret  session 
all  the  week,  for  as  they  drew  together  for  their 
last  number  they  suddenly  swelled  up  into  the 
familiar  strains  and  played  them  to  the  end 
without  a  noticeable  error.  It  was  decidedly, 
appreciated  by  that  lonely  little  garrison  in  the 
foothills.  We,  at  the  windows,  clapped  our 
hands  and  dropped  down  what  little  silver  we 
possessed,  while  shrill  yells  of  approval  came 
over  the  plaza  from  the  barracks. 

"  'Taps'  had  hardly  been  sounded  from  the 
guardhouse  when  a  native  spy  (an  'amigo') 
came  in  with  the  report  that  Montor  del  Moro, 
a  desperate  character  who  with  a  band  of  cut- 
throats behind  him  has  been  harrying  the 
neighboring  barrios  for  some  months  past,  had 


I02    The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


been  located  in  a  certain  house  at  the  town  of 
Almodian,  seven  miles  to  the  northwest.  I 
gather  from  the  men  here  that  Montor  has  had 
quite  a  remarkable  history.  As  his  name  indi- 
cates he  is  not  a  Visayan  but  a  Moro,  being 
born  in  Mindanao  of  Mohammedan  parents. 
He  had  served  for  a  time  in  the  Spanish  army 
in  that  island,  but  deserted  to  join  the  insur- 
gents on  Panay.  After  the  capture  of  Iloilo 
by  the  American  forces  he  came  into  their  lines 
and  gave  himself  up.  Being  intelligent,  bold 
and  apparently  trustworthy,  he  was  given  the 
responsible  position  of  chief  of  police.  His 
pro-Americanism  lasted  but  a  few  months,  his 
restless  spirit  leading  him  into  the  Antique 
mountains,  where  he  soon  became  the  head  of 
a  band  of  outlaws  as  desperate  as  himself.  I 
had  been  shown  at  Guimbal  a  bloodstained 
wall  and  told  that  during  a  raid  on  that  town 
previous  to  its  being  garrisoned  by  American 
troops  he  had  taken  the  village  presidente's 
infant  child  and  dashed  its  head  against  the 
masonry  and  had  boloed  to  death  two  other 
children  of  the  same  family.  These  murders 
are  but  a  small  part  of  his  crimes,  and  he  has 
terrorized  all  but  the  boldest.  American 
scouting  parties  and  patrols  have  pressed  him 
hard  on  several  occasions.  Four  days  ago  a 
squad  of  infantrymen  under  a  non-commis- 
sioned officer  even  succeeded  in  surrounding  a 


A  Patchwork  of  Journal  Pages  103 


house  in  which  he  was  hiding,  but  leaping 
boldly  from  the  window,  unharmed  by  their 
shots,  he  escaped  safely  to  the  brush. 

"Upon  hearing  the  report  of  the  spy,  Captain 
Greig  and  a  dozen  mounted  men  immediately 
started  out  to  round  him  up.  I  was  too  tired 
to  accept  the  Captain's  offer  of  a  mount  and  a 
share  in  the  evening's  adventure. 

''Leon,  April  75. — Early  this  morning  the  de- 
tachment returned  entirely  successful.  The 
barrio  had  been  raided,  the  house  surrounded, 
the  doors  battered  in,  the  place  searched  and 
the  bandit  dragged  out  from  under  the  fire- 
place. Montor's  presence  in  the  house  and 
without  his  followers  was  explained  by  the 
fact  that  the  searching  party  also  found  his 
wife  and  father-in-law  in  the  same  building. 
The  woman  was  very  ill,  having  given  birth  to 
a  child  but  a  few  days  before,  and  Greig  was 
much  touched  by  the  anguish  she  showed  at  her 
husband's  capture.  Montor  and  his  father-in- 
law  were  both  brought  in  with  the  detachment 
and  placed  in  the  guard-house.  In  company 
with  Lieutenant  Rice  I  wont  over  to  see  the 
man  who  could  equal  a  Mohawk  in  ferocity 
and  yet  run  his  neck  into  a  noose  to  comfort  his 
sick  wife.  He  proved  to  be  far  from  ugly  in 
appearance,  and  to  judge  by  his  looks  (a  poor 
way  to  judge  a  Filipino)  not  more  than  thirty 
years  of  age.    A  quite  prepossessing  manner, 


I04    The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


smooth  face  and  sturdy  build.  The  father-in- 
law,  a  slight,  stooped,  grey-haired  man,  is 
suffering  badly  from  beri-beri,  and  remained 
lying  down  while  the  Lieutenant  and  I  talked 
with  his  son-in-law. 

"Service  for  the  men  of  the  company  to-day 
at  4  o'clock.  The  three  officers  of  the  garri- 
son and  all  men  off  duty  present — some  sixty 
in  all.  The  Captain  has  granted  the  use  of  a 
large  room  for  social  purposes  during  the  rainy 
season.  I  will  forward  from  Iloilo  upon  my 
return  such  supplies  as  I  can  spare  to  assist  in 
fitting  it  up.  The  final  religious  processions 
of  Holy  Week  were  held  to-day.  Hundreds  of 
red  and  purple  dresses  as  a  sign  of  Easter  joy. 
The  humble  American  Easterbonnet  withers 
in  comparison.  One  saffron-yellow  skirt  pat- 
terned with  red  splashes  will  always  be  a  bright 
spot  in  my  memory!  Neither  Joseph  nor  Solo- 
mon could  have  matched  the  goods. 

"Tried  the  Krag-Jorgensen  rifle  on  the  garri- 
son range  to-day.  An  excellent  shooting  gun, 
almost  no  recoil,  easily  handled  and  rapidly 
fired.  Leave  to-night  for  Iloilo  in  company 
with  a  guard  of  sixteen  men  who  will  escort 
Montor  del  Moro  and  his  father-in-law  to  the 
strong  walls  of  Fort  Iloilo.  The  Captain  has 
kindly  loaned  me  one  of  his  horses  for  the 
journey. 

''Iloilo,  April  ij. — Last  night  left  Leon  at  9 


A  Patchwork  of  Journal  Pages  105 


o'clock,  traveling  as  far  as  Tig-banan  in  com- 
pany with  Montor's  guard.  Those  of  us  pro- 
vided with  mounts,  a  sergeant,  a  private,  a 
Filipino  senor  returning  to  his  home  at  Tig- 
banan,  and  myself,  riding  in  advance,  found 
the  road  by  moonlight  a  very  pleasant  one. 
Every  shadow  was  sharply  cut,  and  the  palms 
and  bamboos  made  a  silver  and  black  lace- 
work  against  the  sky,  while  the  ridged  rice 
fields  stretching  away  to  the  indistinct  bulk  of 
the  hills  and  the  ripples  of  light  on  the  water 
as  we  splashed  through  the  fords  made  a  charm 
of  scene  to  which  we  gladly  yielded.  Best  of 
all  the  cool  night  air.  At  Tig-banan  I  left  the 
escort  and  pushed  on  ahead,  as  I  was  anxious 
to  reach  here  by  morning.  The  road  from 
Tig-banan  to  Iloilo  had  the  added  charm  of  a 
mysterious  moon-lit  sea  appearing  at  intervals 
through  the  arches  of  the  palm  groves,  with 
the  friendly  wink  of  a  revolving  light  flashing 
up  over  the  horizon  from  Guimaras  Island. 
But  while  the  scenery  was  pleasant  enough  the 
road  soon  revealed  serious  disadvantages  to 
the  lonely  traveler.  The  bridges  over  the 
numerous  streams  are  often  missing,  and  the 
rice-workers  and  fishermen  of  the  district, 
fearful  of  the  ladrones,  have  gathered  in 
closely-built  barrios,  each  surrounded  by  a 
forbidding  zareba  of  fire-hardened  bamboo,  and 
protected  by  gates  thrown  directly  across  the 


io6   The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


main  road  which  invariaoly  forms  the  one  street 
of  these  hamlets.  This  leaves  the  country 
desolate  and  forbidding,  and,  as  it  is  impos- 
sible to  ride  a  horse  through  the  surrounding 
rice  fields,  compels  the  traveler  to  arouse  each 
barrio  from  its  slumbers  in  order  to  continue 
his  journey.  Having  an  easily-frightened 
horse  who  sniffed  and  balked  at  every  unusual 
stir  in  the  gloomy  shadows  of  the  thickening 
groves,  my  peace  of  mind  was  somewhat  dis- 
turbed, and  I  confess  that  my  revolver  was 
hardly  out  of  my  hand  from  the  time  I  left 
Tig-banan  until  I  saw  the  sky  redden  as  I 
entered  the  outskirts  of  Molo.  Between  these 
points  there  are  neither  soldiers  nor  organized 
police,  and  several  of  the  barrios  have  an 
unsavory  name.  Being  neither  controlled 
from  Iloilo  or  Miagao  the  district  is  consid- 
ered good  ground  to  operate  in  both  by  the 
outlaws  and  the  insurgents  proper.  Fully 
twenty  different  gates  barred  my  way  and  had 
to  be  opened  by  sleepy  villagers  who,  but  half- 
aroused,  first  stared  through  the  obstructions 
and  fingered  unpleasant  looking  knives,  and 
then,  yielding  to  the  magic  of  the  words 
'Americano!'  and  'Pronto!'  clumsily  undid 
fastenings,  lifted  out  bars  and  shoved  the 
bulky  gates  jealously  back.  Then,  after  a 
hasty  inspection  of  their  appearance  to  satisfy 
myself  of  their  class  and  intentions,  I  would 


A  Patchwork  of  Journal  Pages  107 


ride  down  between  the  long  lines  of  huts 
toward  the  second  gate,  which  would  admit  me 
again  to  the  open  country.  From  the  moment 
of  my  first  hail  to  the  barrio  to  the  glad  mo- 
ment when  I  slipped  out  into  the  fields  again  I 
had  no  lack  of  dispiriting  dog  music — whines, 
growls,  howls,  moans,  hisses  and  yelps — all 
emanating  from  an  astonishing  number  of  nar- 
row-sided, pointed-eared  mongrels.  By  the 
time  I  reached  Oton  my  patience  had  leaked 
away,  and  when  one  cur  in  a  pack  attempted 
to  bite  my  horse's  foot  I  leaned  over  and  shot 
him.  I  got  little  satisfaction  from  it,  how- 
ever, as  my  horse,  frightened  by  the  report, 
threw  me  from  my  saddle  and  gave  me  a  lively 
chase  back  through  the  now  aroused  and 
heartily  amused  village! 

"While  being  conducted  to  a  ford  near 
Oton  I  happened  to  notice  the  scabbard  of 
a  war-bolo  showing  beneath  the  shirt  of  my 
guide.  An  order  having  been  issued  to  con- 
fiscate all  war-bolos  found,  and  arrest  all 
natives  thus  armed,  I  took  the  liberty  of 
persuading  the  man  to  part  with  his  weapon 
— which  he  was  somewhat  loath  to  do.  It 
proves  by  daylight  to  be  quite  murderous 
enough  to  hang  up  on  my  study  wall  in 
coming  days  and  inspire  thrilling  stories  of  its 
capture.  After  using  the  man  to  direct  me  on 
my  road  and  providing  myself  with  a  souvenir 


io8   The  Cross  of  Christ  tn  Bolo-Land 


at  his  expense,  I  hardly  felt  it  in  my  heart  to 
march  him  to  Iloilo  as  a  prisoner,  and  so 
turned  him  loose.  Iloilo  at  9  o'clock,  having 
spent  eleven  hours  in  the  saddle. 

"April  20. — Dr.  Monasterio  returned  from  the 
Island  of  Negros  to-day,  and  I  resumed  my 
Spanish  with  him.  He  finds  his  sugar-planta- 
tion deserted  of  its  hands,  and  its  hacienda 
burned.  He  will  leave  it  to  its  fate  until 
American  supremacy  is  established.  Am 
attempting  to  find  permanent  quarters  for  the 
Army  Association  here.  The  tent  will  be 
beaten  down,  I  am  told,  by  the  driving  rains 
of  early  June.  Rode  Hike  out  to  Jaro  to- 
day to  inspect  the  reading-room  at  that  point. 
Found  that  the  private  detailed  in  charge  at 
my  last  visit  has  been  transferred.  As  a  result 
the  room  is  untidy.  A  new  man  will  be  de- 
tailed to-day.  The  Jaro  garrison  seem  very 
appreciative  of  the  reading,  writing  and  game 
facilities.  New  lamps  have  been  hung 
recently.  Sent  case  of  supplies  to-day  to 
Pototan  for  reading-room  at  that  point.  Skir- 
mish north  of  Januiay,  on  the  road  to  Lim- 
banao.  Thirteen  Americans  wounded.  It  is 
quite  generally  feared  that  the  guerrilla  evil 
will  increase  as  the  rainy  season  comes  on. 

"April  22,  Sunday. — Attended  Mr.  Hibbard's 
English  service  this  morning.  Our  service  in 
the  tent  in  the  evening  largely  attended.  The 


A  PatcJnvork  of  Journal  Pages  109 


testimonies  in  the  after-service  were  excellent. 
Two  men  announced  their  decision  for  Christ. 
One  of  these  stated  that  his  decision  was  due 
to  a  word  spoken  to  him  while  in  the  hospital, 
sick,  discouraged  and  facing  death.  A  little 
message  from  one  of  us  had  brought  him  peace 
of  mind  and  heart.  A  sailor  from  the 
'  mosquito-fleet'  gunboat  '  Paragua'  gave  in 
some  ringing  words  on  resisting  temptation. 
The  Master  has  given  him  some  definite  vic- 
tories of  late,  and  his  face  was  shining  as  he 
spoke. 

"April  26. — Yesterday  morning  we  expe- 
rienced a  considerable  earth-shock,  my  quar- 
ters shaking  and  the  furniture  rattling.  This 
continued  for  fully  thirty  seconds,  and  was  a 
sickening  sensation. 

"Lieutenant  Plummer  wishes  a  permanent 
reading-room  opened  up  at  Miagao.  The 
troops  in  this  vicinity  are  being  shifted  about. 
The  battalion  of  the  44th  at  Jaro  will  soon 
leave  for  the  Island  of  Cebu,  a  detachment  of 
the  26th  will  occupy  Jaro  and  a  company  of 
the  i8th  will  reinforce  the  provost-guard  at 
Iloilo.  Upon  visiting  the  Brigade  Hospital 
this  morning  I  found  Wilhclm  of  Battery  G  at 
the  point  of  death.  He  was  discharged  from 
the  hospital  some  weeks  ago,  supposedly  well, 
was  placed  on  guard,  fell  asleep  on  post,  was 
sentenced   to    six   months    in   the  military 


no   The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


prison,  and  being  again  taken  sick  will  die  in 
the  ward  while  under  sentence.  His  nurse  and 
the  men  of  the  Hospital  Corps  speak  very 
highly  of  him,  notwithstanding  his  offence, 
and  it  seems  a  pity  that  he  must  go  into  the 
grave  while  under  disgrace. 

"April JO,  Monday. — Two  services  yesterday. 
At  three  in  the  afternoon  went  out  to  the  old 
Spanish  fort  on  the  point,  now  used  as  a  mili- 
tary prison  for  the  Department  of  the  Visayas. 

"A  large  number  of  native  prisoners,  includ- 
ing General  Garcia,  former  insurgent  governor 
of  Concepcion  Province,  occupy  the  barracks. 
There  are  also  some  sixty  American  prisoners. 
It  was  for  these  latter  offenders  against  mili- 
tary law  that  the  service  was  held.  The  men 
were  allowed  to  gather  in  one  of  the  large 
rooms  and  listened  earnestly  to  all  said.  Out 
of  the  sixty,  forty-five  were  men  who  had  been 
dishonorably  discharged  ('bob-tailed').  Every 
dishonorable  discharge  carries  with  it  any- 
where from  a  six  months'  to  a  life  sentence  in 
addition.  The  highest  sentence  in  the  audi- 
ence yesterday  was  ten  years.  There  is  some- 
thing unusually  sad  to  me  in  the  sight  of  these 
men,  whether  huddled  in  their  quarters  at  the 
Fort  or  working  on  the  hot  Iloilo  roads,  break- 
ing stone  under  guard.  They  are  largely  the 
dregs  of  the  army,  but  one  cannot  but  think  of 
the  fact  that  they  will  return  to  the  home-land 


A  Patchwork  of  Journal  Pages  in 


after  serving  out  their  sentences,  in  shame  of 
soul,  reaping  nothing  but  bitterness  and  dis- 
grace from  a  service  to  which  doubtless  at  one 
time  they  looked  forward  with  eager  anticipa- 
tion. I  will  attempt  to  make  these  meetings 
for  their  benefit  a  regular  thing. 

"After  our  service  was  over  and  we  had 
chatted  awhile  with  the  men.  Sergeant  Bartlett 
took  Mr.  Hibbard,  Dr.  Hall  and  myself  to  the 
ramparts,  where  we  examined  the  old  cannon, 
and  enjoyed  the  cool  breeze  sweeping  down 
the  Strait.' 


VI 

Ube  JSaptist  /IDtssion  tn  tbe  IDisai^as 


^^>)HE  point  upon  which  Iloilo  is 
built  lies  so  low  as  to  render 
proper  drainage  impossible, 
and  the  approach  of  the  rainy 
season  now  made  a  change 
in  our  quarters  imperative. 
During  the  wet  season  large 
sheets  of  water  cover  the 
streets  and  vacant  sites  for 
hours  after  each  downpour, 
and  our  tent,  having  no  fly 
and  being  provided  with 
no  other  floor  than  the  bare 
ground,  was  obviously  no  fit  headquarters  for 
the  Association.  I  had  been  looking  for  a 
suitable  building  for  some  time,  and  at  last 
was  able  to  secure  a  large  room  in  rear  of  the 
postoffice,  and  during  the  first  week  in  May 
we  transferred  our  furniture  and  remaining 
supplies,  lowered  the  tent,  and,  after  a  deal  of 
hammering,  scrubbing  and  sawing  found  our- 
selves under  a  good  corrugated-iron  roof  and 
ready  for  the  million  drumming  fingers  of  the 
first  heavy  showers. 


The  Baptist  Mission  in  the  Visayas  113 


It  was  during  this  same  week  that  we  were 
cheered  by  the  arrival  in  Iloilo  of  the  pioneers 
of  the  American  Baptist  Missionary  Union, 
and  at  our  first  service  in  our  new  quarters  the 
Reverend  Eric  Lund  and  his  native  helper, 
Senor  Manikin,  were  both  present.  At  my 
earliest  opportunity  I  visited  Mr.  Lund  at  his 
rented  quarters  on  Calle  Concepcion,  and 
learned  from  his  lips  the  very  interesting  story 
of  the  events  which  led  his  denomination  to 
take  up  work  in  the  Islands.  Mr.  Lund,  like 
Mr.  Rodgers  of  the  Presbyterian  Board,  was 
already  a  veteran.  For  twenty-two  years  he 
had  labored  as  a  missionary  in  Spain,  and  for 
the  last  half  of  that  period  in  charge  of  the 
Spanish  Mission  of  the  Baptist  Union.  The 
headquarters  of  the  work  being  at  Barcelona, 
Mr.  Lund  naturally  came  in  touch  with  some 
of  the  many  Tagalos  and  Visayans  who  fre- 
quent that  port.  Some  of  these  became  regular 
attendants  at  his  services,  and  among  others 
he  became  interested  in  a  young  Visayan 
named  Manikin,  who  deserves  more  than  a 
passing  word.  Manikin  had  come  from  a 
well-to-do  Visayan  family  in  northern  Panay, 
his  father  being  honored  with  the  office  of 
presidente  of  Ibajay,  and  had  determined  upon 
the  church  as  his  profession.  He  accordingly 
entered  the  Jesuit  Seminary  at  Jaro,  with  his 
eye  fixed  on  the  goal  of  a  pleasant,  indolent 


■  114   The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


parish  life.  After  finishing  his  course,  how- 
ever, he  became  dissatisfied  and  determined  to 
defer  taking  orders  until  he  should  have  visited 
Spain.  It  was  while  drifting  pennilessly 
about  the  port  of  Barcelona  that  he  providen- 
tially met  Mr.  Lund  and  became  interested  in 
the  Evangelical  Mission.  His  conversion 
soon  followed.  During  the  Spanish-American 
war  Mr.  Lund  was  able  to  make  a  flying  visit 
to  America,  and  in  conference  with  the  secre- 
taries of  the  American  Baptist  Missionary 
Union,  plans  were  at  once  formulated  for  the 
planting  of  a  mission  in  the  Philippines.  As 
the  disturbed  conditions  in  '98  and  '99  seemed 
to  forbid  the  actual  occupation  of  the  new 
field,  Manikin's  services  were  utilized  and  a 
tentative  Visayan  translation  of  the  New  Testa- 
ment begun  in  Barcelona.  This  work  of 
necessity  proceeded  slowly,  but  at  the  time  of 
Mr.  Lund's  arrival  at  Iloilo  a  considerable 
portion  of  the  Gospels  had  been  finished,  and 
a  number  of  Visayan  tracts  both  written  and 
printed  ready  for  distribution. 

Mr.  Lund's  plan  had  been  to  establish  his 
initial  work  at  Iloilo,  but  finding  that  point 
already  occupied  by  the  Presbyterian  Mission, 
he  determined  to  retain  his  house  at  Iloilo  and 
carry  on  the  translation  there,  but  to  open  up 
evangelistic  services  at  Jaro,  three  miles  to  the 
north.    Several  reasons  influenced  him  in  this 


The  Baptist  Mission  in  the  Visayas  115 


decision.  Senor  Manikin  had  received  his  edu- 
cation at  the  Jaro  Seminary  (now  occupied  by 
the  troops  as  a  barrack);  the  town  itself  was  one 
of  the  best  in  the  island,  and  contained  a  mar- 
ket, to  which  several  thousand  natives  gathered 
weekly;  by  occupying  Jaro  the  Presbyterians, 
who  had  an  out-station  at  Molo,  would  be  free 
to  work  from  Iloilo  to  the  west,  while  the 
Baptist  advance  would  naturally  be  to  the 
north  and  thus  avoid  all  possible  friction  and 
confusion.  Mr.  Lund  and  Manikin  therefore 
began  their  two-fold  labor.  They  earnestly 
resumed  the  writing  of  Visayan  leaflets,  and 
the  translation  of  the  Testament,  and  in  addi- 
tion opened  up  first  a  weekly  and  then  a  semi- 
weekly  service  at  Jaro.  I  was,  unfortunately, 
suffering  from  the  after-effects  of  a  severe 
attack  of  "dangue,"  and  was  unable  to  attend 
the  initial  meeting.  A  decided  interest  was  at 
once  apparent  among  the  people  of  Jaro  and 
the  surrounding  country,  and  not  a  few  of  the 
more  intelligent  natives  were  interested  enough 
to  frequent  Mr.  Lund's  house  at  Iloilo  as  in- 
quirers. The  majority  of  these  were  doubtless 
merely  curious,  but  others  were  deeply  inter- 
ested in  the  truth.  Two  things  greatly  mili- 
tated in  Mr.  Lund's  favor.  The  first,  to  our 
astonishment,  was  the  fact  that  he  was  slightly 
bald  and  somewhat  portly.  The  more  ignorant 
of  the  natives  had  preconceived  notions  as  to 


ii6  The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


the  proper  appearance  of  a  padre,  and  his  acci- 
dental tonsure  gave  them  confidence  that  he 
was  playing  a  genuine  part.  He  was  not  slow 
to  explain  that  his  likeness  to  a  Spanish  friar 
was  both  unintentional  and  distasteful! 

His  perfect  command  of  the  Spanish  tongue 
was,  however,  the  real  cause  of  his  immediate 
influence,  and  his  twenty  odd  years  in  Spain 
had  given  him  a  knowledge  of  the  Papal  sys- 
tem which  stood  him  in  good  stead  in  his  new 
field.  As  a  consequence  his  sermons  at  Jaro 
soon  attracted  the  presence  of  all  who  could 
understand  Spanish,  and  many  who  could  not, 
came  to  listen  patiently  to  Manikin's  transla- 
tions. 

The  work  in  the  New  Testament  was  of  the 
first  importance,  but  many  obstacles  prevented 
rapid  progress.  The  educated  Filipino  is  in- 
variably educated  away  from  his  native  tongue, 
and  Mr.  Lund  found  it  very  difficult,  even  with 
Manikin's  help,  to  secure  a  sufficiently  simple 
version,  one  that  would  be  intelligible  to  the 
common  people.  Then,  too,  there  is  a  con- 
siderable variation  in  the  Visayan  tongue. 
The  Visayan  dialect  of  Panay  and  Negros 
differs  materially  from  that  of  Cebu  or  Samar, 
and  even  in  Panay  itself  the  dialect  varies  in 
different  districts.  The  few  grammars  and 
dictionaries  prepared  by  the  Jesuits  were  of 
little  use  to  the  missionaries,  many  of  their 


The  Baptist  Mission  in  the  Visayas  1 1 7 


most  common  terms  being  either  obsolete  or 
arbitrary  coinages,  and  unintelligible  to  the 
people.  The  mixture  of  Spanish  with  the 
Visayan  complicated  matters  still  more  and  the 
utter  lack  of  native  equivalents  for  many  New 
Testament  expressions  and  terms  necessitated 
the  actual  making  of  occasional  words  and 
compounds.  For  instance,  I  have  in  mind  a 
futile  search  for  an  equivalent  for  our  word 
"justified."  The  consequent  coining  of  a  new 
yet  logical  word  was  not  a  matter  of  a  mo- 
ment's decision,  but  of  hours  of  study.  To  see 
Mr.  Lund,  Senor  Manikin  and  their  assistant 
Mata,  seated  at  a  table  littered  with  versions, 
lexicons,  grammars  and  notes,  poring,  discuss- 
ing and  copying  in  the  close,  hot  air  of  an 
Iloilo  June,  gave  me  an  increased  appreciation 
of  those  gigantic  labors  of  the  past  which  have 
given  us  in  the  present  nearly  four  hundred 
versions  of  the  Word  of  God, 

It  was  my  privilege  to  assist  in  securing  the 
services  of  a  native  reviser  as  Mr.  Lund 
deemed  it  necessary  to  secure  a  thorough 
revision  of  Manikin's  version  of  Matthew.  By 
inquiry  among  native  friends  he  found  that  the 
man  best  qualified  for  such  a  work  was  an  ex- 
captain  of  the  insurgent  army,  Fernando  Salas, 
then  incarcerated  in  Fort  Iloilo.  Securing 
permission  from  the  officer  in  charge,  wc  inter- 
viewed the  Captain  in  his  cell  and  found  him  a 


1 1 8   The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


very  pleasant  fellow.  He  laughingly  con- 
fessed that  time  was  hanging  heavily  on  his 
hands,  and  willingly  undertook  the  work  for  a 
consideration.  His  work  proved  satisfactory, 
and  not  only  Matthew  but  other  portions  of 
the  Testament  as  well  were  revised  in  Salas's 
cell.  Outside  of  Manikin  and  Salas,  Mr. 
Lund's  most  valuable  helper  was  an  old  school- 
master, Senor  Mata,  who  consented  to  leave 
the  interior  and  live  with  Mr.  Lund  in  order  to 
facilitate  the  work.  While  unwilling  to  accept 
the  Good  Tidings  himself,  his  hatred  of  the 
friars  and  padres  made  him  eager  to  assist  any 
movement  to  which  they  were  opposed.  He 
was  of  peasant  parentage  and  unusually  valu- 
able for  that  reason,  his  vocabulary  being  a 
simple  and  generally  intelligible  one.  The 
work  of  translation  had  hardly  gotten  good 
headway  when  the  native  priests  at  Jaro,  Molo 
and  Iloilo  began  to  threaten  dire  penalties  on 
all  who  should  assist  it.  This  raging  had  the 
effect  of  frightening  away  many  timid  sym- 
pathizers, but  Mata  and  Salas  remained  faith- 
ful, and  the  work  went  steadily  on.  As  I  write 
these  sentences  I  rejoice  to  be  able  to  state 
that  the  Visayan  Testament  has  been  com- 
pleted and  is  now  being  printed  in  Spain  under 
supervision  of  Mr.  Lund,  whose  ill-health  com- 
pelled his  return  to  that  country  in  the  summer 
of  igoi. 


The  Baptist  Mission  in  the  Visayas  119 


To  the  east  of  Panay  lies  the  beautiful  Isla 
de  Negros,  the  most  prosperous  and  peaceful 
of  the  Visayas.  From  my  quarters  in  Iloilo  I 
could  see  the  blue  peaks  of  its  graceful  moun- 
tain range  rising  into  the  air  beyond  the  low 
stretch  of  Guimaras  Island.  Already  Mr. 
Hibbard  had  traversed  the  Island  and  had 
selected  the  town  of  Dumaguete  at  its  south- 
eastern end  as  the  point  at  which  to  establish  a 
second  Presbyterian  work  among  the  Visayans 
when  additional  workers  should  arrive.  As 
the  Baptist  plan  had  also  included  the  occupa- 
tion of  some  point  on  Negros,  Mr.  Lund  deter- 
mined to  visit  the  northern  part  of  the  island 
and  look  over  the  ground  with  a  view  of  estab- 
lishing work  at  or  near  Bacolod,  the  capital. 
I  had  already  supplied  garrisons  on  Negros 
with  such  bundles  of  papers,  magazines,  books 
and  Testaments  as  I  could  spare  from  the  work 
in  Panay,  and  determined  to  make  the  trip 
with  Mr.  Lund  both  for  the  purpose  of  getting 
in  touch  with  the  troops  on  Negros  and  observ- 
ing the  reception  accorded  by  the  natives  of 
that  island  to  Mr.  Lund.  Securing  passage  on 
the  little  sugar  steamer  "Molefio,"  we  left 
Iloilo  for  Silay  on  the  6th  of  June.  While 
churning  along  the  Panay  coast  we  were  per- 
mitted an  interesting  sight.  We  were  some 
nineteen  miles  up  the  coast  from  Iloilo  and 
perhaps  a  mile  off  the  marshes  which  surround 


1 20  The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


the  important  town  of  Dumangas,  the  church- 
tower  of  which  alone  was  visible,  when  a  puff 
of  black  smoke  suddenly  shot  up  over  the 
marsh  and  spread  its  stain  in  the  clear  sky.  A 
moment  later  a  second  and  a  third  succeeded, 
and  I  knew  that  Dumangas  was  being  fired 
either  by  soldiers  or  insurgents.  Five  minutes 
from  the  first  appearance  of  smoke  the  entire 
coast  was  black  with  billowing  clouds  of  it,  and 
the  church-tower  was  flaming  luridly.  The 
authorities  at  Iloilo,  twenty  miles  away,  seeing 
the  smoke  and  thinking  our  little  steamer  had 
caught  on  fire  up  the  coast,  dispatched  a 
launch  to  our  rescue,  but  were  soon  unde- 
ceived. Upon  our  return  to  Panay  we 
learned  that  the  American  garrison  at 
Dumangas  had  been  surrounded  by  a  heavy 
force  of  insurgents  who,  after  a  fierce  rifle-fire 
of  some  thirty-six  hours,  had  compelled  the 
little  band  of  twenty  Americans  to  evacuate 
their  bullet-riddled  barracks.  In  dashing  across 
the  plaza  to  break  through  the  insurgent  line 
one  man  was  killed  and  others  wounded.  The 
little  band,  however,  fought  its  way  through 
to  Barotac  Nueva,  where  they  were  reinforced 
by  a  hundred  men  hurried  over  from  Pototan. 
Thus  strengthened  they  returned  to  Dumangas, 
recaptured  the  town  and  destroyed  it.  Du- 
mangas had  long  been  a  troublesome  place,  but 
it  would  probably  have  been  spared  had  not 


The  Baptist  Mission  in  the  Visayas  1 2 1 


the  returning  soldiers  found  the  body  of  their 
dead  comrade  lying  on  the  plaza  frightfully 
hacked  with  bolos,  a  piece  of  barbarism  not 
uncommon  among  the  Filipinos.  The  enraged 
men  immediately  spread  out  and  fired  the 
houses,  which,  dry  as  tinder,  fairly  exploded. 
There  had  been  a  stiff  exchange  of  shots  with 
the  insurgents  during  the  destruction  of  the 
town,  but  we  were  too  far  off  the  coast  to  hear 
the  firing. 

The  waters  on  the  western  coast  of  Negros 
are  too  shallow  to  permit  even  a  small  coaster 
to  fasten  to  the  wharves  except  at  flood  tide, 
and  we  were  transferred  from  the  steamer  to 
the  wharf  at  Silay,  in  small  boats.  After  a 
call  upon  the  officer  in  command  of  the  garri- 
son in  the  little  town  we  hired  a  native  bull- 
cart  and  proceeded  down  the  coast  to  the 
capital,  Bacolod,  passing  through  the  quaint 
little  pueblo  of  Talisay.  The  road  stretches 
along  through  a  perfectly  level  country  border- 
ing well  on  the  sea  and  lined  on  the  shore-side 
by  long  fenceless  sugar-plantations,  which  at 
the  time  of  our  visit  were  fresh  with  the  deep 
green  of  the  new  cane.  Back  from  the  road  at 
intervals  appeared  the  brown  roofs  and  chim- 
neys of  the  haciendas,  and  far  over  the  spread- 
ing fields  the  foot-hills  rolled  up,  clothed  in 
heavy  tangled  growth  and  terminating  in  three 
stately  blue  peaks,  around  which  the  clouds 


122   The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


were  settling.  The  shadows  of  the  late  after- 
noon stretched  in  long  reaching  fingers  from 
every  isolated  group  of  palm  and  bamboo. 

Bacolod  at  7  o'clock  and  into  the  local 
"fonda"  (hotel)  for  the  night.  A  Filipino  of 
some  intelligence  kept  the  place,  and  several 
American  officers  found  his  fare  sufficiently 
good  to  coax  them  away  from  their  mess,  but 
Filipino  cooking  has  no  delight  for  me,  and  I 
had  a  scanty  time  for  the  three  days  of  our 
stay  with  mine  host.  To  his  surprise  I  dodged 
all  his  elaborate  creations  and  subsisted  on 
rice,  bananas  and  guava  jelly.  The  room 
assigned  to  us  for  sleeping  quarters  contained 
two  stiff  bamboo  benches  for  beds,  but  neither 
blankets  nor  pillows,  towels  nor  soap.  To 
add  to  our  discomfort  even  the  few  snatches  of 
sleep  that  our  hard  beds  made  possible  were 
broken  by  the  irritating  grunting  of  a  large  and 
persistent  iguana,  which,  flattened  out  on  a 
beam  above  us,  defied  all  our  efforts  to  dis- 
lodge it. 

For  two  days  following  our  arrival  in 
Bacolod,  I  accompanied  Mr.  Lund  about  the 
town,  meeting  the  newly-elected  governor  of 
the  island,  the  "cacique"  and  many  other 
prominent  natives,  as  well  as  visiting  the  sol 
diers  of  the  Sixth  Infantry  in  the  barracks  and 
the  patients  in  the  District  Hospital.  As  Mr. 
Lund  had  brought  with  him  a  supply  of  Visayan 


The  Baptist  Mission  in  the  Visayas  123 


tracts,  he  was  able  to  secure  no  little  interest 
both  among  the  Spanish-speaking  planters  and 
their  more  ignorant  cane-workers.  The 
American  General  then  in  command  of  Negros 
had  his  headquarters  at  Bacolod  and  was  a 
pronounced  Romanist.  The  Filipino  churches 
are  rarely  supplied  with  benches,  and  the 
General  was  at  pains  to  have  a  pew  constructed 
for  his  use  in  the  local  edifice  and  attended 
mass  regularly.  I  rather  anticipated  that  Mr. 
Lund's  religious  conversations  in  the  homes  of 
the  natives  and  his  tract  distribution  might 
cause  some  trouble,  but  the  General  proved 
either  oblivious  or  tolerant.  I  had  arranged 
to  conduct  a  service  in  the  large  store-room 
beneath  the  hospital  on  the  third  night  of  our 
stay,  and  Mr.  Lund  received  permission  to 
invite  the  natives  to  the  same  place  directly 
following  our  service  and  to  address  them 
there.  A  number  of  officers  and  men  inter- 
ested themselves  in  getting  the  place  in  shape, 
arranging  for  the  lighting  and  seating.  I 
began  my  service  at  6:  30  and  closed  an  hour 
later.  Immediately  a  large  number  of  the 
well-to-do  Filipinos  of  the  town  flowed  in 
and  refilled  the  room  to  its  utmost  capacity. 
They  were  of  both  sexes  and  dressed  in  their 
best,  many  driving  up  to  the  door  in  "calesas." 
After  lome  preliminaries  Mr.  Lund  arose  and 
gave  the  first  Gospel  proclamation  ever  heard 


1 24   The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


on  the  Island  since  the  hand  of  Omnipotence 
formed  its  hills.  The  address  was  an  exposition 
of  the  Parable  of  the  Prodigal  Son,  and  by  his 
excellent  Castilian,  clear  reasoning  and  in- 
tense earnestness  Mr.  Lund  seemed  to  carry 
his  audience  away,  many  responding  to  his 
more  telling  points  with  afifirmatory  ejacula- 
tions. At  the  close  of  the  service  the  preacher 
was  compelled  to  hold  quite  a  levee,  being 
urged  by  many  not  merely  to  repeat  his  visit 
to  Bacolod,  but  to  make  the  town  his  perma- 
nent residence.  He  was  even  assured  that,  as 
the  local  padre  seldom  condescended  to  pre- 
pare a  sermon  for  his  flock,  the  church  would 
be  placed  at  his  disposal  whenever  he  wished 
to  occupy  its  pulpit!  In  fact,  the  propriety  of 
offering  his  pulpit  to  Mr.  Lund  was  actually 
urged  some  days  later  upon  the  padre  by  some 
of  his  prominent  parishioners.  We  can  imag- 
ine his  reply  to  the  audacious  committee! 

In  this  connection  let  me  say  that  I  have 
even  been  offered  by  certain  of  the  more 
ignorant  among  the  priests  the  use  of  their 
churches  for  my  services  with  the  soldiers,  but 
never  accepted  these  offers,  as  I  understood 
the  law  of  their  church  better  than  they  them- 
selves, and  beside  had  no  desire  to  be  under 
obligation  to  them. 

Having  thus  spied  out  the  Promised  Land 
Mr.  Lund  returned  with  me  to  Silay  on  the 


The  Baptist  Missio7i  in  the  Visayas  125 


morning  following  our  double  service,  having 
fully  determined  to  occupy  Bacolod  as  an  out- 
station  as  soon  as  his  Mission  was  reinforced. 
On  the  return  journey  to  Silay  we  created  quite 
a  sensation  along  the  road  among  the  poor 
people  who  were  going  to  their  work  on  the 
plantations,  by  handing  out  to  them  copies  of 
a  little  Gospel  tract  in  Visayan,  "The  Words 
of  Jesus  Christ."  Many  of  them  could  read  a 
little,  and  these  first  words  of  the  Gospel  in 
their  own  tongue  were  eagerly  perused.  Our 
"quilez"  stopped  often  while  Mr.  Lund  at- 
tempted to  drop  a  seed  thought  into  the  minds 
of  the  more  eager.  I  had  so  often  stood  help- 
lessly by  when  a  knowledge  of  the  native 
tongue  would  have  enabled  me  to  bring  light 
and  blessing  to  some  Visayan's  life,  that  this 
little  experience  as  a  colporteur  was  a  great 
pleasure  to  me. 

Upon  returning  to  Iloilo,  Mr.  Lund  at  once 
resumed  his  translating  and  preaching,  and  I 
my  work  among  the  troops.  In  the  middle  of 
July,  I  was  compelled  to  close  my  work  tem- 
porarily at  Iloilo  and  proceed  to  Manila  to 
assist  in  the  more  important  activities  of  the 
Army  Association  in  Luzon,  but  in  September 
I  was  ordered  as  a  witness  on  a  military  com- 
mission at  Jaro,  and  thus  came  once  more  in 
touch  with  Mr.  Lund  and  the  Baptist  Mission, 
and  noted  the  excellent  progress  made  in  the 


1 26   The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


three  months.  Being  requested  by  him  to 
address  his  congregation,  I  complied  and  ap- 
peared before  a  crowded  audience  assembled  in 
a  large  bamboo  "casa"  near  the  entrance  to  the 
thriving  market.  The  assemblage  consisted 
largely  of  the  poor  rice  workers  from  the  many 
outlying  barrios.  My  address  was  of  course 
in  English,  but  given  sentence  by  sentence  so 
as  to  permit  Pastor  Lund  to  translate  each  into 
Spanish  and  Mata  from  Spanish  into  the  ver- 
nacular. I  do  not  know  what  shape  my  out- 
lines of  truth  were  in  by  the  time  they  reached 
their  destination,  but  the  people  seemed 
gravely  interested  in  the  remarks  of  the 
"Americano."  At  the  conclusion  of  the  serv- 
ice a  band  of  natives  from  a  barrio  near  Santa 
Barbara  followed  Mr.  Lund  down  the  three  hot 
miles  of  road  to  Iloilo,  eager  for  a  second 
meeting.  They  were  not  denied,  and  on  this 
occasion  Mr.  Lund  surprised  them  by  singing 
a  little  Visayan  hymn  which  he  had  recently 
written,  and  set  to  a  familiar  Moody  and 
Sankey  tune.  It  was  pleasing  to  see  their 
delight,  and  it  was  not  long  before  they  were 
crowded  about  him  and  joining  in  the  chorus 
with  a  great  deal  of  gusto.  The  women  sang 
quite  well. 

The  work  at  Jaro  has  since  been  strengthened 
by  the  erection  of  a  commodious  nipa-and- 
bamboo  chapel,   a  permanent  congregation 


The  Baptist  Mission  in  the  Visayas  127 


gathered  and  a  regular  organization  of  Chris- 
tian Visayans  effected.  The  Mission  had,  and 
doubtless  still  has,  petty  persecutions  to 
endure.  A  serious  blow  was  dealt  the  work  by 
the  murder  of  the  old  school-master  Mata,  who 
was  set  upon  by  unknown  assailants  near  Min- 
durriao  and  fatally  knifed,  supposedly  because 
of  his  identification  with  the  Protestant  work. 
Both  Mr.  Lund  and  Sefior  Manikin  (and  Mr. 
Hibbard  as  well)  received  numerous  threats  of 
violence,  and  the  country  people  who  were 
most  faithful  in  their  attendance  at  the  services 
were  warned  to  abandon  the  practice  or  expect 
to  have  their  houses  burned  over  them.  The 
last  word,  however,  is  one  of  peace,  as  Panay 
is  largely  tranquil  at  the  present  time,  and 
both  Baptist  and  Presbyterian  work  going  on 
almost  unhindered.  Over  the  pulpit  of  the 
Jaro  chapel,  the  first  Protestant  structure  to  be 
erected  in  the  Visayas  and  the  second  in  the 
Archipelago,  is  a  rude  motto  in  the  native 
dialect,  which  is  not  only  a  reassuring  state- 
ment, but  an  infallible  prophecy  of  great  future 
blessing  to  the  Visayans,  "Ginawali  Namon  Si 
Christo," — or,  as  we  have  long  been  familiar 
with  it,  "We  Preach  Christ  Crucified^ 


VII 

an  Interview  witb  tbe  Enemp 


*Y  last  weeks  on  Panay  found  their 
reflection  in  the  following 
entries  in  my  notebook: 

" Iloilo,  June  12. — The  rains 
are  now  very  heavy  and  fre- 
quent. As  I  write  this  line 
the  roof  above  me  is  thun- 
dering in  response  to  a  rat- 
tling shower.  The  clouds 
gather  quickly,  discharge 
.rv^,  heavily  and  then  —  the  sce- 

~  nery  shifting — the  sun  blazes 

down  on  the  \%  atery  streets  and  draws  the  mois- 
ture out  of  the  puddles  and  the  energy  out  of 
us.  The  atmosphere  is  very  humid  and  ener- 
vating, and  reminds  us  of  the  little  girl's 
complaint,  'It  isn't  the  hotness  I  mind  so 
much,  mamma,  but  the  "wetness  of  the  hotness!'* 

*  A  graphic  idea  of  weather  conditions  about  this  time 
in  the  year  can  be  obtained  by  perusing  the  entries  of  a 
week  in  a  friend's  diary: 

"June  10 — Rain  in  the  morning  till  10  a.m. — clouds 
with  occasional  showers. 

"June  II — Rained  all  day.    Thunder  and  lightning. 

"June  12 — Raining  still. 

"June  13 — Water  atx>ut  18  in.  deep  on  the  level.  Life 
preservers  used  by  ladies  for  shopping  purposes. 

128 


An  Interview  with  the  Enemy  129 


New  men  are  now  being  landed,  recruits  to 
fill  up  the  depleted  ranks  of  the  Eighteenth 
Infantry.  They  are  a  fine-looking  body  of 
men,  and  we  are  trying  to  make  them  feel  at 
home  at  the  Association.  Requests  for  sup- 
plies are  coming  in  from  Negros  and  points 
on  the  northern  coast  of  Panay.  We  are 
almost  at  an  end  of  our  resources,  but  have 
managed  to  do  something  in  response,  and 
have  given  a  few  supplies  into  Chaplain 
Easterbrook's  hands  for  distribution  in  Samar 
and  Leyte.  Chaplain  Randolph  of  the  Sixth 
Infantry  is  here  from  Damaguete  for  a  few 
days,  and  will  speak  at  the  Association  to- 
night. Will  arrange  a  service  for  him  at  the 
old  Fort  on  Lord's  Day.  Two  lives  are  flutter- 
ing feebly  to  the  brink  of  eternity  to-night  at 
the  hospital. 

"June  24. — Mr.  Lund  has  revisited  Bacolod, 
this  time  in  company  with  Senor  Manikin. 
They  were  most  cordially  received.  The  larg- 
est house  in  the  town,  [formerly  the  ofificial 
residence  of  the  Spanish  Governor,  was  opened 
for  them,  and  its  audience  chamber  crowded. 
With  the  exception  of  the  native  Governor  all 

"June  14— Fine  weather  again.  Street  sprinkler  used 
to  keep  down  dust. 

"June  15 — 'Hancock'  sails  to.JVmerica.  Wish  I  was 
going.    Fine  summer  weather. 

"June  16 — Rained  all  night," 


130   The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


the  leading  Filipinos  were  present,  the 
'cacique,'  the  wealthiest  man  in  the  place, 
being  most  active  in  their  behalf.  Three  serv- 
ices were  conducted  and  much  personal  work 
done.  There  were  several  promising  inquirers. 
Invitations  were  given  Mr.  Lund  to  return  and 
make  an  extensive  trip  down  the  west  coast  of 
Negros,  preaching  in  the  villages.  As  Mr. 
Lund  remarks,  'The  Island  seems  to  be  ripe 
for  Protestantism,  but  only  God's  grace  can 
make  it  Christian.' 

"Jidy  12. — Recent  mails  from  Manila  have  in- 
formed me  of  many  important  changes  in  our 
work.  Messrs.  Glunz  and  Jackson  have  sailed 
for  America  to  take  a  long-deferred  and  well- 
earned  furlough.  The  Ninth  and  Fourteenth 
Regiments  are  being  hurried  to  China  to  assist 
the  movement  against  Tientsin  and  Pekin. 
Dr.  Phipps  has  gone  with  them  to  open  up  our 
work,  first  at  Taku  and  later  at  Tientsin  and 
Pekin,  as  soon  as  those  points  are  occupied. 
Carlisle  has  returned  home  sick  some  months 
since,  and  Mr.  E.  W.  Hearne  has  arrived  in 
Manila  from  New  York  to  take  entire  charge 
of  the  Army  Association  work  in  the  Islands. 
Advices  from  Hearne  first  gave  me  to  under- 
stand that  he  would  visit  me  at  Iloilo  in  the 
near  future,  but  a  second  letter  informed  me 
that  the  departure  of  Glunz  and  Jackson  had 
left  his  hands  too  full  to  permit  of  his  leaving 


VISAVAN  AKCIIKK 


An  Interview  with  the  Enemy  131 


Manila  for  some  time.  This  information 
decided  me  to  accept  an  invitation  to  revisit 
the  garrison  at  Leon  and  deliver  an  address  on 
Independence  Day.  Finding  that  an  escort  of 
thr'^e  soldiers  was  to  go  over  the  San  Miguel 
road  on  the  morning  of  the  30th  of  June,  I 
determined  to  accompany  him.  As  I  had 
recently  disposed  of  my  pony,  the  four  of  us 
trudged  out  of  Iloilo  in  a  heavy  rain  and 
pressed  on  through  Mindurriao  to  San  Miguel, 
the  sky  clearing  as  we  advanced.  Having 
made  two-thirds  of  our  seventeen  miles,  and 
being  pretty  well  winded  by  our  struggles  in 
the  clay,  we  halted  at  San  Miguel  and  dined 
with  the  village  padre,  he  being  so  kind  as  to 
welcome  us  to  his  board.  We  resumed  our 
march  at  a  little  after  one  o'clock,  and  reached 
the  first  roll  of  the  hills  an  hour  later.  Aban- 
doning the  main  road  at  this  point  we  struck 
directly  across  the  ridge  south  of  San  Bias  by 
means  of  a  carabao  trail,  pausing  on  its  summit 
long  enough  to  enjoy  the  excellent  view. 
The  sun,  shining  on  the  white  stone  churches 
scattered  out  on  the  green  plain  over  which  we 
had  just  traveled,  plainly  marked  out  not  only 
San  Miguel  and  Jaro  but  Iloilo,  Molo,  Oton 
and  Santa  Barbara.  Across  the  Strait  of  Iloilo 
Guimaras  Island  stretched  out  like  a  relief- 
map,  and  still  farther  east  the  heights  both  of 
Negros  and  Cebu  were  clearly  outlined  against 


132   The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


the  horizon.  Descending  the  northern  face  of 
the  ridge  we  struck  a  second  road,  running 
from  Alimodian  to  Leon,  in  a  bare  cup-like  val- 
ley. Privates  Fish  and  O'Hearne  were  march- 
ing ahead.  Sergeant  Spencer  and  myself 
walking  abreast  a  dozen  paces  in  their  rear. 
Just  as  we  swung  fairly  into  the  road  and 
quickened  our  pace  for  our  last  four  miles,  a 
rifle  cracked  on  the  ridge  over  which  we  had 
just  passed,  and  a  heavy  volley  poured  into  us, 
both  from  the  ridge  itself  and  a  bamboo-lined 
ravine  directly  in  advance.  It  was  a  decidedly 
unpleasant  surprise,  and  O'Hearne  apparently 
lost  his  head,  as  he  disregarded  the  sergeant's 
order  to  stop  and  return  the  fire,  and,  leaving 
the  road,  ran  north  toward  the  hills  on  that 
side.  I  had  dropped  flat  at  the  first  report, 
immediately  beside  the  road  in  the  ditch. 
Fish  and  Spencer  ran  back  into  the  adjoining 
rice-paddy,  and,  under  a  fearful  fire  from  the 
insurgents'  magazine  rifles,  fell  down  and  re- 
turned the  shots  as  best  they  could.  Our  foes, 
keeping  under  cover,  and  well  armed,  kept  us 
close  to  the  ground,  their  bullets  cutting  the 
air  above  us  and  fluttering  in  the  grass  about  us. 

"Such  an  unequal  combat  could  not  be  main- 
tained, and  being  somewhat  more  exposed 
than  I,  the  two  men  ran  back  a  second  time, 
unknown  to  me,  to  obtain  a  better  position. 
By  this  move  they  secured  some  cover,  but 


An  Interview  with  the  Enemy  133 


were  both  wounded,  Fish's  right  forearm  being 
smashed  by  a  leaden  slug,  entirely  disabling 
him,  and  Spencer  being  grazed  on  the  hip.  A 
few  seconds  later  both  men  were  compelled  to 
surrender.  Hardly  ten  minutes  after  the  attack 
began  the  insurgent  bugle  called  'Cease  fir- 
ing,' and  a  moment  later  blew  the  'Advance.' 
As  they  came  out  of  their  cover  in  skirmish 
order  I  opened  fire  with  my  revolver,  causing 
those  immediately  in  front  of  me  to  hesitate 
and  the  man  at  whom  I  was  directing  my  shots 
to  dodge  in  a  way  which  at  any  other  time 
would  have  caused  me  a  good  deal  of  amuse- 
ment. But  while  my  fire  halted  the  men  in 
front  of  me,  the  wings  of  the  long  semi-circle 
came  steadily  on,  and  knowing  it  to  be  death 
to  remain,  I  rose  from  my  friendly  ditch  and 
ran  back  across  a  long  swell  of  ground  to  the 
right  of  the  road,  looking  for  Fish  and  Spen- 
cer. 

"This  movement  was  heartily  cheered  by 
the  entire  insurgent  outfit,  as  it  gave  them 
something  more  than  my  head  to  shoot  at,  and 
they  opened  with  their  repeaters  and  gave  me 
a  hot  fire  as  I  zigzagged  up  the  rise  to  discon- 
cert their  aim.  I  considered  this  zigzagging  as 
a  great  piece  of  strategy  at  the  time,  but  have 
since  been  assured  by  my  soldier  friends  that 
it  was  an  extremely  foolish  thing  to  do,  'For,' 
say  these  oracles,   'those  Khakiaks  can't  hit 


134   The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bob-Land 


the  broad  side  of  a  barn  when  they  aim  at  it. 
You  weren't  in  any  danger  as  long  as  they  shot 
at  you,  but  by  zigzagging  you  ran  the  risk  of 
running  into  their  badly-started  bullets!'  I 
was  surprised  to  find  myself,  however,  safely 
over  the  rise  and  without  a  scratch.  But,  not 
seeing  anything  of  Fish  and  Spencer,  and 
knowing  that  my  pursuers  would  be  on  me  in  a 
moment,  I  ran  over  a  second  swell  and  directly 
into  the  fire  of  a  flanking  party  which  had 
gained  a  position  on  my  left.  This  compelled 
me  to  take  another  angle  toward  the  west, 
where  I  soon  found  my  way  blocked  by  a  deep 
water-course  with  perpendicular  banks.  With- 
out hesitation  I  dropped  into  it  and  followed  it 
up  for  some  distance,  wading  through  the  foot  or 
two  of  green  slime  which  filled  its  bed.  I  was 
soon  compelled  to  abandon  the  'arroyo,'  how- 
ever, as  it  twisted  back  toward  my  pursuers, 
and  in  clambering  out  I  was  again  exposed  to 
the  attentive  rifles,  and  ran  desperately  toward 
a  ravine  some  distance  ahead  of  me,  which 
seemed  filled  with  bamboos  and  other  growth 
and  promised  a  hiding-place.  As  I  poised  on 
its  brink  and  was  about  to  plunge  into  its  grate- 
ful shelter  I  realized  that  my  last  hope  was 
gone,  for  in  its  bottom  I  made  out  at  least  two 
insurgents  poking  about  the  foliage  with  their 
guns,  and  knew  that  I  was  completely  hemmed 
in. 


A71  hiterview  with  the  Enemy  135 


"It  was  not  a  pleasant  moment  for  me. 
My  pistol  was  choked  to  the  muzzle  with  mud. 
and  could  not  be  fired.  I  was  too  exhausted 
to  attempt  to  run  the  gantlet,  and  I  had  known 
of  too  many  tortured  prisoners  to  relish  sur- 
rendering. It  seemed  to  be  a  choice  between 
being  shot  while  resisting  and  being  boloed  as 
a  prisoner,  and  I  naturally  objected  to  either. 
But,  remembering  that  there  is  always  a 
chance  for  a  prisoner,  that  occasionally  the 
insurgents  had  treated  their  captives  with 
courtesy,  and  that  if  wounded  while  resisting 
my  captors  would  probably  save  themselves 
the  trouble  of  transporting  me  by  a  stroke 
from  a  bolo,  I  fell  flat  upon  the  ground  to 
avoid  making  too  easy  a  target  and  waited  for 
the  circle  to  close  in.  This  was  done  slowly, 
as  none  of  them  cared  to  run  any  risk  where 
the  game  was  so  certain,  and  I  seized  the 
opportunity  to  rise,  first  to  my  knees  and  then 
to  my  feet,  with  my  hands  up  in  the  most- 
approved  wild-west  style,  and  shouted  to  the 
nearest  of  them  in  Spanish,  'Hey,  hombre!  no 
quero  mas  combate!'  (No  more  fighting  for 
me,  please.)  I  was  immediately  covered  with 
a  rifle  while  others  closed  up  and  searched  me, 
picking  up  my  revolver  from  the  ground  and 
rifling  my  pockets.  Spencer  had  given  me  his 
watch  to  carry  as  he  had  no  suitable  pocket  in 
his  blouse,  and  while  being  searched  the  time- 


1 36   The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


piece  nearly  cost  me  my  life,  for  as  I  stood  as 
quietly  as  possible  one  of  the  excited  Visayans 
felt  the  hard  substance  through  my  khaki  coat, 
and  thinking  that  I  was  concealing  a  knife  or 
second  pistol,  brought  his  rifle  up  against  my 
side  and  appeared  anxious  to  pull  the  trigger. 
The  Teniente  in  command,  however,  inter- 
fered, and  assured  me  that  I  would  be  treated 
with  all  courtesy.  I  was  at  once  marched  back 
under  guard  of  a  half-dozen  rifles  to  the  point 
where  the  firing  had  opened  up,  and  there 
found  for  the  first  time  that  both  Fish  and 
Spencer  were  wounded  and  captives. 

"We  at  once  bandaged  up  Fish's  arm  as  best 
we  could  with  the  contents  of  Spencer's  first-aid 
package,  and  as  he  was  losing  a  great  deal  of 
blood  made  him  as  comfortable  as  possible  on 
the  hillside  while  our  captors  either  crowded 
curiously  about  us  or  conferred  together  con- 
cerning our  fate.  I  was  badly  exhausted  by 
this  time,  both  by  our  long  march  and  the  ex- 
citement of  the  skirmish  in  the  hot  sun.  See- 
ing this,  one  of  the  insurgents  kindly  handed 
me  a  bamboo  joint  filled  with  muddy  water, 
and  as  I  buried  my  face  in  it  the  hills  of  San 
Bias  changed  to  the  heights  of  Olympus.  It 
was  the  draught  of  my  life.  I  could  appreciate 
for  the  moment  the  enthusiasm  of  Stevens, 
who  declared  that  the  quality  of  thirst  that  a 
man  could  raise  in  the  Egyptian  desert  justified 


An  Interview  with  the  Enemy  137 


him  in  braving  all  the  discomforts  of  the  cam- 
paign from  Cairo  to  Khartoum, 

"After  a  short  conference,  in  which  I  tried 
with  some  success  to  make  myself  understood 
by  the  insurgent  commander,  I  was  much  sur- 
prised to  have  the  band  decide  upon  our 
release.  They  turned  out  to  be,  on  close  in- 
spection, an  organization  known  as  the  'Jalen- 
doni  Guerrillas,'  some  forty  or  more  in  number 
and  largely  recruited  (so  they  said)  from  the 
Santa  Barbara  district.  They  were,  for  the 
most  part,  neatly  uniformed  in  dark  blue 
trimmed  with  red,  and  armed  with  quite  a 
respectable  array  of  Mausers,  Krags  and  Rem- 
ingtons, in  addition  to  their  indispensable 
bolos.  The  Lieutenant,  who  gave  me  his 
name  as  Concepcion,  expressed  much  surprise 
when  I  informed  him  that  I  was  a  'predicado' 
(preacher).  He  seemed  to  take  the  statement 
as  true,  but  apparently  had  decided  doubts  in- 
wardly as  to  the  propriety  of  a  parson  fellow- 
shiping  with  a  pistol,  for  some  days  after  our 
interview  he  removed  his  uniform  and  came 
down  through  our  lines  to  Iloilo  to  prove  the 
truth  of  my  statement.  Peeping  in  at  the 
Association  room  he  beheld  me  at  my  desk, 
and  departed  without  making  himself  known, 
satisfied  (as  he  himself  has  since  declared)  that 
one  'Americano'  at  least  had  not  deceived 
him! 


138   The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo  Land 


"Before  putting  the  decision  to  release  us  into 
effect,  Concepcion  wrote  a  courteous  note, 
addressed  to  Captain  Greig  at  Leon,  and  handed 
it  to  Spencer  to  carry  in.  In  return  I  scribbled 
out  a  penciled  statement  of  the  main  circum- 
stances concerning  our  capture,  and  added  a 
word  of  compliment  to  the  Lieutenant  and  his 
men.  This  I  handed  to  him,  to  serve  him  in 
his  report  to  his  superiors,  and  aid  him  in  get- 
ting courteous  treatment  should  he  ever  fall  in 
with  a  larger  body  of  Americans  and  our  posi- 
tions be  reversed. 

"We  were  then  bidden  to  depart  in  peace. 
Spencer  supporting  Fish  down  the  hill,  while  I 
tarried  to  shake  hands  all  around,  present  the 
Lieutenant  with  my  pocket  Testament  as  a 
souvenir  of  the  occasion,  and  bow  as  impres- 
sively as  my  muddy  clothes  and  battered  straw 
hat  permitted — my  own  hat  having  been  lost  in 
the  skirmish  and  a  native  affair  clapped  upon 
my  head  by  my  captors.  Upon  overtaking  the 
men  on  the  road  below,  I  found  Fish  too  weak 
from  loss  of  blood  to  allow  him  to  walk.  We 
assisted  him  along  until  a  bend  hid  the  insur- 
gents from  our  view,  and  then,  with  the  help 
of  some  peasants  who  gathered  curiously 
about  the  unarmed  and  bedraggled  'Ameri- 
canos,' we  tore  up  a  bamboo  rest-platform  and 
laid  him  on  the  improvised  litter.  The  load 
was  beyond  our  unaided   strength,  but  the 


An  Interview  with  the  Ene7ny  139 


'amigos'  cheerfully  assisted,  and  the  long 
four  miles  between  San  Bias  barrio  and  Leon 
were  covered  at  last.  The  jolting  was  hard  for 
Fish  to  bear,  as  the  splintered  bones  in  his  arm 
grated  badly,  and  he  found  it  impossible  to 
stifle  his  groans  until  I  placed  a  lighted  cigar 
in  his  mouth  and  his  teeth  clinched  on  it  with 
some  relief.  As  I  borrowed  it  from  the  mouth 
of  a  betel-chewing  native  and  puffed  it  into  a 
good  light  for  him,  I  consider  myself  worthy 
of  one  of  Raphael's  largest  halos. 

"Leon  at  5:  30  o'clock — our  arrival,  dirty,  dis- 
armed, dejected,  and  bearing  Fish  on  his  litter, 
causing  some  excitement.  Dr.  Tukey  at  once 
went  to  work  on  the  smashed  arm,  and  Spencer 
and  myself  were  given  an  opportunity  to  wash 
up.  We  had  hoped  to  hear  of  O'Hearne's  safe 
arrival  at  the  post,  but  were  disappointed,  and 
the  following  day  the  greater  part  of  the  garri- 
son was  out  in  several  detachments  scouring 
the  country  for  him.  I  was  too  much  tired  out 
to  accompany  them  on  their  search,  but  on  the 
2d  of  July  I  went  with  a  large  detachment 
under  command  of  Lieutenant  Monahan,  to  the 
scene  of  the  ambuscade,  and  beginning  on  the 
road  searched  the  country  back  among  the 
hills  for  several  miles,  questioning  the  natives, 
searching  the  barrios,  and  offering  a  reward  for 
news  of  him,  dead  or  alive.  We  were  unsuc- 
cessful, however,  and  we  are  without  word  of 


I40   The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


him  at  the  present  time.*  It  is  supposed  that 
he  must  have  met  his  fate  at  the  hands  of  the 
ladrones. 

"I  only  remained  at  Leon  long  enough  to 
deliver  the  promised  address  on  the  Fourth, 
leaving  the  following  afternoon  for  Tig-banan, 
accompanied  by  Sergeant  Sullivan  and  Private 
Stevens — the  three  of  us  mounted  on  good 
ponies.  Just  as  we  got  into  our  saddles,  word 
came  over  the  line  that  a  body  of  insurgents 
had  passed  Maasin  and   was   moving  south 

*0'Hearne's  fate  remained  a  mystery  for  some  two 
months.  His  body  was  at  last  discovered  in  a  pit  near 
San  Bias  and  was  only  recognizable  by  the  teeth.  As 
Spencer  had  been  very  intimate  with  O'Hearne,  both 
being  recruited  in  the  same  Massachusetts  town,  he  was 
able  to  thus  identify  the  remains.  Confessions  soon 
followed  among  the  natives  and  the  full  story  of  his 
death  came  to  light.  It  appears  that  he  safely  eluded 
the  insurgents  who  were  enveloping  us  but  had  been 
captured  in  a  ladrone  barrio  in  the  hills  while  inquiring 
the  way  to  Leon.  He  was  held  as  a  prisoner  for  some 
twenty-four  hours,  after  having  had  his  arm  wantonly 
hacked  from  his  body.  He  was  then  burned  at  the 
stake,  petroleum  being  poured  over  him  to  assist  in  his 
torture.  Fourteen  natives  were  implicated  in  this 
fiendish  act  and  were  confined  at  Leon  awaiting  trial. 
Their  gpiards,  however,  in  a  moment  of  uncontrollable 
passion,  opened  fire  on  them  and  killed  them  all.  The 
saddest  part  of  the  story  is  that  the  day  after  O'Hearne 
had  been  captured  and  before  he  was  tortured  one  of  our 
searching  parties  passed  within  a  few  yards  of  the  place 
where  he  was  lying  bound  and  gagged. 


All  Intei-vicw  with  the  Enemy  141 


toward  Igbaras  and  Tig-banan  to  attack  the 
weak  garrisons  at  those  points.  As  this 
meant  the  possibility  of  running  into  them 
on  the  Tig-banan  road — in  fact,  the  probability — 
we  galloped  all  the  way  from  Leon  to  Tig- 
banan  through  the  pouring  rain.  About  half- 
way down  to  the  coast  we  were  stopped  by  an 
'amigo, '  who  sprang  into  the  road  and  told  us 
that  the  insurgents  were  holding  the  barrio  just 
in  advance.  On  dashing  ahead,  however,  no 
enemy  was  found,  and  we  passed  the  gate  of 
Tig-banan  about  six  o'clock,  I,  for  one,  with 
considerable  relief.  My  friend.  Lieutenant 
Rice,  was  in  command  at  Tig-banan,  and  had 
his  fortress-like  'convento'  barricaded  for  the 
expected  attack.  After  getting  into  some  of 
his  old  dry  clothes  I  shared  a  good  supper, 
greeted  'the  boys' — only  eighteen  in  all — and 
went  to  sleep.  At  two  o'clock  in  the  morning 
the  expected  alarm  came,  the  sentry  under  the 
arched  entrance  firing  his  piece.  All  turned 
out  at  once,  but  found  it  to  be  a  false  alarm. 
I  was  too  tired  to  even  rise,  determining  to 
await  a  second  or  third  shot  before  leaving  my 
comfortable  bed. 

"In  the  morning  of  the  6th  I  started  for  Iloilo 
in  company  with  several  soldiers  and  four 
Filipino  prisoners.  We  at  first  thought  to  save 
ourselves  miles  of  weary  marching  by  confiscat- 
ing a  native  sail-boat.    But  when  off  shore  a 


1^2   The  Cross  c  t  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


quarter  mile  a  dead  calm  came  on  aind, 
although  the  native  crew  and  prisoners  fast- 
ened a  paper  charm  on  the  mast  and  whistled  a 
dolorous  wind-winning  chorus,  no  ripple  glad- 
dened our  eyes,  and  we  were  compelled  to  put 
back  to  shore  and  'hike'  to  our  destination. 
I  need  not  add  that  we  had  hardly  made  a  mile 
before  the  wind  began  to  rise,  and  less  than 
two  before  it  was  blowing  in  just  the  way 
best  calculated  to  send  a  boat  flying  down  the 
coast  to  Iloilo.  Trudged  into  Oton  at  noon 
and,  having  little  to  eat  with  us,  proceeded  to 
the  padre's  for  hospitality.  We  found  one 
padre  away,  a  second  (for  this  was  a  large 
ftarish)  ill,  and  the  major-domo  in  charge  of 
the  5f>acious  'convento'  declaring  that  such  a 
thing  as  a  chicken  was  be>'ond  his  means.  His 
almost  tearful  protestations  were  nicely  punc- 
tuated by  ihe  crowing  of  the  sacred  roosters  in 
the  enclosure  at  the  rear  of  the  house.  Belie\-- 
ing  from  what  the  'domo  had  just  said  that 
they  were  both  orphaned  and  ownerless,  we 
secured  se%'eral  after  a  sharp  fusillade,  and,  see- 
ing how  determined  we  were  to  be  friendly,  the 
native  servants  about  the  establishment  (and  a 
village  padre  always  appears  to  have  a  horde) 
speedily  furnished  the  accessories,  and  the 
seven  of  us  sat  down  at  the  long  parsonage 
table  to  a  very  substantial  meal.  Toward  its 
close  the  absent  colleague  turned  up,  and  see- 


An  Interview  with  the  Enemy  143 


ing  us  so  strongly  entrenched  gracefully  sur- 
rendered and  offered  cigars. 

"Late  in  the  afternoon  we  passed  through 
Molo  and  halted  long  enough  before  the  home 
of  Dr.  Hall  of  the  Presbyterian  Mission  to 
enable  Mrs.  Hall  to  review  the  prisoners,  she 
having  expressed  to  me  a  desire  to  see  some 
'real  insurgents'  some  time  before.  I  rather 
fear  that  the  group  we  were  guarding  was 
hardly  as  wicked  looking  as  she  had  antici- 
pated, but  she  covered  her  disappointment  and 
tried  her  newly-acquired  Visayan  on  them 
without  startling  success.  A  little  farther 
down  the  road  Private  Chatelaine,  of  the 
escort,  confided  to  me  that,  not  having  seen  an 
American  woman  before  since  leaving  the 
States,  he  was  not  even  able  to  understand  what 
Mrs.  Hall  said! 

"Iloilo  safely  reached  at  five  o'clock.  Re- 
ceived a  French  hug  from  Manikin  and  con- 
gratulations from  all  upon  my  escape  from  the 
insurgents.  During  my  absence  Mr.  Hibbard 
had  conducted  our  regular  services  with  great 
blessing.  Upon  looking  over  my  mail  I  found 
a  letter  from  Mr.  Hearne  at  Manila,  stating 
that  the  work  at  that  center  seemed  so  impor- 
tant as  to  warrant  the  temporary  closing  of  my 
work  at  Iloilo,  thus  enabling  me  to  proceed  to 
Manila  and  assist  him.  For  many  reasons  I 
hesitate  to  leave,  but  from  what  I  know  of  the 


144   l^he  Cross  of  Christ  hi  Bolo-Land 


situation  at  Manila  and  in  Luzon  the  move 
seems  unavoidable.  I  will  not,  however,  close 
up  the  Association  quarters  at  this  point.  Mr. 
Hibbard,  Mr.  Borree,  Dr.  Hall  and  others  will 
see  to  it  that  they  are  kept  open  for  the  troops 
and  services  continued  during  my  absence." 

As  I  sailed  from  Panay  for  Manila  on  the 
17th  of  July,  and  returned  to  Iloilo  but  once 
after  that  date  and  then  only  for  a  few  brief 
days,  I  feel  that  this  chapter  can  be  no  better 
ended  than  by  a  word  of  appreciation  to  the 
men  who  not  only  seconded  me  in  all  possible 
ways  while  on  the  Island,  but  carried  on  the 
Association  work  after  my  departure,  and  in 
fact  until,  months  later,  we  were  able  to  spare 
a  secretary  from  our  small  number  to  once 
more  do  field-work  on  Panay.  Hard-pressed  as 
Messrs.  Hibbard  and  Hall  at  all  times  were, 
they  never  failed  to  respond  to  any  demand  fot 
their  service.  The  soldiers  soon  found  them 
to  be  most  genuinely  interested  in  their  wel- 
fare. It  would  be  difficult  to  state  how  much 
the  Association  owed  (and  still  owes)  to  them. 

Mr.  James  Borree  was  another  man  whose 
steadfast  Christian  life  and  practical  help  was 
a  power  to  our  work,  Borree  was  formerly  a 
sergeant  in  the  California  regiment.  Remain- 
ing in  the  Islands  after  his  regiment  returned 
to  the  United  States,  he  was  given  a  respon- 


An  Interview  with  the  Enemy  145 


sible  position  under  the  Depot  Quartermaster 
at  Iloilo,  and  soon  proved  himself  invaluable. 
His  ability  to  handle  the  natives,  all  of  whom 
entertained  a  surprising  regard  for  him,  soon 
caused  the  authorities  to  give  him  the  difficult 
task  of  unloading  all  government  stores.  It 
was  my  privilege  to  live  in  the  same  house 
with  Borree  for  several  months,  and  his  manly 
Christian  character  was  an  inspiration.  In 
addition  to  Borree,  Hibbard  and  Hall,  gratitude 
compels  a  word  in  praise  of  a  large  number  of 
men  who  wore  the  army  blue,  fellows  whose 
earnest  lives  and  cheerful  help  will  not  fail  of 
reward  in  the  day  when  our  Lord  Jesus  Christ 
shall  come  to  reward  His  own.  Their  fellow- 
ship was  very  sweet  to  the  writer  of  these  lines. 
May  God  bless  them! 


VIII 

/IDanila  Bgain 


OUR  Manilas  sit  side  by  side  and 
front  upon  the  Bay.  Begin- 
ning at  the  north  with  Tondo, 
the  most  ancient  of  the  four, 
we  find  ourselves  in  a  trying 
pattern  of  dirt  streets  lined 
with  bamboo  houses.  Along 
its  water-front,  which  is  noth- 
ing more  than  the  natural 
beach,  maybe  generally  found 
a  fringe  of  large-sailed,  out- 
riggered  fishing  boats,  for 
Tondo  is  hardly  more  than  an  overgrown  fish- 
ing village,  and  the  only  relief  from  its  nipa 
thatch  and  primitive  sloops  is  found  in  its  large 
booth-lined  market-place  and  its  pretentious 
church.  On  this  crowded  site  where,  no 
doubt,  each  new  generation  witnesses  a  de- 
structive fire  and  a  new  crop  of  shacks,  General 
Legaspi  landed  in  1571  and  probably  gazed 
upon  the  same  prospect  that  the  quarter  pre- 
sents to  the  eye  to-day  (minus  the  church). 

An  advantageous  treaty  was  easily  made  with 
the  awed  king  of  the  bamboo  metropolis,  and  a 
mile  south  of  Tondo  the  Spaniards  laid  out  the 
site  of  their  new  city  and  named  it  Manila, 
146 


Manila  Again 


147 


running  its  northern  wall  along  the  Pasig 
River,  thus  placing  that  stream  between  them- 
selves and  their  Tagalo  friends.  Protected  by 
the  river  on  the  north,  the  sea  on  the  west,  and 
as  early  as  1590  by  a  massive  wall  and  deep 
moat  on  all  sides,  Manila  came  to  present  the 
curious  spectacle  of  a  medieval  feudal  city  in 
the  heart  of  the  tropics.  The  different  reli- 
gious orders  naturally  erected  their  massive 
churches,  monasteries  and  convents  within  its 
protecting  fortifications,  and  the  remainder  of 
its  space  was  occupied  by  the  palaces  of  the 
Governor  and  Archbishop,  the  offices  of  the 
colony,  barracks  and  residences. 

While  this  new  city  grew  up  out  of  the  marshes 
year  by  year,  the  space  intervening  between  it 
and  Tondo  was  naturally  encroached  upon,  first 
by  natives  and  Chinese  traders  who  were  not 
allowed  within  the  walls  and  found  their  most 
convenient  place  for  trade  and  commerce  with 
the  Spaniards  to  be  just  across  the  Pasig  from 
its  gates,  a  bridge  in  course  of  time  being 
thrown  over  that  narrow  but  rapid  stream. 
Later  on,  the  limited  space  within  the  fortified 
city  being  pre-empted  by  the  ecclesiastics  and 
officials,  such  Spanish  and  foreign  merchants 
as  desired  to  do  business  in  the  Islands  found 
it  necessary  to  erect  their  shops,  warehouses 
and  factories  in  this  new  quarter  and  build 
their  wharves  for  the  loading  and  unloading  of 


148   The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


hemp,  sugar,  tobacco  and  rice,  along  the 
northern  bank  of  the  Pasig.  Thus  Binondo 
was  born — with  its  Rosario  of  Chinese  shops, 
its  Escolta  of  European  stores,  its  tobacco  fac- 
tories, hotels  and  warehouses.  The  rise  of  this 
second  or  New  Manila  firmly  linked  the  two 
earlier  cities  together — only  the  narrow  Pasig 
and  the  ancient  walls  preventing  a  complete 
blending  of  the  three. 

While  the  necessities  of  trade  were  building 
up  Binondo,  the  love  of  pleasure  laid  out  a 
large  plaza  just  to  the  south  of  the  Walled 
City  and  ran  a  splendid  boulevard  around  both 
it  and  three  sides  of  the  city  wall,  and  the 
desire  for  comfort  led  hundreds  of  Spaniards 
and  foreigners  to  abandon  the  unhealthy  con- 
fines of  the  fortified  quarter  and  build  the 
pleasant  suburb  of  Malate,  which  runs  down  to 
the  Bay  shore  south  of  the  Luneta  and  com- 
pletes the  water-front  of  the  city.  In  time, 
too,  another  boulevard  was  projected  back 
from  the  Walled  City  to  higher  ground,  and 
along  its  curving  length  the  Governor-General 
and  high  officialism  reared  residences  and  laid 
out  spacious  gardens,  being  reinforced  by  the 
consuls  and  the  more  prosperous  of  the  land- 
holders and  merchants.  Thus  the  suburbs  of 
San  Miguel  sprang  up.  With  Tondo,  the  native 
Manila,  Binondo,  the  commercial  Manila, 
Manila  proper,  the  ecclesiastical  and  adminis- 


Manila  Again 


149 


trative  Manila,  and  Malate,  the  residential 
Manila,  all  facing  the  sea  in  friendly  touch  and 
backed  by  the  fashionable  quarter  of  San  Mig- 
uel, it  was  of  course  to  be  expected  that  nat- 
ural growth  would  add  other  suburbs  from  time 
to  time.  Binondo  overflowed  into  a  Santa  Cruz 
and  Sampaloc  and  Quiapo;  San  Miguel  went 
countryward  under  the  name  of  San  Sebastian; 
Malate  was  soon  jostled  byErmita,  while  thou- 
sands of  loose  human  units  settling  in  the 
interstices  sewed  the  whole  pattern  together. 

As  to  architecture,  the  Walled  City  is  stone 
and  tile,  no  bamboo  being  allowed,  and  little 
wood  used;  Binondo  is  stone  or  brick  on  its 
ground  floor,  wood  on  its  second  or  living  floor, 
and  mainly  roofed  with  iron;  Sampaloc  and 
Tondo  are  matted  and  thatched,  as  are  indeed 
portions  of  Ermita  and  Malate,  though  the 
greater  part  of  these  suburbs  is  of  more  sub- 
stantial build  and  contains  many  pretty  homes; 
San  Miguel  furnishes  some  pretentious  resi- 
dences, handsomely  ornamented  and  artistically 
set,  while  some  of  the  churches  and  religious 
houses  which  jostle  so  closely  in  Old  Manila 
are  grandly  heavy  in  style  and  richly  finished 
and  furnished  within. 

Having  thus  platted  out  the  city  in  mind,  the 
next  thing  will  be  to  make  our  idea  of  it  a  live 
one  by  dropping  into  any  one  of  its  many 
thoroughfares  and  struggling  on  the  narrow 


1 50   The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


side-walks  with  Tagalos,  Spaniards,  Chinos, 
Teutons,  Saxons,  Latins  and  the  Omnipresent 
Khaki  Uniform,  or  in  the  streets  with  carabao- 
carts,  bull-carts,  mule  teams,  ambulances, 
quilezes,  carramattas,  calesas,  trams,  crams 
and  jams!  Such  an  experience  will  aid  us  in 
singing  the  plaintive  soldier's  ballad: 

"Take  me  back  to  Old  Manila 

With  its  fern-clad  walls  and  moat. 
Give  me  fifteen  per  and  rations, 
Cartridge  belt  and  rubber  coat. ' ' 

But  we  have  tarried  in  the  realm  of  poor  de- 
scription long  enough,  and  must  get  to  work. 
As  already  stated,  the  Association  headquarters 
were  located  at  the  old  Cuartel  Fortin,  on  the 
bank  of  the  Pasig,  just  at  the  Bridge  of  Spain 
and  immediately  without  the  Parian  Gate  of 
the  Walled  City.  A  better  situation  could  not 
have  been  desired,  as  the  Bridge  of  Spain  was 
the  most  traveled  of  the  three  which  span  the 
river,  and  was,  indeed,  the  main  link  between 
Old  and  New  Manila  with  their  respective 
suburbs.  Here,  busy  at  his  desk,  I  found  our 
new  General  Secretary  for  the  Philippines,  Mr. 
E.  W.  Hearne,  and  placed  my  services  at  his 
disposal.  Mr.  Hearne's  selection  by  the 
International  Committee  for  this  responsible 
position  was  a  most  wise  one.  He  was  a 
typical  Association  man,  alert,  business-like, 


Manila  Again 


manly,  consecrated.  College  Secretary  for 
Iowa  when  the  Spanish-American  War  began, 
he  entered  the  volunteers  and  served  as  a  first 
lieutenant  of  the  Fifty-first  Iowa,  accompanying 
that  regiment  to  the  Philippines  and  campaign- 
ing through  a  good  part  of  central  Luzon. 
Upon  his  return  with  his  regiment  to  America, 
he  was  promptly  seized  upon  as  the  one  man 
best  fitted  to  direct  the  Association  work  in  the 
Islands,  and  only  remained  in  the  States  two 
brief  months,  returning  to  Manila  in  the 
capacity  of  General  Secretary.  Mr.  Hearne's 
abilities,  both  advisory  and  executive,  were  of 
such  a  high  order  that,  coupled  with  a  deep 
spiritual  life,  they  made  his  personality  no 
small  factor  in  the  successful  settlement  of  the 
many  problems  connected  not  merely  with  our 
work  (of  this  he  became  the  brain,  nerves  and  a 
large  share  of  the  muscle),  but  in  the  inception 
and  nourishment  of  the  infant  Protestant  mis- 
sions in  and  about  the  city. 

The  departure  of  Glunz  and  Jackson  to 
America  and  Phipps  to  China  left  the  entire 
burden  of  the  work  among  the  troops  in  Luzon 
upon  Mr.  Hearne  and  myself  as  Mr.  Hunter 
had  all  that  he  could  well  do  among  the  Marines 
at  Cavite.  As  Manila  had,  scattered  through 
its  different  quarters,  no  less  than  an  entire 
brigade  of  troops,  while  additional  hundreds 
were  sick  in  its  hospitals  or  in  the  city  "on 


152   The  Cross  of  Christ  tn  Bolo-Land 


pass"  and  detailed  duty,  and  all  arriving 
recruits  (a  continual  stream)  were  invariably 
held  for  some  time  in  its  confines  before  being 
assigned  to  garrisons,  the  work  at  the  old 
Cuartel  itself  was  of  the  first  importance. 
Here  we  maintained  a  dormitory  and  accom- 
modated some  eighty  transient  soldiers  each 
night  at  a  nominal  figure,  both  to  save  them 
from  robbery  and  temptation  in  the  dives  of 
the  city,  and  to  bring  them  under  the  influence 
of  the  Gospel.  In  addition  to  the  dormitory 
the  long  covered  court  of  the  old  barracks  had 
been  fitted  out  as  a  game-room,  with  croki- 
nole,  checkers,  chess  and  other  amusements, 
and  the  long  building  itself  divided  into 
library,  reading-room,  correspondence-room, 
ofifice, bath-room, and  an  auditorium  for  lectures, 
entertainments  and  evangelistic  services.  Such 
attractions  filled  the  place  with  men  during  the 
hottest  hours  of  the  day,  and  in  the  evenings 
its  spacious  entrance  and  cheerfully-lit  rooms 
literally  swarmed  with  "the  boys  in  brown," 
who  found  the  Association  the  nearest  thing  to 
a  Home  in  all  their  army  experience.  With  a 
lot  of  happy  fellows  at  the  games,  lounging  in 
the  entrance,  writing  letters  to  the  "home 
folks,"  reading  the  periodicals,  crowded  in  the 
auditorium  listening  to  the  lectures  or  helping 
in  the  song-services,  every  bed  in  the  dormi- 
tory taken,  the  "Stella"    music-box  playing 


Manila  Again 


153 


favorites  (anything  but  "Home,  Sweet  Home" 
allowed),  the  old  Cuartel  became  a  bright  place 
to  us,  and  our  hearts  were  light  with  the 
thought  that  we  were  doing  something  for 
American  manhood. 

In  maintaining  this  good  work  the  mission- 
aries had  no  small  share.  Immediately  upon 
my  arrival  in  Manila,  Hearne  had  driven 
me  about  the  city  to  meet  the  entire  "mis- 
sionary tribe,"  as  he  genially  called  them. 
I  found  that  my  old  friends,  Rodgers,  Good- 
rich of  the  American  Bible  Society,  and 
Miller  of  the  British  and  Foreign,  had  been 
reinforced  by  Rev.  L.  P.  Davidson  of  the  Pres- 
byterian Board,  Rev.  J.  L.  McLaughlin  of 
the  Methodist  Board,  and  several  ladies.  In 
addition  to  these  missionaries  two  young  Eng- 
lishmen, who  had  been  recently  compelled  to 
abandon  colportage  work  in  French  Indo- 
China,  were  in  Luzon  and  under  Mr.  Miller's 
direction,  while  the  Rev.  George  Turner  was 
acting  as  assistant  to  Mr.  Goodrich.  This 
welcome  increase  in  the  mission  force  since 
my  last  visit  to  the  city  meant,  of  course,  a 
great  impetus  to  the  Protestant  work  in  and 
about  the  city,  while  the  Rev.  Thomas  H. 
Martin  of  the  Methodist  Board,  still  another 
recent  arrival,  had  opened  up  a  new  station  at 
Dagupan  in  Pangasinan  Province.  These 
brethren  were  not  only  in  closest  touch  with 


1 54   The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


our  work  among  the  troops,  but  performed  no 
small  part  of  it  in  addition  to  their  other 
duties.  Both  the  Methodist  Mission  on  the 
Plaza  Goiti  and  the  Presbyterian  Mission  in 
Ermita  maintained  services  in  English  for  the 
benefit  of  the  soldiers,  and  Mr.  Goodrich  was 
exceptionally  successful  in  evangelistic  work 
at  the  Cuartel  Fortin.  During  the  fall  months 
of  1900  the  Methodists  alone  (Mr.  McLaughlin, 
Mr.  Prautch,  and  their  lady  assistants)  con- 
ducted some  twelve  different  services  a  week 
for  the  benefit  of  American  soldiers  in  Manila 
and  vicinity,  171  addition  to  as  many  ?nore  for 
Filipinos.  There  were  three  large  military  hos- 
pitals in  the  city,  at  each  one  of  which  a 
regular  Sunday  service  was  held,  one  by 
Messrs.  Rodgers  and  Davidson,  another  by  Mr. 
Smiley  of  the  Anglo-American  (Episcopal) 
Church,  and  a  third  by  Mr.  McLaughlin,  who 
also  maintained  an  interesting  weekly  service 
among  the  prisoners  confined  at  Bilibid 
Prison.  Four  miles  east  of  Manila  was  an- 
other hospital,  Santa  Mesa,  the  largest  in  the 
Islands,  and  its  three  hundred  sick  demanded 
at  least  one  service  of  us  each  week.  At 
Pasay  Cavalry  Barracks,  south  of  Malate,  we 
maintained  a  reading-room  and  a  weekly  serv- 
ice for  the  troopers,  held  other  meetings  with 
more  or  less  regularity  among  the  many  bar- 
racks in  Manila  and  occasionally  took  launch 


Manila  A  gam  155 


to  Corregidor  Island  and  cheered  the  patriots 
in  the  Convalescent  Hospital  with  a  song  serv- 
ice. 

In  this  connection  I  notice  in  my  notebook 
of  July  24  the  fact  thac,  "I  to-night  took  a  trip 
out  to  Santa  Mesa  Hospital.  It  is  entirely 
built  of  bamboo  and  nipa,  well  out  of  the  city 
on  high  ground,  and  should  be  very  healthy. 
'Church  call'  was  sounded,  and  I  addressed  all 
the  patients  who  were  able  to  assemble  in  the 
Hospital  Corps  quarters.  An  earnest  and 
spiritual  service.  Many  Christian  men  greeted 
me  after  it."  On  July  26  I  write,  "Spent  the 
day  in  a  trip  to  Corregidor  Island  to  see  about 
establishing  regular  services  at  the  hospital. 
The  trip  across  the  bay  from  Manila  occupied 
three  hours.  Major  Gray,  the  Chief  Surgeon 
of  the  Convalescent  Hospital,  welcomed  the 
idea  of  religious  services,  and  one  is  appointed 
for  next  Thursday.  He  desires  to  start  a 
library  for  the  use  of  the  patients,  and  we  will 
assist  with  some  forty  or  fifty  volumes. 
Visited  the  pleasantly-located  wards,  sheltered 
in  the  trees  at  the  cove,  chatted  with  the 
patients,  and  climbed  up  the  bluff  to  call  upon 
the  company  of  the  Twentieth  Infantry,  which 
guards  the  island.  Corregidor  is  very  healthy 
and  exceedingly  pretty.  Its  one  little  native 
village  is  a  model  of  neatness,  and  from  it  a 
path  covered  with  white  sea-gravel  winds  up 


156   The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


over  the  foliaged  hills,  past  the  barracks  to  the 
beacon  on  the  summit  of  the  bluff." 

On  the  2d  of  August  I  was  again  at  Corregi- 
dor,  "with  a  good  selection  of  books,  writing 
paper,  envelopes,  hymn-books,  and  Testaments. 
In  going  through  the  wards  and  greeting  the 
patients,  I  found  a  young  trooper  of  the  Fourth 
Cavalry  stretched  out  on  his  cot  reading  a 
Testament.  Introducing  myself,  we  had  a 
pleasant  chat,  and  I  discovered  that  he  had 
found  his  Saviour  recently,  while  reading  the 
Word  on  his  sick-bed.  He  expressed  a  desire 
to  own  a  Testament  of  his  own,  as  the  one  he 
was  reading  belonged  to  the  ward.  Having  in 
my  pocket  one  of  the  elegant  little  Testaments 
which  Miss  Helen  Gould  had  sent  us  for  dis- 
tribution, containing  her  initials  and  a  verse  of 
Scripture  in  her  own  hand,  I  at  once  offered 
it  to  him,  and  when  he  exclaimed,  'Great 
Scott!  I  haven't  any  money  with  mel'  ex- 
plained that  the  gift  was  as  free  as  the  message 
it  contained,  and  left  him  with  a  shining  face. 
Later  I  held  a  service  in  Ward  B.  Major  Gray 
made  all  arrangements,  and  'church  call'  was 
blown  by  an  old  'Logan'  acquaintance,  the 
chief  musician  of  the  Forty-first  regiment,  now 
a  patient.  This  was  the  first  service  at  the 
hospital  in  three  months,  and  was  greatly 
appreciated.  The  men  as  usual  are  hungry 
for  reading-matter  and  Testaments." 


Manila  Again 


157 


A  third  visit  to  the  little  sentinel  island  was 
attended  with  some  danger.  In  the  typhoon 
month  of  September,  while  crossing  the  bay  in 
a  small  steam  launch,  we  were  caught  in  an 
ugly  storm,  blowing  in  from  the  China  Sea.  We 
were  heading  into  it,  and  dared  not  turn  back 
to  the  harbor  for  fear  of  being  swamped  as  we 
swung  around.  After  an  entire  forenoon  on  the 
wild  bay  we  succeeded  in  making  the  lea  of 
the  island,  and  I  landed  in  thankful  mood.  But 
the  storm  continued,  and  for  five  days  no  boat 
dared  to  brave  the  twenty-eight  raging  miles  to 
bring  us  the  usual  stores.  Provisions  ran 
pretty  low  on  the  fourth  day,  and  on  the  fifth  a 
hunting  party  from  the  officers'  ward  climbed 
the  windy  bluffs  after  wild  goats  to  reinforce 
the  diminishing  larder.  The  next  day,  how- 
ever, the  launch  service  was  resumed  and  I 
escaped  to  Manila. 

A  more  ambitious  trip  was  by  Q.  M.  D. 
launch  to  Naic  in  Cavite  Province,  garrisoned 
by  four  troops  of  the  Fourth  Cavalry.  I  had 
not  before  worked  among  the  troopers,  but 
found  them  to  be  well  up  to  the  traditions  of 
their  branch  of  the  service — open-hearted, 
alert,  neat  and  dashing.  I  took  with  me  one 
of  the  dozen  traveling  libraries  which  Miss 
Gould  had  furnished  for  circulation  among  the 
garrisons  of  the  Islands,  and  from  the  garrison 
commander   to  the   battalion  mascot  I  was 


158   The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


hailed  as  a  long-lost  brother.  Here  for  the 
first  time  I  heard  the  brazen  invitation: 

"O,  come  to  the  stable 

All  ye  that  are  able 
And  get  your  poor  horses  some  oats  and  some  com. 

For  if  you  don't  do  it 

The  top  soldier  will  know  it 
And  then  you  will  rue  it  as  sure  as  you're  bom-n<i-n-nl" 

Another  experience  of  the  times  was  a  trip 
up  the  Manila  &  Dagupan  Railway,  both  for 
the  purpose  of  seeing  my  old  friends  of  the 
Forty-first,  who  were  still  scattered  along  its 
single  track,  and  to  arrange  our  work  more 
satisfactorily  at  the  northern  terminal,  Dagu- 
pan,  where  we  maintained  reading  and  corre- 
spondence rooms  in  a  small  rented  building. 
Again  referring  to  my  notebook,  I  find  that  on 
August  6th  I  was  at  Angeles,  in  Pampanga 
Province.  "Came  up  the  Manila  &  Dagupan 
Railway  at  Chaplain  Springer's  invitation,  to 
conduct  services  with  the  Forty-first.  Had  not 
seen  an  iron  track  for  seven  months,  and  the 
sensation  of  riding  fifteen  miles  an  hour  was 
quite  exhilarating.  The  road  is  operated  by  an 
English  company,  and  naturally  has  a  good 
road-bed  and  a  poor  lot  of  rolling  stock.  I 
understand  that  for  a  time  the  military  operated 
the  road,  during  which  regime  a  run  without 
disaster  from  Manila  to  Dagupan  was  spoken 
of  as  an  accident!    Passed  through  Caloocan, 


Manila  Again 


159 


Malolos,  Calumpit  and  San  Fernando,  through 
which  the  tide  of  battle  rolled  a  year  and  a 
half  ago.    Everything  peaceful  now.    Met  old 
friends  of  the  Forty-first  all  along  the  line. 
Was  glad  to  be  remembered.    Greeted  at  this 
place  by  the  Chaplain,  who  is  looking  and  feel- 
ing far  from  well,  and  taken  at  once  to  regi- 
mental headquarters,  where  I  had  the  pleasure 
of  seeing  Colonel  Richmond,  Surgeon-Major 
Smith,  Adjutant  Seone,  Lieutenant  Koch  and 
other  friends.    At  8:  30  this  evening  attended 
a  Filipino  circus  (tell  it  not  in  Gath,  for  I  am  a 
Roundhead!).     It  was  held  in  an  old  sugar- 
house.    A  small  ring  had  been  marked  out, 
seats — or  more  properly,  perches — rigged  about 
it,  trapeze  let  down  from  the  rafters,  and  the 
whole  lit  by  petroleum  torches.    The  interior 
of  the  roomy  nipa  building  was  lined,  when  we 
arrived,  with  expectant  Pampangans,  a  large 
percentage    being,   of    course,    the  hopeful 
younger  generation.    The  performance,  to  our 
surprise,  was  an  almost  exact  reproduction  of  a 
cheap  "one-ring"  American  show,  and  although 
the  clowns  cracked  their  jokes  in  Pampanga 
dialect  they  were  perfectly  intelligible  to  those 
of  us  who  could  go  back  in  memory  a  few 
years.      Juggling,    balancing,  contortioning, 
vaulting,  acrobatic  trickery,  athletic  tableaux, 
and  clownish  buffoonery  filled  the  two  hours. 
An  American  boy  would  have  been  highly 


i6o    The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bob- Land 


delighted  and  decidedly  at  home,  and  would 
hardly  have  distinguished  the  native  clowns 
from  his  old  friends  of  Forepaugh's  larger 
arena." 

Angeles  held  other  experiences — a  call  upon 
General  Frederick  Grant,  who  was  kind  enough 
to  speak  highly  of  the  Association's  work,  a 
service  both  in  the  Regimental  Hospital  and  in 
the  Division  Hospital,  and  a  song  service  in 
the  Post  Chapel  for  the  benefit  of  the  men  of 
the  garrison.  Blessing  attended  each  of  these 
ser\'ices.  The  Division  Hospital  was  nothing 
other  than  the  large  local  church,  its  nave  and 
transepts  covered  with  cots,  upon  which  the 
sick  and  wounded  lay,  and  its  choir  used  as  an 
office  and  dispensary  by  the  surgeons  and 
nurses  in  charge.  In  common  with  all  Fili- 
pino churches  it  was  cruciform  in  plan,  and 
in  order  to  reach  the  ears  of  all  the  patients  the 
Chaplain  and  I  clambered  up  around  one  of  the 
columns  into  the  cathedral  pulpit,  over  which 
a  huge  sounding-board  hung  and  threatened  to 
extinguish  us.  Here  the  Chaplain  prayed, 
and  I  expounded  the  first  paragraph  of  the  fifth 
chapter  of  John — Christ  at  Bethesda. 

On  the  third  evening  of  my  stay  I  was  piloted 
about  the  town  and  shown  a  rather  unique 
sight — a  native  rice-pounding  by  music.  The 
rice  was  poured  into  a  rude  mortar,  around 
which  a  half-dozen  natives,  young  men  and 


Manila  Again  i6i 


maidens,  stood  with  long-handled  wooden 
mallets.  Four  musicians  sat  near  by  upon  a 
split-bamboo  platform,  with  their  make-shift 
guitars  in  readiness.  At  a  given  signal  they 
struck  into  a  slow  tune,  and  the  hammers  about 
the  mortar  began  to  carelessly  tap  the  rice. 
Soon  the  music  quickened,  and  the  workers  as 
well,  several  of  them  whirling  their  mallets 
about  their  heads  and  spinning  around  them- 
selves, yet  without  missing  their  stroke  as  the 
blows  fell  in  one-two-three-four-five-six  order. 
The  music  then  twanged  faster  and  the  mallets 
quickened  in  response  until  they  were  rising 
and  falling  as  fast  as  the  jacks  on  a  piano  in 
waltz  time.  This  combination  of  music  and 
muscle  soon  reduced  the  rice  to  the  desired 
shape,  the  guitars  stopped  abruptly,  and  the 
workers  perspired  freely  as  they  relinquished 
their  hammers  to  the  next  shift  who  came  for- 
ward from  the  spectators  to  continue  the  work 
upon  the  refilled  mortar. 

From  Angeles  I  took  train  to  Dagupan  and 
conferred  with  Mr.  Martin  of  the  Methodist 
Board,  who  was  stationed  at  that  point,  kept  a 
kindly  eye  upon  our  work,  and  was  of  great 
service  in  keeping  up  a  weekly  religious  meet- 
ing at  our  building.  The  credit  for  keeping 
our  quarters  open  and  in  order,  however,  was 
at  the  time  of  my  visit  due  to  two  Christian 
soldiers  of  Company  K,  Thirteenth  Infantry, 


1 62    The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


Poate  and  Nadeau,  who  were  allowed  to  move 
their  cots  into  the  building  from  the  barracks, 
and  spent  all  their  spare  time  in  keeping  the 
place  neat  and  attractive  and  in  issuing  such 
supplies  as  we  could  spare  from  Manila.  The 
four  of  us  put  our  heads  together  and  planned 
a  three  nights'  evangelistic  campaign,  I  not 
being  able  to  remain  longer  at  the  time.  Three 
companies  of  the  Thirteenth  formed  the  garri- 
son of  Dagupan  and  our  little  audience  room  was 
crowded.  The  inquiry  meetings  conducted 
directly  after  each  address  resulted  in  some 
eight  decisions  for  Christ  in  the  three  days. 

No  small  part  of  Mr.  Hearne's  work  and  my 
own  was  incurred  in  the  attempt  to  keep  in 
touch  with  the  many  garrisons  which  we  found 
it  impossible  to  personally  visit.  In  this  at- 
tempt we  were  greatly  helped  by  the  courtesy  of 
the  Director  of  Posts  for  the  Philippines,  who 
determined  to  send  all  Association  supplies  to 
the  garrisons  postage  free.  We  were  thus 
enabled  to  put  up  innumerable  bundles  of 
periodicals,  papers,  magazines,  games,  "com- 
fort-bags" and  such  other  supplies  as  we  had 
to  hand,  and  mail  them  to  the  most  isolated 
posts  scattered  not  merely  over  Luzon  but 
many  other  islands  as  well.  The  demand  for 
these  can  hardly  be  credited  by  those  who  have 
never  endured  the  monotony  of  foreign  garri- 
son life.    From  a  multitude  of  soldiers'  letters 


Ma7iila  Again 


163 


I  quote  the  tenor  of  a  few.  From  Balungao, 
Luzon:  "Here  at  Balungao  we  are  almost  out 
of  the  world.  We  are  but  seventeen  men  in 
all  and  are  four  miles  from  Rosales  and  sixteen 
from  Humingan,  garrisoned  by  the  Twenty- 
fourth.  We  have  not  seen  a  Manila  paper 
since  coming  here.  It  would  be  a  great  kind- 
ness if  you  could  send  us  a  batch  of  old 
Manila  papers  occasionally,  even  if  they  are 
two  or  three  weeks  old.  We  know  absolutely 
nothing  out  here.  Don't  forget  us.  We  are 
small  but  holding  down  a  good  slice  of  Luzon." 
From  Maasin,  Panay:  "Your  most  welcome 
letter  received,  also  a  package  of  paper,  en- 
velopes, books,  etc.,  for  which  receive  the 
thanks  of  myself  and  fellow  soldiers.  It  was 
certainly  a  welcome  package,  I  can  assure  you. 
We  have  quite  a  number  sick  in  our  company. 
I  suppose  you  know  that  ninety  per  cent  of  it 
is  from  drink  and  adultery.  I  am  still  trusting 
Jesus  to  guide  me  safely  through  my  term  of  ser- 
vice and  return  me  to  my  home  once  more — the 
only  place  that  is  dear."  From  Murcia, 
Negros:  "Being  a  member  of  the  New  York 
Y.  M.  C.  A.  I  write  to  you  to  secure  some 
papers  and  books.  I  have  purchased  a  house 
in  this  town  for  the  benefit  of  the  soldiers  and 
would  like  to  have  a  little  assistance  to  con- 
tinue the  work  of  Christ.  We  have  in  this 
detachment  thirty-five  men  and  I  want  to  do 


164   The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


what  is  right  by  the  boys.  I  am  the  musician 
of  this  company.  Hoping  to  hear  from  you 
soon."  From  Carranglan,  Luzon:  "It  gives 
me  much  pleasure  to  acknowledge  the  receipt 
of  a  small  box  containing  Testaments,  song- 
books,  writing  materials  and  reading  matter. 
The  men  in  the  line  appreciate  your  kindness 
and  desire  their  sincere  thanks  conveyed.  The 
supplies  had  been  reboxed  at  San  Jose,  twenty- 
two  miles  below  here.  Mail  leaves  in  the 
morning.  The  whole  of  the  writing  paper  was 
given  out.  There  were  fifty-seven  men  and 
only  three  or  four  sheets  to  each.  To-morrow 
it  is  my  intention  to  distribute  the  song-books 
among  the  squad,  giving  them  to  responsible 
men  who  will  put  them  to  good  use.  Several 
have  asked  for  Testaments.  Will  be  glad  to 
do  anything  I  can  to  further  Christian  work  in 
this  post.  Yours  in  the  great  cause."  From 
a  Catholic  boy  at  Bantista,  Luzon:  "For  Jesus, 
Mary  and  Joseph.  The  men  here  would  like 
it  very  much  if  you  could  send  a  little  writing 
paper  and  envelopes.  Address  them  to  me 
and  those  that  want  them  can  get  them  from 
me."  From  Mabalacat,  Luzon:  "The  boys 
of  Co.  "M"  send  you  their  best  wishes  and  are 
grateful  for  the  paper,  envelopes  and  books. 
Would  be  pleased  to  have  you  pay  us  a  visit." 
From  Naic,  Luzon:  "I  write  in  behalf  of  the 
men  of  my  troop.    It  rains  almost  all  the  time, 


Manila  Again 


165 


compelling  the  men  to  remain  indoors.  As 
there  is  no  reading  matter  about  the  quarters 
they  take  to  games  of  chance.  A  little  good 
reading  would,  I  am  sure,  cheer  many  a  dreary 
hour  and  diminish  the  amount  of  gambling. 
Copies  of  'The  Christian  Herald, "Men, "Ladies 
Home  Journal'  etc.,  would  be  greatly  appreci- 
ated, both  by  the  troop  and  yours  respectfully. 
P.  S. :  Please  ship 'in  care  of  orderly  room.  '  " 

In  addition  to  the  forwarding  of  Association 
supplies  we  soon  found  ourselves  considered 
by  many  correspondents  as  a  convenient  ex- 
change through  which  they  could  get  their 
many  little  commissions  executed.  In  this 
way  we  became  agents  for  the  securing  and 
forwarding  of  athletic  goods,  typewriter  and 
kodak  supplies,  Spanish  text-books,  watches, 
and  a  hundred  other  things,  and  although  our 
good  nature  was  sometimes  imposed  upon,  we 
were,  on  the  whole,  more  than  repaid  for  the 
considerable  expense  of  time  and  trouble  by 
the  gratitude  of  the  fellows  benefited. 

The  burden  of  this  and  much  other  work  fell 
mainly  upon  Hearne,  as  I  had  a  slow  fever 
burning  at  my  bones  the  most  of  the  time  and 
took  every  opportunity  to  rest;  and  although 
we  increased  our  ofifice  force  by  the  employ- 
ment of  honorably  discharged  soldiers  (some  of 
whom  proved  very  valuable  to  us)  the  pressure 
was  at  last  so  great  upon  him  that  he  became 


1 66    The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


badly  exhausted,  and  kept  doggedly  at  his 
work  when  he  should  have  been  under  the  doc- 
tor's care. 

In  the  latter  part  of  September  disquieting 
news  came  to  us  from  Phipps.  It  appeared 
that  he  had  hardly  entered  upon  his  work  with 
the  troops  of  the  China  Expedition  when  he  was 
taken  critically  ill  and  for  several  weeks  lay  at 
Tientsin  despaired  of  by  the  physicians.  He 
was  somewhat  better  at  the  time  he  penned  his 
letter  to  us,  but  was  unable  to  carry  on  his 
work.  This  news  determined  Hearne  to  leave 
the  Manila  work  in  my  hands  for  a  few  weeks 
and  proceed  to  Taku.  As  a  side-light  on  our 
work  and  incidentally  on  Hearne's  ability  for 
details  I  refer  to  a  letter  received  from  him 
upon  his  arrival  in  the  Gulf  of  Pechili:  "We 
are  just  coming  to  anchor  in  a  forest  of  masts, 
one  of  the  fellows  having  counted  over  seventy 
ships  at  anchor  here.  The  water  is  very  shal- 
low in  toward  the  mouth  of  the  Hoang-Hoand 
big  tugs  haul  everything  from  ship  to  shore. 
Our  trip  has  been  without  incident  or  accident. 
Found  an  'old  shipmate'  of  the  'Sumner' 
among  the  firemen.  He  asked  first  thing  for 
'yer  moosic  box.'  Tell  Joe  to  use  the  gramo- 
phone. The  new  sounder  is  in  a  small  box 
with  some  fittings  in  the  lower  shelf  of  the  big 
cabinet  near  the  desk.  Give  Weston  my  best 
and  Mr.  Goodrich  and  the  missionaries.    I  do 


Manila  Again 


167 


not  know  what  my  work  will  be  to-day  but  I 
hope  to  get  ashore  on  the  first  launch  and  push 
on  to  Tientsin  as  soon  as  possible.  (Later.) 
At  last  we  are  ashore.  This  afternoon  am  off 
for  Tientsin.  If  you  or  Weston  can  rig  up 
that  stereopticon  the  instrument  itself  is  at 
Mr. Davidson's  with  one  box  of  slides.  Other 
slides  and  the  electrical  outfit  are  in  the  box 
with  the  athletic  stuff.  The  oil-lamp  and 
screen  are  with  the  machine.  Please  give  my 
regards  to  'the  regulars,'  Humphrey,  Gadbury, 
Whiteside  and  the  rest  of  them.  I  remember 
you  daily." 

I  would  like  in  closing  this  chapter  to  do 
justice  to  Hearne's  month  in  China  or  to 
Phipps's  longer  service  there,  but  it  would  be 
difficult  to  do  so.  As  long  as  the  American 
troops  were  held  in  force  at  Tientsin,  Pekin 
and  Taku,  Phipps,  recovered  in  part,  did  noble 
and  effective  service  among  them.  Hearne, 
having  found  Phipps  on  the  road  to  recovery 
and  in  company  with  him  having  opened  up 
quarters  both  at  Tientsin  and  Peking,  returned 
to  Manila  in  November.  Meanwhile  I  had 
been  gladdened  by  the  arrival  of  an  additional 
secretary  for  our  work,  Mr.  J.  C.  Webb  of  Los 
Angeles,  who  immediately  reinforced  my 
efforts  both  at  the  building  and  among  the 
hospitals  and  barracks. 


IX 

IRoctbern  Xu3on 


EARNE  having  again  taken  up  the 
heavy  burdens  at  Manila  I  was 
once  more  released  for  field- 
work  and  able  to  carry  out  a 
plan  which  we  had  had  in 
mind  for  some  months  —  an 
extended  trip  through  the  ex- 
treme north  of  Luzon.  Before, 
however,  I  was  allowed  that 
arduous  privilege  I  spent  some 
two  weeks  at  the  quaint  little 
town  of  Cavite  assisting  Mr. 
Hunter  in  his  work  with  the 
Cavite  occupies  the  extreme 
end  of  a  promontory  which  curves  out  from 
the  shore-line  some  six  miles  southwest  of 
Manila,  enclosing  in  its  fish-hook  shape  the 
shallow  Bay  of  Bacoor.  As  the  widened  end 
of  this  peninsula — the  site  of  the  town  and 
navy  yard  —  is  only  connected  with  the 
remainder  of  it  by  an  artificial  causeway  Cavite 
may  properly  be  said  to  be  built  upon  an 
island.  As  the  area  is  limited  the  town  is  built 
closely  together.  Its  age  has  given  a  fine  gray 
to  its  several  churches  (one  of  which,  I  noticed, 
was  a  mute  witness  of  Admiral  Dewey's  shell 
i68 


Marine  Corps. 


Northern  Luzon  169 


fire)  and  has  clothed  its  little  plazas  and 
parade-ground  with  beautiful  turf,  while  its 
compactness  has  made  it  both  possible  and 
necessary  that  the  town  be  neatly  kept.  Mr. 
Hunter  showed  me  much  of  interest  in  the  old 
fortifications  and  dungeons  of  the  Spanish 
regime  and  the  wrecks  of  Montojo's  fleet,  which 
still  showed  its  rusted  funnels  and  twisted 
superstructures  above  the  waters  near  the  island. 
Our  chief  interest  was  one,  however,  that  con- 
cerned the  living  present.  Nearly  twelve 
hundred  Marines  lived  in  the  barracks  and 
swarmed  through  the  streets  of  the  town. 
Several  companies  of  them  had  just  returned 
from  China  and  possessed  trophies  ranging 
from  silver  bars,  gold  bracelets  and  silks  down 
to  chop-sticks  and  recently-severed  pig-tails! 

The  Association  had  been  granted  a  small 
but  comfortable  building  for  its  use  and  under 
Mr.  Hunter's  supervision  an  excellent  though 
limited  work  had  been  in  progress  for  nearly  a 
year.  In  fact  a  number  of  months  before  Mr. 
Hunter's  arrival  in  the  Islands,  Private  Cassels 
of  the  Marine  Corps  had  taken  the  initiative 
and  organized  an  Association  at  the  suggestion 
of  Mr.  Glunz,  maintaining  services  and  raising 
no  little  money  toward  the  securing  of  supplies 
both  for  themselves  and  others. 

The  large  number  of  Marines  in  the  garrison, 
however,  determined  me  to  erect  a  tent  on  the 


I70  The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


Plaza  San  Pedro  and  conduct  my  services  there 
— the  building  being  far  too  small  to  accom- 
modate them.  This  was  accordingly  done  and 
an  eleven  nights'  evangelistic  campaign  car- 
ried on.  On  the  opening  night  the  flag-draped 
tent,  seated  with  camp-stools,  was  crowded  to 
the  flaps  and  the  interest  began  at  once. 
Hearty  singing,  brief  addresses,  testimonies 
and  an  after-meeting  was  the  nightly  program. 
Men  were  reclaimed  from  lives  of  sin  at  nearly 
every  service  and  at  the  end  of  the  series — 
which  came  all  too  soon — we  could  rejoice 
over  not  a  few  decisions  for  the  new  life. 
Among  the  most  faithful  attendants  at  these 
services  was  Lieutenant-Colonel  Kelton,  second 
in  command  of  the  garrison,  and  a  most  earnest 
Christian  soldier.  Colonel  Kelton  is  known  in 
Christian  circles  for  many  good  works  and  not 
the  least  among  them  is  the  encouragement, 
advice  and  prayer  with  which  he  seconded  Mr. 
Hunter's  labors  at  Cavite.  The  most  pleasant 
part  of  this  ten  days'  experience  was  the 
nightly  prayer  services  among  the  rusty  can- 
non on  the  moon-lit  bastion  of  the  old  ruined 
fort. 

During  this  stay  in  Cavite  Mr.  Hunter,  Mr. 
Hearne  and  myself  spent  a  day  in  visiting  the 
still  older  town  of  Cavite  Viejo,  which  lies 
across  the  Bay  of  Bacoor.  At  this  place  a 
company  of  the  Fourth  Infantry  occupied  the 


Northern  Luzon  171 


former  home  of  the  insurgent  leader  Aguinaldo, 
as  a  barrack.  The  house  was  unusually  pre- 
tentious for  so  small  a  pueblo  and  contained  a 
large  panel  upon  the  ceiling  of  the  main  room 
representing  with  no  mean  talent  "The  Vision 
of  Aguinaldo,"  which  is  supposed  to  have 
inspired  his  efforts  against  tyrannical  Spaniards 
and  encroaching  Americans.  The  painting  is 
oval  and  perhaps  fifteen  by  twenty-five  feet.  In 
it  a  young  and  charming  Filipina  is  seated 
upon  a  marble  terrace  gazing  out  over  the  sea 
toward  the  rising  sun,  which  appears  above  a 
triple  peak.  At  her  feet  are  shattered  shackles, 
while  in  her  left  hand  she  trails  a  broken 
.Spanish  banner,  and  in  her  right  waves  the 
red,  white  and  blue  of  the  insurgent  flag  with 
its  golden  sun  and  attendant  stars.  As  we 
stood  admiring  it,  one  of  the  men  remarked 
that  if  the  three  peaks  in  the  picture  repre- 
sented the  Cavite  range  which  they  certainly 
r i  sembled,  then  the  sun  which  represented  the 
l(jnged-for  golden  day  of  Filipino  aspiration 
was  ^  settirtg  %wvi\  I  could  not  but  hope,  how- 
ever, as  I  gazed  up  at  the  allegory  and  then 
around  at  the  stacked  rifles  of  the  guard,  that 
the  dream  of  the  leader  might  come  to  pass 
.ifter  all  and  the  sun  of  a  tranquil  and  happy 
(lay  soon  shine  over  the  entire  archipelago. 

Upon  concluding  the  services  at  Cavite  I  left 
my  tent  still  standing  to  serve  the  Marines  as 


172   The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


an  additional  social  and  reading-room,  and 
returned  to  Manila  to  prepare  for  my  trip  to 
the  north.  Having  lost  my  journal  for  the 
period.  I  am  unable  to  give  the  date  of  my  de- 
parture from  Manila  via  steamer  for  Vigan,  but 
I  found  myself  at  that  important  town  on  the 
15th  of  December,  having  gotten  a  glimpse  of 
the  pretty  little  pueblo  of  San  Fernando  de  la 
Union  en  route. 

Vigan  is  hardly  less  than  twenty  thousand  in 
population  and  is  the  metropolis  of  thellocano 
country'.  The  mountains  which  crowd  the  west- 
ern coast  of  northern  Luzon  are  at  this  point 
split  by  the  rapid  current  of  the  Rio  Abra  and 
the  town  is  built  upon  the  delta  which  in  course 
of  time  formed  at  the  foot  of  the  range.  In 
itself  Vigan  is  not  interesting,  but  of  no  little 
importance  as  the  District  Headquarters  of  Gen- 
eral Young,  and  the  Regimental  Headquarters 
of  Colonel  Davis  of  the  Third  Cavalry.  Two 
troops  of  this  command  and  two  companies  of 
the  Thirty-third  Infantry  made  up  the  garrison 
and  in  addition  I  found  some  thirty  sick  at  the 
hospital. 

On  the  Lord's  Day  following  my  arrival  I 
conducted  services  both  at  the  hospital  and 
from  the  band-stand  on  the  Plaza  de  Weyler. 
This  latter  service  was  largely  attended  and 
developed  the  presence  of  a  number  of  Chris- 
tian men.    We  did  the  best  we  could  with  the 


Northern  Ltizon 


173 


after-meeting,  the  men  who  were  especially 
interested  being  invited  to  come  up  into  the 
band-stand  after  the  ser\'ice  for  consultation 
and  prayer.  We  had  the  joy  of  seeing  one 
decision  for  Christ  even  in  this  unique  inquiry 
room.  At  the  conclusion  the  Christian  men 
of  the  commands  represented  formed  them- 
selves into  a  committee  to  provide  a  regular 
weekly  song  service.  Having  brought  with 
me  some  few  supplies,  I  was  able  to  furnish 
them  with  hymn-books,  Testaments  and  a  few 
volumes  of  the  Moody  Colportage  Library. 

The  next  morning  I  left  for  Bangued,  the 
capital  of  Abra  Province.  It  is  hardly  more 
than  eight  miles  as  the  crow  flies  from  Vigan 
to  Bangued,  but  the  Abra  makes  a  long  eight- 
een of  it,  twisting  and  screwing  through  the 
coast  range.  As  no  road  had  been  cut  through 
the  canon  it  was  necessary  to  raft  it  and  I 
accordingly  reported  to  Lieutenant  Davis  of 
the  Fifth  Infantr>'  who  was  the  vital  link 
between  the  Supply  Depot  at  Vigan  and  the 
exiled  regiments  back  of  the  mountains — in 
other  words  had  the  dangerous  task  of  convey- 
ing and  guarding  rations  and  ammunition 
through  the  Abra  Pass. 

I  found  him  four  miles  from  Vigan  at  the 
barrio  of  Santa  just  getting  his  flotilla  in  shape 
for  the  weekly  trip.  The  rafts  which  numbered 
on  this  occasion  some  thirty-five  were  merely 


1 74   The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


platforms  of  bamboo  perhaps  thirty  feet  in 
length  and  five  in  width,  each  manned  by  three 
muscular  Ilocanes  with  fiber  ropes  for  pulling 
and  bamboo  poles  for  pushing.  Upon  each  raft 
a  dozen  or  more  boxes  of  rations  and  ammuni- 
tion were  stacked  and  an  infantryman  crowned 
the  whole.  In  addition  to  the  Lieutenant's 
fleet  a  second  outfit  accompanied  us  on  the 
first  day's  journey,  a  detachment  of  nineteen 
engineers  under  command  of  Lieutenant  Slat- 
tery,  who  were  going  up  to  San  Quentin  with 
the  pleasant  task  before  them  of  blasting  a 
wagon-trail  out  of  the  side  of  the  canon. 

There  is  nothing  sluggish  about  the  Abra  in 
December  and  we  had  scarcely  entered  the 
mouth  of  the  pass  before  the  Ilocanes  had  all 
they  could  do  to  make  headway  against  the 
rapids,  and  in  fact  the  distance  accomplished 
between  six  in  the  morning  and  six  at  night 
was  hardly  more  than  nine  miles  and  found  us 
no  farther  than  the  lonely  barrio  of  San 
Quentin,  a  desolate  half-dozen  of  weather 
beaten  shacks  perched  upon  a  spur  at  a  most 
forsaken  part  of  the  canon.  Here  we  tied  up 
for  the  night  and  I  was  so  happy  as  to  enjoy 
the  hospitality  of  Captain  Schultz  of  the 
Thirty-third  and  a  warm  greeting  from  a  hun- 
dred lonesome  Southern  boys  in  the  dilapi- 
dated barracks,  where  I  preached  at  seven 
o'clock  to  a  considerable  audience.    Not  only 


Northern  Luzon  175 


was  all  of  "K"  Company  present,  but  Slattery 
and  his  engineers  and  Davis  and  his  regulars 
came  in  to  enjoy  the  novelty  of  a  sermon. 
After  getting  acquainted  with  some  of  the  more 
interested  and  taking  the  names  of  those  who 
desired  Testaments  and  reading  matter  mailed 
them  from  Manila  I  turned  in  for  the  night, 
sung  to  sleep  by  a  sound  unheard  before  for 
many  hot  months — the  howling  breath  of  a 
cold  wind  whistling  down  the  pass. 

The  next  morning  we  continued  our  journey 
to  Bangued,  the  boatman  at  times  fighting  des- 
perately to  avoid  being  carried  down  stream. 
We  did  not  make  fast  to  the  bank  at  our  desti- 
nation until  late  in  the  afternoon,  but  the  impos- 
ing scenery  made  the  hours  pass  all  too  quickly. 
The  great  land-mark  of  the  region  is  the  pecul- 
iar peak  of  Bulagao,  which  was  in  sight  the 
greater  part  of  the  day  and  rises  several  hun- 
dred feet  above  the  surrounding  heights.  The 
huge  square  bulk  of  Taal  was  also  imposing 
and  at  all  times  the  swift  green  river  circling 
through  the  rocky  hills  and  accompanied  along 
its  course  by  heavy  music  of  its  own  making, 
compelled  exclamatory  admiration. 

The  town  of  Bangued  contained  at  one  time 
some  eleven  thousand  population  and  occupy- 
ing as  it  did  a  high  altitude  and  a  compara- 
tively cool  climate,  boasted  not  a  few  fine  stone 
residences.    But  it  met  my  gaze  as  a  charred 


176   Tlie  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


ruin,  only  the  church,  barracks,  and  a  ring  of 
buildings  immediately  about  the  plaza  remain- 
ing unharmed.  This  desolation  was  the  result 
of  the  desultory  guerrilla  warfare  which  had 
flickered  fitfully  in  the  province  ever  since  its 
occupation  by  the  American  troops.  Abra  is 
a  succession  of  ridges  billowing  away  from  the 
coast  to  the  Cagayan  Valley  and  its  countless 
hiding  places  made  it  a  favorite  retreat  for  the 
insurgent  bands  when  too  hard  pressed  to 
maintain  themselves  in  the  more  open  country 
to  the  south  and  east.  As  a  consequence  at 
the  time  of  my  visit  to  Bangued  not  only  was 
an  entire  battalion  of  infantry  quartered  in  its 
few  remaining  buildings  but  three  additional 
battalions  were  operating  in  the  province  and 
using  Bangued  as  a  base. 

Davis  had  turned  me  over,  upon  arrival  at 
his  quarters,  to  the  pleasant  mercies  of  Caj>- 
tain  Carnahan  of  the  Fifth  Infantr>',  and  for 
the  greater  part  of  a  week  I  was  the  recipient 
of  many  courtesies  both  from  him  and  the 
officers  and  men  of  the  post.  The  garrison 
consisted  of  two  companies  of  the  Fifth  and 
two  companies  of  the  Thirty-third  and  among 
these  latter  I  found  that  a  Regimental  Y.  M. 
C.  A.  had  existed  ever  since  the  regiment  had 
left  the  Presidio  at  San  Francisco,  a  year  and 
a  half  before  and  a  small  building  at  Bangued 
had  been  neatly  fitted  up  as  a  reading  room 


Norther7i  Luzon 


177 


and  library  by  the  members  of  the  organization. 
In  looking  about  the  post  I  could  discover  no 
suitable  place  to  conduct  services  indoors 
as  the  barracks  were  too  crowded  and  the  read- 
ing room  was  too  small.  This  compelled  me 
to  again  take  to  a  band-stand  on  the  plaza  and 
on  two  different  evenings  held  forth  to  the 
greater  part  of  the  garrison  from  that  point  of 
vantage.  I  had  intended  leaving  on  the  day 
following  the  second  service,  but  a  committee 
of  Christian  soldiers  waited  upon  me  in  behalf 
of  their  comrades  and  assured  me  that  if  I 
would  remain  over  another  night  a  better 
place  would  be  secured  for  the  gathering.  I 
agreed  and  in  the  evening  was  conducted  to 
the  local  school  building  which  had  been 
cleaned,  garnished  and  brightly  lighted  and 
packed  with  men  to  its  limit.  One  of  the  best 
services  in  my  army  experience  followed — 
some  eight  men  announcing  their  decision  for 
the  Christian  life  at  its  close. 

In  coming  up  the  river  we  had  on  the  second 
day  passed  the  town  of  Pidigan  de  Abra, 
merely  stopping  the  rafts  long  enough  to  land 
a  few  boxes  of  rations  and  two  precious  kegs  of 
sauer-kraut.  But  Captain  Martin  had  natur- 
ally been  drawn  down  to  the  bank  by  this  pow- 
erful magnet  and  I  had  arranged  with  him  for 
a  service  with  his  company  upon  my  return. 
This  promise  I  kept  on  the  22d  and  should 


178   The  Cross  of  Christ  m  Bolo-Land 


have  dropped  down  the  river  the  following 
day  to  Vigan,  but  both  the  Captain  and  his 
Lieutenant,  Beck,  urged  me  so  heartily  to  share 
their  Christmas  "kraut"  that  I  could  not 
resist. 

The  almost  incessant  bushwhacking  along  the 
river  compelled  the  greatest  vigilance  in  guard- 
ing the  supply  rafts.  In  addition  to  the  guards 
stationed,  accompanying  the  rafts  on  each  trip, 
the  garrisons  at  Pidigan  and  San  Quentin 
threw  out  patrols  for  several  miles  down  the 
canon  on  "supply  day"  to  prevent  the  Fili- 
pinos from  occupying  the  bluffs  and  firing 
down  upon  the  helpless  flotilla.  On  the  23d 
Lieutenant  Beck  invited  me  to  accompany  his 
detachment  of  thirty  men  on  this  duty.  After 
a  difficult  march  down  the  rocky  sides  of  the 
pass  for  five  or  six  miles  we  ferried  across  the 
river,  threw  out  pickets  along  the  bluffs,  and 
waited  until  Davis  and  his  outfit  came  pushing 
by,  when  we  pulled  in  the  men  and  camped 
for  the  night  on  the  river's  edge  a  short  dis- 
tance from  a  little  Tinguane  Indian  village. 

By  visiting  their  humble  settlement  I  found 
them  to  be  quite  different  from  the  Malays  and 
resembling  our  own  Indians  quite  closely,  being 
similar  in  appearance,  binding  their  long, 
coarse  hair  with  bark  and  leather  fillets, 
smoking  small  carved  stone  pipes  and  adorn- 
ing their  bodies  with  beads.     Their  houses 


Northern  Luzon  179 


were  the  regulation  shack,  devoid,  of  course,  of 
any  furniture  worthy  of  the  name,  and  from 
what  I  could  gather  from  the  soldiers  they 
were  friendly,  quiet  and  for  the  most  part 
fairly  industrious.  They  certainly  were  more 
attractive  in  appearance  than  the  Filipinos, 
with  whom  they  have  no  intercourse,  and  not 
a  few  of  the  older  faces  possessed  a  strength 
and  regularity  of  feature  and  a  dignity  and 
repose  not  far  from  patriarchal.  Concerning 
their  religion  I  could  gather  nothing  during 
my  single  hour  in  their  barrio.  They  were 
evidently  not  Romanized.  The  men  of  Beck's 
detachment  stated  that  they  were  ignorant  of 
coin  and  never  willingly  parted  with  their 
chickens,  rudely  woven  cloth  or  carved  pipes 
for  a  money  consideration,  preferring  beads, 
wire  or  cloth.  I  have  since  learned  that  the 
Tinguanes  are  probably  descended  from  ship- 
wrecked Japanese  sailors  who  were  cast  away 
on  the  Luzon  coast  two  or  more  centuries  ago. 
There  is  no  conclusive  evidence  for  the  theory, 
however. 

The  second  day  with  Lieutenant  Beck's 
detachment  was  one  involving  some  exer- 
tion. He  had  received  orders  to  scout  up  the 
mountains  toward  Bulagao  near  the  base  of 
which  a  newly-built  barrio  was  supposed  to 
be  the  rendezvous  of  an  insurgent  band.  The 
band  was  to  be  bagged  if  possible  and  the 


1 80   The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


houses  destroyed.  We  started  on  the  errand 
early  in  the  morning  of  the  24th  and  marched 
steadily  for  some  hours  up  the  stony  bed  of  an 
almost  dry  mountain  torrent,  arriving  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  doomed  barrio  not  far  from 
twelve  o'clock.  Here  a  halt  was  made,  can- 
teens, haversacks  and  blanket  rolls  discarded 
and  placed  under  a  suitable  guard  and  rifles 
carefully  examined.  Then  we  pressed  ahead 
at  a  double,  dividing  when  near  the  barrio 
into  two  encircling  detachments  and  closing 
down  on  the  place  from  both  sides  and  on  the 
run.  We  had  nothing  for  our  pains,  however, 
as  the  place  was  deserted  and  the  destruction 
of  the  little  hamlet  immediately  began. 

A  dry  bamboo  shack  with  a  thatched  roof 
makes  an  excellent  bonfire  and  as  the  air  within 
the  bamboos  expands  with  the  heat  and  bursts 
the  joints  a  succession  of  reports,  very  similar 
to  riflle  shots,  ring  out  in  rapid  succession.  So 
close  is  the  resemblance  indeed  that  when  a 
party  of  our  men  just  out  of  our  sight  opened  up 
with  their  "Krags"  on  some  Filipinos  whom 
they  discovered  up  the  valley  and  supposed  to 
be  insurgents,  as  all  peaceable  natives  had  been 
warned  out  of  the  vicinity,  we  remained  in 
ignorance  of  the  fact  for  some  minutes,  think- 
ing the  increased  noise  to  be  due  to  the  firing 
of  an  additional  shack.  In  a  half  hour  the 
entire  village  was  reduced  to  ashes  and  we 


Northern  Luzon  1 8 1 


returned  to  the  place  where  we  had  left  our 
haversacks,  cooked  our  bacon  and  coffee,  and 
after  a  short  "siesta"  in  the  shade  resumed 
our  impedimenta  and  returned  tired  out  to  our 
camp  on  the  Abra. 

Here  we  spent  our  Christmas  Eve.  The 
Tinguane  head  man  kindly  sent  over  a  chicken 
for  the  Lieutenant's  mess  and  after  our  meal 
we  built  up  the  fires  and  held  a  little  Christ- 
mas Eve  service  of  song  and  prayer.  The 
following  morning  we  marched  over  to  Pidi- 
gan  and  had  a  pleasant  Christmas  Day  with 
Captain  Martin  and  his  men.  The  afternoon 
was  filled  with  "  gun  -  and  -  belt  dashes," 
hundred  yard,  half-mile  and  potato  races, 
vaulting  and  jumping  by  the  soldiers  and  a 
variety  of  events  in  which  the  natives  took 
eager  part.  No  small  part  of  the  day's  pleas- 
ure was  the  concert  by  the  local  band  and  a 
dance  peculiar  to  the  Ilocanes  performed  by 
a  dozen  brown  youngsters,  dressed  in  red  and 
white,  with  much  posturing,  waving  of  batons 
and  childish  tableaux. 

At  dinner  under  the  mango  tree  on  the  plaza 
the  grizzled  old  veteran  who  cooked  for  the 
Captain's  mess  smilingly  brought  out  a  dish  of 
the  trenchant  "kraut"  and  we  went  to  bed  at 
night  feeling  that  we  had  at  least  emphasized 
the  occasion  a  little  and  had  not  allowed  it  to 
slip  by  in  the  same  colorless  monotony  as  other 


1 82   The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


days.  But  Christmas  is  not  Christmas  at  ninety 
in  the  shade. 

The  30th  of  the  month  found  me  again  at 
Vigan  and  the  31st  saw  me  on  board  the  little 
Spanish  coaster  "Tan-auco"  bound  north  for 
the  port  of  Aparri  at  the  mouth  of  the  Cagayan 
River.  The  "Tan-auco"  deserves  three  pages 
of  execration  as  it  was  not  long  enough  to 
reach  from  one  wave  to  another  and  behaved 
like  a  blue-billed  diver  throughout  the  trip. 
A  heavy  storm  striking  us  just  after  leaving 
Vigan,  we  were  two  days  in  reaching  our  an- 
chorage off  Aparri  and  I  saw  the  world  at  all 
angles  and  experienced  a  remarkable  range  of 
emotions  within.  Or  to  put  it  more  soberly,  I 
landed  at  Aparri  some  pounds  lighter  than 
when  I  left  Vigan,  soaked,  exhausted,  and 
feverish.  My  old  friend.  Chaplain  Springer, 
however,  had  recently  been  assigned  to  Aparri 
and  for  a  week  I  lay  in  his  quarters  kindly 
cared  for  and  brought  back  to  health. 

Dr.  Phipps  had  occupied  Aparri  as  his  head- 
quarters for  some  months  and  had  distributed 
supplies  and  conducted  services  far  up  the 
Cagayan  valley.  When  withdrawn  for  the 
more  important  work  in  China  he  had  left 
behind  in  the  rented  quarters  used  for  Associa- 
tion purposes  several  boxes  of  books  and  other 
supplies.  Chaplain  Springer  had,  immedi- 
ately upon  his  arrival,  revived  the  services  at 


Northern  Ltizon  183 


the  building,  reseated  and  decorated  it,  and 
commenced  several  lines  of  work  for  the  bene- 
fit of  the  men.  On  the  6th  of  January  I  was 
able  to  speak  for  him  at  his  Sunday  evening 
service.  In  addition  to  an  audience  of  a  hun- 
dred and  five  Americans  there  were  present  no 
less  than  a  hundred  and  forty  Ilocanes  and 
Cagayans,  who  understood  no  word  of  the  serv- 
ice but  greatly  enjoyed  it  nevertheless.  The 
Chaplain  assured  me  that  many  of  them  were 
regular  attendants.  God  grant  that  in  the 
near  future  they  may  hear  the  Gospel  in  their 
own  tongue. 

From  the  6th  to  the  12th  day  of  the  new 
year  the  Chaplain  and  I  preached  alternately 
in  the  post-chapel  and  with  some  success  in 
reviving  the  religious  life  of  the  Christian 
men  and  aiding  others  to  make  the  great  de- 
cision. During  this  period,  too,  I  made  my- 
self acquainted  with  the  port  and  its  garrison. 
Aparri  is  not  metropolitan  in  appearance,  being 
largely  built  of  thatched  huts,  but  guarding 
the  mouth  of  the  largest  river  in  the  Islands 
and  one  whose  open  valley  spreads  southward 
some  two  hundred  miles  and  contains  the  best 
tobacco  lands  in  the  archipelago,  the  little 
port  is  of  present  importance  and  assured  of  a 
future.  It  is,  too,  some  two  hundred  and  fifty 
miles  nearer  Hong-Kong  than  Manila  and  four 
hundred  miles  nearer  San  Francisco  and  this 


184   The  Cross  of  Christ  Z7i  Bolo-Land 


advantage  will  largely  outweigh  the  fact  that 
it  has  no  harbor  other  than  the  river,  the 
channel  of  which,  at  the  mouth,  changes  quite 
nonchalantly  each  rainy  season.  The  smaller 
coasting  steamers  ascend  the  river,  however, 
some  few  miles,  and  flat-bottomed  boats  similar 
to  the  "tow-boats"  on  the  Ohio  would  have  no 
trouble  in  getting  as  far  up  as  Ilagan  in  the 
flood  season. 

Colonel  Hood,  a  genial  Christian  gentleman, 
commanded  not  only  the  battalion  of  the  Six- 
teenth at  Aparri  but  the  entire  Cagayan  District 
and  upon  my  calling  upon  him  expressed  the 
hope  that  I  would,  while  in  the  District,  visit 
"all  his  boys."  He  assured  me  that  if  I  would 
consent  to  ascend  the  river  and -conduct  serv- 
ices with  the  garrisons  under  his  command 
that  he  would  be  glad  to  put  a  cavalry  horse 
and  equipment  at  my  disposal  and  attach  me 
to  a  mounted  party  which  was  to  traverse  the 
valley  soon. 

I  had  half  intended  to  return  to  Manila  over- 
land and  hearing  that  the  Depot  Quartermaster 
was  running  a  small  flat-bottomed  steamer  up 
the  river  as  far  as  Cauayin  I  had  intended  to 
glide  pleasantly  along  the  first  hundred  miles 
of  my  journey  on  that.  But  not  feeling  like 
confessing  to  the  Colonel  that  I  was  but  an 
indifferent  horseman  and  had  hitherto  ridden 
the  native  ponies  largely  because  I  could  at 


Northern  Luzon 


185 


any  alarm  find  the  ground  without  descending 
very  far,  I  accepted  his  suggestion  with  thank- 
ful lips  if  not  with  grateful  heart. 

It  soon  appeared  that  the  detachment  with 
which  I  was  to  tiavel  was  to  ascend  the  river 
by  the  trail  along  its  left  bank,  taking  up  a 
batch  of  newly-landed  horses  to  distribute  at 
the  posts  for  scouting  and  patrolling  purposes. 
A  lot  of  recruits,  or  as  the  veterans  term  them, 
"rookies,"  had  recently  been  landed  from  a 
transport  at  Aparri,  and  the  expedition  was  to 
be  largely  made  up  from  their  ranks.  It  after- 
ward appeared  that  these  men,  having  been 
recruited  in  Brooklyn  and  New  York,  were 
for  the  most  part  no  better  cavaliers  than  Cer- 
vantes' SanchoPanza,  but  having  been  cramped 
on  board  a  transport  for  fifty  days  and  doubtless 
having  read  in  pleasant  books  of  travel  of  the 
many  marvels  and  delights  of  tropical  scenery 
they  responded  very  eagerly  when  Lieutenant 
R.  H.  Hearne,  who  was  to  have  command  of 
the  outfit,  went  over  to  their  quarters  with  the 
query,  "Who  among  you  men  can  ride  a 
horse?"  None  among  them  doubted  their 
ability  and  the  twenty  men  were  easily 
secured. 

The  day  before  we  started  the  outfit  was 
allowed  a  practice  or  field-day,  each  man  of 
the  favored  twenty  going  down  to  the  newly- 
received  lot  of  Oregon  horses  at  the  corral  and 


1 86   The  Cross  of  Christ  hi  Bolo-Land 


leading  his  choice  up  to  the  plaza  before  the 
inspecting  eyes  of  Colonel  Hood,  Captain 
Newton  and  other  genial  gentlemen  who  sat 
their  horses  with  disgraceful  ease  of  manner 
and  waited  for  things  to  happen.  It  soon 
developed  that  many  of  these  new  horses  had 
no  great  acquaintance  with  a  saddle  and 
accoutrements,  for  when  the  command  was 
given  to  saddle  up  there  were  strange  times  on 
the  turf  and  some  of  the  animals  were  only 
subdued  sufficiently  when  hauled  by  a  half 
dozen  infantrymen  to  a  tree  and  helplessly 
tied.  When  the  last  saddle  was  on  and  the  last 
scuffle  had  subsided  the  relentless  Lieutenant 
gave  the  command  to  mount,  and  not  daring 
to  disobey,  each  luckless  fellow  threw  himself 
on  his  animal  and  cutting  his  cables  cruised 
away  over  tempestuous  seas.  All  the  tricks 
which  the  horses  of  the  past  have  bequeathed 
to  the  equines  of  the  present  and  all  the  mod- 
ern, up-to-date  stratagems  which  our  more 
inventive  century  has  added  to  their  lore  were 
exhibited  at  their  best  before  our  eyes  and 
"rookies"  were  jounced  and  bounced,  bowled 
and  rolled,  in  a  most  surprising  manner.  The 
inspecting  officers  were  soon  in  a  helpless  con- 
dition from  laughter  while  I,  after  gazing  on 
the  tournay  for  a  few  dismayed  seconds,  stole 
over  to  Veterinary  Knepper  and  asked  him  to 
select  me  a  mount  such  as  he  would  consider 


Northern  Luzon  187 


ideal  for  a  child  of  three!  I  consequently 
escaped  playing  so  painful  a  part  as  the  others 
and,  on  the  day  following  our  well-appreciated 
exhibition,  rode  out  of  Aparri  on  the  back  of 
an  old  stager  whose  hoof  mark  showed  him  to 
have  been  at  one  time  an  honored  member  of 
the  Fourth  Cavalry. 

Our  starting  day  had  its  trials,  however,  as 
our  one  day's  practice  had  not  made  us  all 
graceful  riders  by  any  means,  and  now,  in 
addition  to  the  management  of  a  horse  and 
its  equipments,  each  man  was  loaded  down 
with  a  "Long  Tom"  rifle  and  a  heavy  cart- 
ridge belt  and  was  leading  three  additional 
animals.  We  had  hardly  gotten  beyond  the 
Colonel's  kindly  farewell  when  insecure  riders 
began  to  drop  leading  straps  and  horses  began 
to  stampede.  As  the  Lieutenant,  Dr.  Knep- 
per  and  myself  were  the  only  unencumbered 
riders  it  became  our  duty  to  round  up  the  ex- 
cited and  snorting  horses,  several  of  whom  even 
left  the  trail  about  dusk  and  swam  over  to  a 
marshy  island  in  the  river.  It  was  while  being 
thus  cheerfully  engaged  that  I  saw  the  com- 
fortable Q.  M.  D.  steamer  paddling  up  the 
Cagayan  in  the  sunset,  making  a  very  attract- 
ive picture  with  her  gay  flag  showing  against 
the  foliaged  banks  and  her  rippling  wake 
spreading  out  like  an  opening  fan  over  the 
broad  surface  of  the  river.    Alas!  I  was  not  on 


1 88   TJu  Cross  of  Christ  ni  Bolo-Land 


board  her  and  rode  into  Laloc  nicely  plated 
with  mud,  slopped  around  the  horse-lines  in  a 
swampy  field  to  get  "Old  Safety"  his  hay  and 
oats  and  got  to  my  own  supper  at  a  wearisome 
hour — far  too  late  to  allow  of  the  hoped-for 
service  with  the  Laloc  garrison.  The  mule- 
train  carrying  our  rations  and  forage  did  not 
get  in  until  midnight,  having  met  with  diffi- 
culties in  the  carabao  wallows  along  the  road. 

The  following  day  was  even  more  vexatious 
and  my  notebook  mournfully  chronicles: 
"Left  Laloc  at  8:30  a.m.  after  numerous 
delays.  Fair  road  for  a  mile  and  a  half  and 
then  a  fearsome  ditch  through  which  we  almost 
swam  our  stock  until  both  they  and  the  men 
were  decorated  with  telling  patterns  in  Caga- 
yan  soil.  A  little  further  on  and  the  ditch 
narrowed  to  a  carabao  track  with  heavy  forest 
pressing  us  closely — the  first  real  large  timber 
1  have  ridden  through  on  the  Islands.  Lacing 
these  trees  were  masses  of  creepers  and  clam- 
bering vines  whose  clinging  tendrils  reached 
hospitably  out  to  check  us  as  we  brushed  along. 
A  half  mile  within  this  jungle  the  only  word 
fitly  describing  the  route  was  the  word  appall- 
ing, as  the  trail  wound  up  over  ledges  and 
down  through  ravines  so  that  we  were  either 
stumbling  and  slipping  over  clay-plastered 
rocks  on  the  ridges  or  sinking  to  the  horses' 
girths  in  the  hollows.    It  was  impossible  for 


A^ortJiern  Luzon  189 


the  animals  to  get  a  footing  in  the  center  of 
the  trail  and  we  were  compelled  to  encroach 
upon  the  jungle,  taking  the  poisonous  slap- 
ping growth  in  the  face  and  scraping  off  large 
red  ants  to  devour  us.  Halts  were  numerous 
at  exceptionally  muddy  places  as  the  stock 
was  continually  getting  mixed,  mules  mired 
and  riders  either  thrown  or  obliged  to  dismount 
from  foundered  beasts  and  trudge  along  in 
mud  up  to  their  legging  tops,  while  the  narrow- 
ness of  the  trail  caused  every  accident  to  block 
the  whole  line.  Becoming  thoroughly  ex- 
hausted we  forgot  about  the  beauty  of  the 
dense  growth  with  its  monkeys  and  birds  and 
festoons  of  blossoms  and  worked  along  with 
rough  seas  beneath  our  feet  and  poorly  re- 
pressed tempests  within  our  breasts. 

"Unable  to  make  our  intended  destination  we 
camped  at  nightfall  in  a  cleared  space  near  the 
misty  bank  of  an  old  slough.  More  weary 
work  looking  after  the  animals  and  then 
another  late  supper,  this  time  out  of  a  cracker- 
tin  and  sardine-can,  sitting  on  the  floor  of  an 
abandoned  and  rotting  shack.  Just  before 
partaking  of  this  fare  I  inquired  of  'Dad' 
Young,  our  chief  packer,  the  whereabouts  of 
my  folding  cot  which  had  been  placed  on  the 
crown  of  a  mule-pack  and  was  informed  that 
it  had  been  abandoned  some  miles  back  as  it 
had  been  badly  ripped  by  catching   in  the 


iQO  TJu  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bole- Land 


bamboos.  As  we  were  getting  our  coffee  off 
the  fire  he  came  up  to  add  that  the  pack-train 
had  come  through  with  the  loss  of  but  one  load 
but  that  load,  unfortunately,  contained  my 
only  other  possession,  my  valise  with  all  its 
clothing,  papers  and  books.  I  regret  this  loss 
exceedingly  as  it  includes  my  journal  covering 
the  past  five  months.  I  now  possess  only  what 
I  have  on  my  person.  Well,  Paul  the  Itin- 
erant was  doubtless  as  short  on  more  than  one 
occasion  and  I'll  warrant  carried  no  valise  or 
folding  cot.  (Here  Satan  suggests  that  I  have 
suffered  one  pang  which  the  apostle  was  not 
called  on  to  endure!)" 

On  the  i8th,  I  wrote  from  Gataran:  "Reached 
here  after  another  hard  experience  in  which 
one  of  the  men,  Murther,  lost  his  rifle  in  one 
carabao  wallow  and  nearly  lost  his  life  in 
another — his  horse  falling  back  upon  him  and 
burying  him  entirely  with  the  exception  of  the 
face.  He  was  rescued  from  suffocation  with 
difficulty  as  the  horse  was  too  exhausted  to  rise 
and  release  him  The  dense  growth  continues. 
Lost  the  column  once  to-day  by  taking  the 
wrong  fork,  but  retraced  my  way  and  found  the 
outfit  again  with  the  aid  of  a  stray  Ilocano. 
Reached  this  point  at  noon,  picketed  our  j 
horses  and  mules  and  got  our  first  wash  for 
two  days.  The  garrison  here  consists  of  but 
twelve  men  and  a  corporal.    Held  a  service 


Northern  Ltizon 


IQI 


for  their  benefit  at  seven  this  evening.  Our 
men  attended  and  we  had  a  blessing." 

From  camp  on  the  following  night:  "Left 
Gataran  at  4: 45  and  tried  to  make  Alcala.  One 
man,  Taylor,  separated  from  us  and  fate  un- 
known. Several  horses  refused  a  ford  some 
miles  back  on  the  trail  and  tore  away  from  their 
holders.  The  last  seen  they  were  en  route  to 
Aparri.  'Dad'  has  been  sent  on  ahead  to-night 
to  Alcala  with  his  arm  sliced  open  by  a  mule 
kick.  The  pack  train  makes  slow  time  with- 
out him.  Late  this  afternoon  the  trail  came 
up  out  of  the  mud  and  jungle  and  wound  over 
high  grassy  hills  from  the  summits  of  which 
we  had  an  imposing  view  of  the  great  valley 
with  its  broad  ribbon  of  silver  shining  between 
green  foliage  and  yellow  rice  fields.  Not  even 
the  Hudson  Valley  furnishes  a  finer  picture. 
Delays  at  some  almost  impassable  ravines  held 
us  until  darkness  overtook  us  and  we  were 
compelled  to  camp  in  the  pampas  grass  in  a 
drizzle.  Have  been  in  the  saddle  thirteen 
hours  and  am  honestly  tired.  Have  the  honor 
of  being  the  dirtiest  man  in  the  crowd  as 
'Safety'  rolled  over  with  me  in  a  pit  of  black 
loam.  When  I  came  to  the  surface  and 
remounted  the  boys  had  me  'pass  in  review.' 

From  Alcala:  "Broke  camp  early  this  morn- 
ing and  saw  an  interesting  sight  as  we  pulled 
out.    Some  of  the  rice-paddies  near  by  were 


192    The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


ripening  to  the  harvest  and  greedy  rice-birds 
were  settling  in  them.  At  Aparri  I  had 
noticed  that  scare-crows  were  used  to  protect 
the  rice  and  in  Negros  a  line  of  flag-wavers 
keep  locusts  from  the  sugar-cane,  but  here 
they  have  more  genius.  Around  the  field  at 
large  intervals  tall  bamboos  are  firmly  planted, 
split  down  from  the  top  for  several  feet.  A 
little  thatch-covered  perch  is  erected  at  the 
field's  edge  with  fiber  ropes  attached  to  each 
pole  leading  thither.  A  couple  of  'muchachos' 
occupy  the  shelter  and  when  the  birds  settle 
in  a  certain  part  of  the  field  the  youngsters 
jerk  the  ropes  and  shake  the  bamboos  nearest 
the  covey.  The  split  poles  make  a  great  clat- 
ter and  the  frightened  birds  decamp.  I  noticed 
in  one  field  an  improvement  on  the  system — 
a  horizontal  bamboo  being  lashed  across  one  of 
the  uprights.  On  one  end  of  this  cross-piece  was 
tied  a  large  bunch  of  dried  grass  and  the  rope 
was  attached  to  the  opposite  end.  By  jerking 
the  rope  the  cross-piece  swung  the  bunch  of 
grass  in  a  semi-circle  just  above  the  field, 
driving  the  birds  from  the  grain.  While 
the  bamboos  rattle  the  boys  in  the  look-out 
shout  their  'Wa-ee!  Wa-ee-e-e!'  and  those 
working  in  the  field  reinforce  them  at  intervals 
by  a  lusty  and  long-drawn  'Hoyee!  Hoyeel' 

"The  soldiers  at  this  point  belong  to  the 
Forty-ninth  (colored)  and  the  captain  received 


N^orthern  Luzon 


193 


us  very  heartily.  At  seven  I  held  the  usual  serv- 
ice, the  first  the  company  had  enjoyed  since 
coming  to  the  Islands.  The  colored  men  sang 
finely  and  the  brethren  among  them  encour- 
aged me  with  earnest  'Amensl'  The  men  off 
guard  were  all  present  and  several  packers 
belonging  to  our  mule-train  as  well.  We  rest 
here  to-morrow  as  several  of  the  horses  are 
badly  used  up." 

Thus  the  notebook  prattles  on.  To  avoid 
its  chatter  let  me  abbreviate  by  saying  that  we 
made  Echague  some  two  weeks  after  leaving 
Aparri  having  conducted  services  and  become 
somewhat  acquainted  with  garrison  conditions 
at  Tuguegarao,  Cabagan  Nuevo,  Ilagan,  Caua- 
yin  and  other  unpronounceable  points,  and 
seeing  not  a  little  of  the  country,  its  people 
and  their  life.  Our  outfit  went  no  farther 
than  Echague,  but,  bidding  farewell  to  Dr. 
Knepper,  the  Lieutenant,  the  packers  and  the 
soldiers,  I  pressed  on  to  Cordon,  where  the 
native  band  insisted  upon  honoring  me  with  a 
serenade  at  five  in  the  morning,  and  the  entire 
population  (say  a  hundred  all  told)  lined  up 
at  my  departure  and  humbly  doffed  their  hats 
with  a  "Good-bye,  Padre,  come  again  soon!" 
the  band,  stimulated  by  a  peso,  playing  me 
out  of  sight. 

From  Cordon  to  Solano  I  enjoyed  the  com- 
panionship of  eight  soldiers,   two  carabaos 


194  The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


carrying  the  rations  and  several  attendant 
Ilocanes.  Soon  after  leaving  the  town  the  trail 
crossed  high  grassy  ranges  well  watered  by 
several  excellent  streams.  The  rise  was 
steady  for  some  twelve  miles  when  we  reached 
the  top  of  the  divide  and  looked  down  into 
the  valley  of  the  Magat  in  which  Bagabag, 
our  next  halt,  was  supposed  to  lie.  We 
plunged  rapidly  ahead  and  reached  the  Magat 
river  at  nightfall.  The  ferryman  was  not  in 
sight,  although  we  could  just  make  out  the 
outline  of  his  craft  on  the  other  side  of  the 
racing  current.  So  we  stood  in  the  rain  and 
shouted,  first  singly,  then  by  couples  and 
squads,  "Banquero!  banquero  -  o  -  o  -  o!"  But 
no  response  came  from  the  shadows  opposite, 
and  being  informed  by  the  natives  with  us  that 
the  river  was  unfordable  we  camped  in  the 
drizzle  and  tried  to  make  ourselves  comfort- 
able for  the  night  on  the  hard  stones  of  the 
bank.  But  after  cooking  and  eating  an 
"Eagan  and  Otis"  supper  we  determined  to 
make  an  attempt  at  least  to  ford,  for  good 
barracks  were  awaiting  us  at  Bagabag.  Three 
of  the  men  accordingly  stripped  from  head  to 
foot  and  after  scouting  up  and  down  the  bank 
looking  for  a  "riffle,"  struck  timidly  out 
directly  opposite  our  camp-fire;  and  found  to 
their  disgust  that  the  dangerous  Magat  was 
only  knee  deep.  We  at  once  went  on  our  way, 


N^orther7i  Luzon 


195 


reaching  Bagabag  at  9:  30  and  succeeding  in 
making  ourselves  known  to  the  sentry  without 
getting  shot  for  insurgents. 

Solano  was  reached  the  following  day  and  in 
addition  to  the  courtesies  of  the  commanding 
officer,  Captain  Johnson,  and  the  blessing  of  a 
service  with  the  men  of  Co.  "C, "  I  enjoyed  a  visit 
to  the  Igorrote  village  which  forms  one  section 
of  the  town.  I  found  the  inhabitants  to  differ 
materially  from  the  Calinga  and  Tinguane 
Indians,  being  larger  and  lighter  in  color,  with 
flattened  lips  and  broad  nose.  They  affected 
brass  anklets,  bracelets  and  ear-rings,  wore 
their  long  hair  down  in  their  eyes,  carried 
knives  and  spears  about  with  them  even  in  the 
peaceful  streets  of  the  village  and  wore  little 
more  than  a  "gee-string."  Unlike  our  own 
Indians  they  were  willing  to  work  but  preferred 
the  hunt,  and  were,  I  was  told,  generally 
peaceful  and  quiet.  Their  homes  differed  but 
little  from  those  of  their  Filipino  neighbors. 

On  the  7th  of  February  I  crossed  the  great 
Caraballa  Sur  Pass,  after  my  hardest  climb  in 
the  Islands,  and  dropped  down  out  of  the  mist 
and  rain  on  its  summit  into  the  warmth  of  the 
sunshine  which  flooded  its  western  face.  Re- 
sisting the  almost  tearful  entreaties  of  a 
drunken  detachment  at  the  foot  of  the  range 
to  tarry  with  them  for  the  night  and  favor 
them  with  a   sermon  (which  they  earnestly 


iq6    The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


assured  me  they  stood  in  great  need  of!)  I  rode 
on  into  Carranglan,  having  made  thirty-four 
miles  since  daybreak.  From  this  point  my 
way  into  Manila  involved  little  hardship  and 
after  visiting  the  garrisons  of  the  Twenty-fourth 
Regiment  at  San  Jose  and  Humingin,  reached 
the  line  of  the  Manila  &  Dagupan  Railway 
at  Bautista,  and  a  few  hours  later  steamed  into 
the  "Union  Depot"  at  Tondo,  reported  my 
arrival  to  Hearne  and  went  off  for  a  shave  with 
the  satisfaction  of  knowing  that  I  had  made 
some  nine  hundred  miles  since  last  seeing 
Manila,  two  hundred  and  ninety  of  it  by  horse, 
forty  by  raft,  fifty  on  foot,  twenty-five  by 
wagon,  one  hundred  by  rail  and  the  rest  by 
steamer,  and  was  much  the  better  able  to 
appreciate  the  meaning  of  a  map  of  Luzon. 


X 

/Dtsstonars  Conditions  of  Zo*^a^ 


IND  now  in  candor  let  me  say,  as 
I  begin  the  last  chapter  of  this 
narrative,  that  if  any  have  been 
so  interested  as  to  follow  me  thus 
far,  I  shall  use  that  interest  as 
an  excuse  for  abruptly  leaving 
them  in  the  city  of  Manila.  This 
for  two  reasons.  The  first  is, 
that  my  homeward  voyage  was 
quite  unlike  my  outward  journey, 
Al^y  for  I  was  inconsiderately  rolled 
and  pitched  by  an  unkind  sea 
all  the  way  from  Corregidor  to 
Nagasaki  and  from  Nagasaki  to  Puget  Sound, 
and  I  naturally  hesitate  to  ask  the  inter- 
ested one  to  share  my  woeful  journey.  But 
th  ere  is  a  better  reason.  If  what  I  may 
have  chronicled  in  these  pages  has  aroused 
an  interest,  however  slender,  in  either  the 
work  for  Christ  among  the  troops  or  among 
the  natives,  I  shall  not  risk  destroying  the 
main  object  of  my  labor  by  bringing  the 
reader  again  to  American  soil.  My  earnest 
hope  is  that  a  certain  share  of  his  or  her  inter- 
est and  prayer  may  never  leave  the  archi- 
pelago until  the  words  of  Isaiah  have  their 
197 


198  The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


fulfillment  and  the  people  of  the  isles  of  the 
sea  unitedly  praise  the  redeeming  Christ. 

The  work  of  the  Army  and  Navy  Association 
had  steadily  developed  during  my  two  months 
in  the  north  of  the  island.  Our  headquarters 
were  no  longer  in  the  rambling  old  Cuartel, 
but  established  in  a  much  more  suitable  build- 
ing on  Calles  Real  and  Legaspi  within  the 
Walled  City.  I  was  not  only  greeted  by 
Hearne,  Hunter  and  Webb,  upon  my  return, 
but  by  two  additional  secretaries,  recently 
arrived,  and  both  men  of  experience  in  the 
Army  work.  Mr.  Z.  C.  Collins  had  relin- 
quished control  of  the  Porto  Rico  Army  Asso- 
ciation in  order  to  reinforce  our  more  needy 
field,  and  Mr.  M.  G.  Bailey  had  secured  a 
wide  and  useful  experience  in  the  tent  work  at 
Tampa  and  Montauk  Point  in  '98  and  in  the 
garrisons  about  New  York  City  in  '99  and  '00. 
Gloeckner,  who  had  been  burying  himself 
from  sight  in  arduous  field  work  in  Cebu, 
Bohol  and  Samar  for  the  past  year,  had  also 
come  up  to  confer  with  Hearne  about  his  work 
for  the  coming  months,  and  the  presence  of 
these  men,  constituting,  with  the  exception  of 
Phipps,  our  entire  force,  suggested  the  expe- 
diency of  a  Secretarial  Conference.  Accord- 
ingly the  afternoons  of  the  last  week  in  Feb- 
ruary were  largely  occupied  by  discussion  of 
methods,  plans  for  the  future  of  the  work,  and 


Missionary  Conditions  of  To-day  199 


prayer  for  the  blessing  and  guidance  of  the 
Spirit  of  God. 

Immediately  following  this  Conference  I 
conducted  my  last  evangelistic  meetings  in  the 
Islands,  partly  at  Camp  Wallace,  in  Bailey's 
canvas  Y.  M  C.  A  erected  among  the 
camping  soldiers  on  the  Luneta,  and  partly  at 
the  headquarters,  where  unusual  blessing  at- 
tended the  crowded  services.  These  evangel- 
istic efforts  were  followed  up  by  a  popular 
Bible  Institute  for  the  troops,  which  resulted 
in  the  organization  of  a  permanent  class  under 
the  efficient  leadership  of  Maj.  E.  W.  Halford, 
a  devoted  friend  and  valued  adviser  of  our 
work.  Gloeckner  returned  to  the  Visayas, 
but  this  time  to  reoccupy  my  old  station  at 
Iloilo;  Bailey,  as  already  hinted,  opened  up 
tent  work  with  the  men  of  the  returning  regi- 
ments, several  of  which  were  nearing  the  end 
of  their  service  and  were  being  concentrated  in 
Manila  in  readiness  for  their  transportation 
home;  Collins  was  given  the  heavy  burden  of 
the  city  work  at  headquarters;  Hunter  was 
transferred  from  Cavite  to  the  new  naval  sta- 
tion on  Subig  Bay,  and  Webb  was  assigned  to 
the  work  among  the  Marines.  Hearne  was 
thus  at  last  freed  for  his  invaluable  work  of 
general  supervision. 

I  had  found,  upon  my  return  to  Manila  from 
the  Cagayan  Valley,  that  a  new  political  party 


200   The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


had  sprung  up  among  the  nativ-es,  known  as 
the  "Partido  Federal."  This  was  a  movement 
on  the  part  of  those  most  desirous  of  peace, 
and  was  the  fruitage  of  a  two-years'  acquaint- 
ance with  Americanism  in  and  about  the  cap- 
ital. Committees  had  been  formed  in  the 
different  quarters  of  the  city,  and  rallies  con- 
ducted. The  most  enthusiasm  was  evidenced 
in  Tondo,  the  most  distinctively  Tagalo  quar- 
ter. The  Federalists  advocated  the  discon- 
tinuance of  guerrilla  warfare  on  the  part  of  the 
insurgents,  professed  a  desire  to  co-operate  in 
every  possible  way  with  the  American  govern- 
ment in  establishing  good  order  and  good  gov- 
ernment, and  even  went  so  far  as  to  outline  a 
constitution  for  the  Islands  to  be  administered 
under  American  control.  The  movement 
enlisted  the  sympathy  of  a  large  body  of 
prominent  Filipinos,  and  was  of  course  favor- 
ably regarded  by  the  military  government. 
Tondo  and  other  points  in  and  around  Manila 
held  the  initial  strength  of  the  movement,  but 
the  party  has  since  been  quite  successfully 
organized  not  only  in  Luzon  but  the  Visayas  as 
well. 

The  movement  in  the  beginning  was  not 
entirely  political.  The  Tondo  Committee  of 
the  "Partido  Federal"  voted  as  a  body  to 
secede  from  the  Roman  Church.  This  action 
was  taken  without  outside  suggestion  or  pres- 


Missionary  Conditions  of  To-day  20T 


sure,  and  was  due  to  the  deep  distrust  felt  by 
the  more  intelligent  Filipinos  of  a  system  so 
full  of  extortion  and  fraud  as  the  so-called 
Church  had  proven  itself.  The  mass  of  the 
people  had  always  cried  out  against  the 
friars,  but  clung  to  the  padres.  This  com- 
mittee was  more  logical  and  laid  the  blame 
upon  the  system  which  tolerated  and  encour- 
aged if  it  did  not  actually  nourish  the  sins 
of  the  friars.  Some  of  its  members  having 
heard  outlines  of  Protestant  faith  occasionally 
from  the  lips  of  Rev.  James  B.  Rodgers,  sug- 
gested that  he  be  called  upon  to  address  one  of 
the  mass-meetings  then  being  held  in  the  inter- 
est of  the  Federal  Party,  each  Sunday,  in  the 
Tondo  quarter. 

A  delegation  accordingly  waited  upon  Mr. 
Rodgers,  informed  him  of  their  withdrawal 
from  the  Roman  Church,  and  preferred  their 
request.  He  acceded  to  their  proposal  to 
speak  at  10  o'clock  the  following  Sunday  in 
the  "Teatro  Rizal,"  and  preached  at  that  time 
and  place  to  several  hundred  natives,  who 
listened  intently  to  both  his  address  and  the 
political  speeches  which  also  had  part  on  the 
program.  It  was  not  an  ideal  Protestant  serv- 
ice, and  the  passing  of  beer  around  the  audi- 
ence during  the  sermon,  as  well  as  other  secular 
matters,  showed  the  necessity  of  ensuring  a 
more  distinctly  religious  tone.  Accordingly 


202    The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


Senor  Buencamino,  the  head  of  the  Federal 
party  in  Tondo,  arose  at  the  conclusion  of  the 
meeting  to  announce  that  on  the  following 
Sunday  the  gathering  would  be  entirely  in  the 
hands  of  Pastor  Rodgers,  and  would  be  non- 
political.  This  announcement  was  carried  out. 
The  meeting  was  largely  attended,  and  had 
been  repeated  each  Sunday  morning  since. 

I  attended  at  my  earliest  opportunity. 
After  a  two-mile  walk  across  the  hot  city  I 
halted  before  a  large  wooden  wigwam  with  a 
corrugated  iron  roof,  and  lettered  over  the 
entrance,  "Teatro  Rizal."  A  swarm  of  Fili- 
pinos eddied  through  the  opening  in  the  high 
slat  fence  across  its  front,  or  gathered  under  a 
rude  arch  decorated  with  American  flags, 
spanning  the  street  in  front  of  the  building. 
Elbowing  my  way  within,  I  found  myself 
in  a  large  audience  room  seated  in  the  pit  with 
rattan  chairs,  and  along  the  sides  with  tiers  of 
"circus  benches,"  while  at  the  farther  end  a 
large  stage,  flanked  by  crude  boxes  and  fitted 
with  cheap  scenery,  stretched  entirely  across 
the  building's  width.  The  effect  was  bare  and 
barn-like,  and  only  of  redeeming  interest 
because  the  pit  was  already  filled  with  white- 
coated  and  straw-hatted  men,  and  even  the  side 
benches  were  beginning  to  attract  clambering 
people. 

Prominent  Federalists  and  Protestant  sym- 


Missionary  Conditions  of  To-day  203 


pathizers  were  in  seats  of  honor  on  the  stage, 
and  a  little  group  of  natives  from  Mr.  Rodgers' 
mission  were  assembled  about  Mrs.  Rodgers 
and  her  portable  organ  at  one  edge  of  the 
stage,  to  act  as  choir.  Senor  Buencamino, 
portly  and  fatherly,  occupied  a  position  at 
the  rear-center.  The  hall  continued  to  fill, 
and  the  large  building  was  two-thirds  full 
when  Buencamino  arose  and  requested  the 
people  to  "respect  the  presence  of  God"  by 
throwing  away  their  cigars  and  removing  their 
hats — a  suggestion  promptly  complied  with. 
The  man  who  distributed  the  song-sheets  (our 
familiar  hymns  in  Spanish)  was  fairly  mobbed 
by  eager  people,  and  a  native  string-band  in 
the  orchestra  seats  struck  up  a  lively  prelude. 
Immediately  at  its  finish  Mr.  Rodgers  advanced 
to  a  table  at  the  front  of  the  stage  upon  which 
was  lying  the  Word  of  God,  and  announced 
the  first  hymn.  The  little  choir,  reinforced  by 
a  large  number  of  voices  from  the  audience, 
carried  it  safely  through.  A  native  repeated 
the  Lord's  Prayer,  phrase  by  phrase,  in  Span- 
•  ish,  and  was  echoed  by  the  audience.  Then 
came  another  hymn  and  a  reading  of  the  four- 
teenth chapter  of  Acts.  Then  Pastor  Rodgers 
offered  up  a  general  petition,  and  after  a  third 
hymn  preached  a  strong  sermon  from  I  Tim. 
2:  5.  This  sermon  was  also  in  Spanish,  and 
enlisted  the  close  attention  of  the  audience. 


204   The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


but  for  the  benefit  of  many  present  whose 
knowledge  of  Spanish  was  limited,  it  was  fol- 
lowed by  an  address  in  Tagalo  by  Senor 
Zamora,  a  staunch  adherent  of  the  Presbyterian 
Mission.  He  spoke  at  some  length,  and  by 
the  effect  upon  his  audience,  which  responded 
with  approving  words  and  occasional  laughter, 
he  must  have  reached  them  with  his  message. 
Another  hymn  followed,  and  after  a  short 
address  from  Buencamino  counseling  modera- 
tion and  avoidance  of  all  bitterness  toward  the 
Roman  Church,  the  service  was  closed  by  Mr. 
Rodgers.  Between  five  hundred  and  six  hun- 
dred Filipinos  heard  the  Gospel  that  day, 
many  helped  to  sing  it,  and  all  seemed  inter- 
ested in  it.  The  spirit  of  the  meeting  seemed 
excellent. 

I  sailed  from  Manila  for  America  on  the  24th 
of  March,  but  these  meetings  in  the  "Teatro 
Rizal"  continued  some  weeks  later,  and  with, 
in  the  end,  no  little  spiritual  blessing.  The 
Federal  Party  soon  saw  that  an  alliance  with 
Protestantism  was  impracticable,  and  interfered 
with  the  political  ends  they  were  striving  to 
accomplish,  but  the  judgment  and  tact  of  Mr. 
Rodgers  and  other  Manila  missionaries  during 
the  inception  of  the  movement  had  caused  it 
to  contribute  no  little  to  the  cause  of  evan- 
gelical missions.  In  addition  to  this  new 
responsibility    laid    upon    the  Presbyterian 


Missionary  Conditions  of  To-day  205 


brethren,  Mr.  L.  P.  Davadson  of  the  same  Mis- 
sion opened  up  a  promising  work  at  Hagonoy 
in  Pampanga,  where  the  entire  population  of 
the  little  town  received  him  gladly,  and  with 
one  accord  attended  his  weekly  services  and 
welcomed  him  to  their  homes  to  discuss  the 
Glad  Tidings.  Davidson  has  since  died  of 
appendicitis,  the  first  American  to  offer  up  his 
life  on  Philippine  soil  for  the  sake  of  the 
Gospel.  His  death  has  taken  from  the  field 
one  of  the  sunniest  and  truest  of  God's  noble- 
men. 

Even  greater  blessing  seemed  to  attend  the 
labors  of  Mr.  McLaughlin  and  his  associates  in 
the  Methodist  Mission.  As  early  as  the  fall  of 
1900,  3,000  natives  attended  weekly  the  fourteen 
services  of  this  Mission.  At  Melibay,  a  pueblo 
some  miles  south  of  the  Walled  City,  young 
Nicolas  Zamora  preached  each  Lord's  Day  to 
seven  hundred  Tagalo  hearers  and  several 
small  barrios  near  the  city,  in  the  first  months 
of  1901,  went  bodily  over  to  the  new  religion. 
The  erection  of  two  chapels  soon  followed.  I 
had  the  privilege  of  attending  the  dedicatory 
exercises  of  what  we  nicknamed  "St.  Peter's" 
Methodist  Church,  a  little  bamboo  structure 
on  the  outskirts  of  Tondo  erected  entirely  by 
the  poor  fishermen  of  the  quarter.  It  was  not 
far  from  the  immense  mass  of  the  Tondo 
Catholic  Church,  which,  rising  over  it,  dwarfed 


2o6   The  Cross  oj  ChHst  in  Bolo-Land 


it  into  insignificance.  But  we  went  away 
from  the  enthusiastic  exercises  thinking  that  a 
mustard  seed  was  more  promising  than  a 
monument! 

As  might  be  safely  prophesied,  these  pop- 
ular movements  in  favor  of  the  Protestant 
proselyters  were  not  unattended  by  persecu- 
tions of  a  petty  sort,  the  bulk  of  which,  of 
course,  fell  upon  the  native  converts.  It  is 
interesting  to  read  in  the  "Manila  Times"  of 
Februar)'  26,  a  side-light  on  the  conditions  then 
prevailing: 

"The  aggressiveness  and  success  of  the 
Protestant  faith  among  the  Filipinos  who 
were  formerly  Catholics  are  apparently  ever>'- 
where  stirring  up  counteraction  on  the  part  of 
the  friars.  It  is  only  a  short  time  since 
Nicolas  Zamora.  the  native  preacher,  and  two 
or  three  hundred  Protestant  natives  we  reim- 
prisoned  on  false  charges  preferred  by  other 
natives  who  were  instigated  by  the  friars;  Jose 
Salamanca,  the  native  preacher  of  Cavite,  is 
still  in  jail  pending  investigation  of  his 
charges;  and  now  Bonifacio  \'arges.  another 
convert  and  prosel>'te.  has  been  arrested  on  the 
charge  of  being  an  insurrecto,  and  thrown  into 
prison. 

"The  story  surrounding  Varges  is  somewhat 
involved.  For  some  time  the  Methodists  have 
been  quite  active  in  the  barrio  of  Gagalangin, 


Missionary  Conditions  of  To-day  207 


and  Varges  has  been  one  of  their  ablest  and 
most  energetic  helpers.  No  open  opposition 
was  entered  upon  by  the  friars  until  the  last 
two  or  three  days,  when  trouble  arose  over  the 
question  of  ownership  of  the  church,  and  the 
right  of  using  it.  For  the  past  year  four  poor 
widows  and  their  children  have  used  the 
church  as  a  dwelling,  with  the  consent  of  the 
rest  of  the  people,  as  they  could  not  afford  a 
house.  No  objection  was  ever  offered  until 
during  the  present  month,  when  the  native 
friar.  Father  Estefan,  ordered  the  church 
closed  and  locked.  As  the  people  of  the  barrio 
themselves  built  the  church  with  their  own 
money,  and  the  friar  showed  no  interest  in  it 
beyond  preaching  whenever  a  hundred  dollars 
was  forthcoming,  they  felt  they  had  a  right  to 
the  building,  and  broke  the  lock,  forcing  an 
entrance. 

"Yesterday,  the  native  police  took  a  hand  in 
the  matter,  throwing  the  people  and  their  bed- 
ding out  of  the  building,  by  orders  of  the 
native  Lieutenant  of  the  place.  As  he  is  a 
Catholic,  it  is  fair  to  infer  where  he  got  his 
orders. 

"Despite  their  homeless  condition,  the 
ejected  people  and  their  friends  kept  in  cheer- 
ful mood,  and  yesterday  afternoon  joined 
heartily  in  the  Protestant  service  which  had 
been  the  cause  of  their  misfortunes.  During 


2o8    The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


the  service  seventeen  expressed  a  desire  for 
baptism,  and  were  accordingly  baptized. 

"Towards  the  close  of  the  service  the  de- 
nouement came,  when  Bonifacio  Varges,  the 
real  leader  among  the  native  Protestants,  was 
arrested  by  the  native  police  as  an  insurrecto, 
and  hurried  off  to  jail,  where,  like  Salamanca, 
he  will  probably  have  to  undergo  durance  of 
several  weeks  until  the  authorities  can  get  time 
to  investigate  his  case. 

"The  trumped-up  nature  of  the  charges 
against  Varges  is  apparent  from  the  fact  that 
he  was  arrested  only  a  month  ago  on  a  like 
presumption,  and  found  guiltless,  and  also  that 
of  late  he  has  always  shown  his  sympathy  for 
the  American  cause.  He  has  been  prominent 
in  the  Federal  movement,  and  outspoken  in 
his  advocacy  of  the  separation  of  Church  and 
State.  In  the  procession  at  the  Luneta  last 
Friday  in  honor  of  Washington,  Varges  and 
eighty  of  his  companions  marched  with  a  big 
banner  at  their  head,  and  joined  in  doing  honor 
to  America's  first  President. 

"Probably  the  immediate  cause  of  Varges' 
arrest  is  a  petition  which  he  presented  to  Presi- 
dent Taft  last  Saturday,  in  the  name  of  the 
Protestant  people  of  the  barrio  of  Gagalangin. 
The  petition  stated  that  the  church  of  the 
barrio  had  been  paid  for  by  the  people  them- 
selves, and  no  priest  or  friar  had  a  right  to  dis- 


Missionary  Conditions  of  To-day  209 


pose  as  to  how  it  should  be  used.  Moreover, 
the  Representante  of  the  barrio  had  granted  the 
widows  the  right  to  sleep  in  the  church. 

"The  inevitable  deduction  forced  upon  one 
by  all  these  circumstances  is  that  the  friars  are 
at  their  scheming  and  underhand  work;  in  fact, 
those  who  have  left  the  Catholic  faith  openly 
avow  that  they  have  been  threatened  with  im- 
prisonment by  the  friars,  and  as  a  consequence 
suffer  from  constant  intimidation. 

"There  are  three  other  instances  where  such 
action  has  been  taken.  First  appears  that  of 
Zamora,  then  Salamanca,  and  latterly  a  native 
Methodist  in  Sampaloc,  who  was  baptized  on 
Sunday  and  arrested  on  Monday. 

"Such  arrests  are  likely  to  continue  unless 
there  be  some  means  adopted  by  which  an  in- 
former who  maliciously  causes  another  person 
to  be  imprisoned  can  be  punished.  As  it  now 
stands,  any  trumped-up  insurrecto  charge  is 
sufficient  to  land  a  native  in  jail,  and  he  has 
no  means  of  redress,  but  has  to  await  patiently 
till  his  trial  comes  up.  Even  then  his  liberty 
may  be  sworn  away." 

Not  only  were  the  missionaries  confronted 
with  more  open  doors  than  they  could  enter 
but  the  two  Bible  Societies  soon  found  them- 
selves compelled  to  add  to  the  number  of  their 
native  colporteurs  and  avail  themselves  as  well 
of  the  services  of   a  number  of  discharged 


210   The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


Christian  soldiers  who  elected  to  remain  in  the 
Islands  and  thus  assist  in  extending  the  Gos- 
pel. Just  before  my  leaving  Manila  I  was  in- 
formed by  Mr.  Goodrich  of  the  American 
Bible  Society  that  he  found  it  impossible  to 
supply  the  demands  for  Protestant  literature, 
Tagalo  Gospels,  and  Spanish  Testaments  and 
Bibles. 

Naturally  the  largeness  of  the  opportunity 
prevented  friction  between  the  different  organ- 
izations, and  the  good-fellowship  existing 
between  the  entire  corps  of  evangelical  work- 
ers in  and  about  the  city  eventually  led  to  a 
most  significant  step — the  formation  of  an 
Evangelical  Union.  To  my  mind  this  agree- 
ment and  recommendation  entered  into  by  the 
representatives  of  all  the  evangelical  societies 
in  the  Islands  marks  the  highest  attainment  in 
the  history  of  missionary  comity.  It  would 
well  be  worth  while  to  consecrate  the  last 
pages  of  this  chapter  to  a  careful  treatment  of 
its  significance.  But  as  the  Union  was  effected 
some  weeks  after  my  departure  from  Manila,  I 
have  thought  best  to  append  an  account  of  the 
formation  of  the  Union,  its  constitution  and 
plans  from  the  pen  of  Mr.  Rodgers.  The 
article  has  already  appeared  in  this  country, 
but  deserves  a  re-reading  by  the  students  and 
supporters  of  Christian  missions.* 

*See  Appendix  B. 


Missionary  Conditions  of  To-day  211 


It  is  now  some  seven  months  since  I  bade 
farewell  to  Manila,  and  I  am  not  able  to  record 
from  personal  observation  the  latest  phases  of 
the  work  either  among  the  troops  or  the  natives. 
By  correspondence  of  a  recent  date,  however,  I 
am  able  to  give  a  brief  summary  of  missionary 
and  Association  conditions  at  the  present  time. 
As  to  the  work  among  the  troops  I  am  in 
receipt  of  the  last  report  of  Mr.  Glunz,  who  has 
returned  once  more  to  the  Islands  to  relieve 
Mr.  Hearne.  His  communication  is  dated 
at  Manila,  November  i,  1901,  and  says  in 
part: 

"Our  work  at  present  is  as  follows:  At 
Manila  we  have  a  two-story  building  well 
lighted  by  electricity.  The  lower  portion  is 
rented  to  the  American  Bible  Society,  we  re- 
taining but  a  store-room  for  our  supplies.  On 
the  upper  floor  we  have  the  office,  secretary's 
room,  correspondence  room,  game  room, 
library,  several  rooms  used  for  dormitories, 
bath  room,  etc.  The  office  is  well  fitted  out 
with  desks,  safe,  typewriter,  mimeograph  and 
letter-press.  The  reading  room  is  by  far  the 
best  in  the  Islands,  all  current  periodicals 
being  on  file.  The  library  numbers  2,500  vol- 
umes. The  auditorium  seats  150  people.  The 
dormitories  will  accommodate  32  men,  although 
at  times,  by  means  of  folding  cots,  we  accom- 
modate over  80.    Mr.  Fitch  has  charge  of  the 


212    The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


Manila  building  and  work,  and  has  Mr.  Wil- 
lard  Lutz,  formerly  a  sergeant  in  the  Forty- 
third  Infantry,  as  his  assistant.  We  also 
employ  a  night  man  on  duty  from  g  p.m.  to 
12  m.  It  is  estimated  that  during  the  last  year 
we  have  held  in  deposit  in  our  safe  to  accom- 
modate the  soldiers  over  §2, 400,000  of  their 
money,  and  with  the  loss  of  but  ^16.  A  Span- 
ish office-boy  is  also  employed,  and  four  Fili- 
pinos do  the  janitor  work  of  the  building. 
The  following  meetings  are  held:  Sunday 
morning  at  9  o'clock,  morning  prayers  at  the 
building,  Sunday  afternoon  services  are  held 
at  two  military  hospitals  in  the  city.  At  7:  30 
Sunday  evening,  an  evangelistic  service  is  held 
at  the  building,  the  attendance  crowding  the 
hall.  Tuesday  evening  a  service  is  held  at 
Pasay  Cavalry  Barracks,  three  miles  south  of 
the  city,  the  usual  attendance  being  from  125 
to  150.  On  Wednesday  evening  a  soldiers' 
prayer-meeting  is  held  at  the  building.  On 
Thursday  evening  a  service  is  held  at  Santa 
Mesa  Hospital,  four  miles  east  of  the  city. 
Friday  evenings  are  occupied  with  lectures, 
socials  and  entertainments,  and  the  hall  is 
always  crowded.  The  best  men  procurable 
are  secured  for  these  services.  We  have  the 
missionaries,  Bible  society  agents,  chaplains, 
and  strong  men  in  the  Army  or  Civil  Service. 
Among  our  plans  for  the  near  future  are  edu- 


Missionary  Conditions  of  To-day  213 


cational  classes  in  Spanish,  English,  book- 
keeping- and  mathematics. 

"There  are  2,000  soldiers  stationed  in  or  near 
Manila,  besides  many  transients,  and  about 
5,000  civilian  young  men,  many  in  government 
employ,  and  the  majority  of  them  ex-soldiers. 
It  is  my  candid  opinion  that,  proportionate  to 
the  population  of  American  young  men,  there 
are  not  as  many  saloons  and  places  of  ill- 
repute  in  Manila  as  in  our  large  cities  at  home. 
Yet  there  is  a  greater  need  for  Association 
work,  because  practically  all  of  the  young  men 
here  are  absolutely  without  a  home-life,  and 
far  from  home  ties. 

"Cavite,  with  its  Navy  Yard  and  its  garrison 
of  500  marines,  is  an  important  point,  and  we 
have  two  buildings  there.  One  just  outside 
the  Navy  Yard  is  granted  by  the  government, 
and  is  used  as  a  reading  room.  The  other 
building,  somewhat  farther  away,  is  equipped 
with  a  restaurant  and  dormitory.  It  is  our 
purpose  to  provide  a  helpful  place  for  men 
on  shore  leave.  Secretary  J.  C.  Webb  is 
in  charge,  and  has  E.  W.  White  as  his 
assistant.  Three  native  boys  are  also  em- 
ployed. Secretary  James  Hunter  at  Olon- 
gapo,  Subig  Bay,  has  a  building  granted  for 
the  use  of  the  Association  by  the  Navy 
officials.  He  conducts  religious  services  and 
educational  classes  for  the  men.    Mr.  Z.  C. 


214    The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


Collins  is  in  charge  of  the  Association  for  the 
Department  of  the  Visayas,  which  includes  the 
islands  of  Panay,  Negros,  Cebu,  Bohol,  Leyte 
and  Samar.  He  has  Mr.  J.  G.  Blazer  as  his 
assistant,  who  will  remain  in  charge  of  the 
building  at  Iloilo,  Mr.  Collins  expecting  to 
travel  most  of  the  time.  Mr.  M.  G.  Bailey, 
traveling  secretary,  makes  his  headquarters  at 
Manila,  but  is  usually  out  on  trips  of  from  one 
to  three  weeks'  duration.  In  this  way  many 
men  are  reached. 

"The  distribution  of  reading  matter,  station- 
ery, and  games  has  been  an  important  work. 
Above  3,000,000  pieces  of  stationery  and  500,- 
000  magazines  and  papers  have  been  dis- 
tributed, the  greater  part  to  garrisons  out  of 
close  touch  with  civilization,  the  Postofifice 
having  granted  free  postage  on  all  such  sup- 
plies. Many  letters  are  received  telling  of  the 
helpfulness  of  these  things,  both  from  officers 
and  men.  It  has  been  stated  in  a  report  of  one 
of  the  medical  authorities  that  half  the  sick- 
ness among  the  soldiers  in  the  Philippines  is  a 
direct  result  of  inactivity  of  mind,  and  cer- 
tainly if  we  are  helping  men  to  overcome  this 
we  are  doing  a  good  work.  The  prospects  are 
very  bright.  We  ask  for  prayer  that  many 
may  be  won  through  the  Association  for  our 
Master." 

Now,  as  to  the  even  more  important  work 


yiissio)iary  Conditions  of  To-day  215 


among  the  Filipinos,  there  are  at  present  but 
four  Protestant  societies  represented  in  the 
Islands.  In  addition  to  the  Methodist,  Presby- 
terian and  Baptist  Boards  the  United  Brethren 
have  been  represented  for  the  past  six  months 
by  two  or  more  representatives.  Wisely  decid- 
ing against  work  directly  at  Manila,  this  new 
mission  opened  up  its  activities  at  the  impor- 
tant town  of  Vigan.  From  this  point  itinerant 
and  colportage  work  is  being  carried  on  in  the 
three  coast  provinces  of  Ilocos  Norte,  Ilocos 
Sur  and  Union.  This  field  presents  the  ad- 
vantage of  but  a  single  dialect,  the  Ilocano, 
and  the  towns  in  which  the  chief  interest  will 
naturally  develop  are  easily  accessible  by  sea. 
The  United  Brethren,  when  reinforced,  will 
undoubtedly  work  up  into  the  province  of 
Abra.  At  the  time  of  my  visit  to  the  Ilocano 
country  I  was  much  struck  with  the  fact  that 
the  inhabitants  seemed  both  more  peaceable 
and  industrious  than  the  Tagalos.  Their  num- 
ber is,  according  to  Spanish  estimates,  some 
4CK),ooo,  although  I  should  not  place  them 
above  300,000.  The  only  portion  of  the  New 
Testament  available  in  the  dialect  at  the  time 
of  my  visit  to  them  was  the  Gospel  of  Luke, 
printed  by  the  British  and  Foreign  Society. 
Many  of  them  can  understand  Spanish,  how- 
ever. 

My  latest  word  from  the  Presbyterian  Mis- 


2i6    The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


sion  is  contained  in  a  letter  dated  the  last  day 
of  September,  1901,  and  written  by  Mr. 
Rodgers  in  response  to  certain  questions  for- 
warded him  on  the  condition  of  the  work 
under  his  supervision.  He  says:  "I  will 
endeavor  to  answer  you,  but  guarantee  that 
before  this  reaches  you,  and  certainly  before 
you  can  publish,  the  figures  will  be  out  of  date. 
I  have  the  honor  of  being  the  first  of  our  Board 
to  reach  these  Islands,  arriving  on  the  21st  of 
April,  1899.  Our  first  services  were  held  in 
private  houses,  the  initial  one  on  the  6th  of 
May,  and  the  first  converts  were  the  Zamora 
family,  whose  father,  Paulino,  had  been  a 
Protestant  for  many  years,  and  whose  son, 
also  a  Christian  previous  to  the  American 
occupation,  is  at  present  the  leading  Filipino 
preacher  of  the  Methodist  Mission.  The  work 
has  developed  steadily,  at  times  taking  great 
bounds  forward.  The  promise  is  great.  We 
have  not  erected  any  chapels  as  yet,  except  at 
Iloilo,  using  for  our  purposes  rented  buildings. 
We  have  three  centers,  Manila,  Iloilo  on 
Panay,  and  Dumaguete  on  Negros.  Our  force 
consists  at  present  of  ten  missionaries,  that  is, 
four  ministers,  two  doctors,  and  four  wives. 
We  have  about  two  hundred  full  members  in 
the  Filipino  church,  and  a  varying  number  in 
the  American.  As  to  native  adherents,  we 
have  about  four  hundred,  but  it  is  impossible 


Missionary  Conditions  of  To-day  217 


to  estimate  correctly.  We  have  ten  or  more 
towns  outside  of  Manila  and  Iloilo  where  we 
conduct  regular  services.  For  fear  that  you 
have  missed  the  account  of  the  union  between 
our  missionaries  here,  I  send  you  a  copy  of  an 
article  explanatory.*  You  have  evidently  not 
heard  of  dear  Davidson's  death  in  June  last. 
He  died  very  suddenly,  and  was  mourned  by 
all.  His  death  has  meant  much  to  me.  Two 
new  men  are  expected  soon.  Miss  White,  who 
has  rendered  such  valuable  aid  during  the  past 
ten  months,  was  married  this  morning  at  our 
home.  We  hope  that  both  she  and  her  hus- 
band will  take  service  with  us." 

My  latest  information  concerning  the  re- 
markable work  of  the  Methodist  Mission  is 
contained  in  a  letter  from  Mr.  McLaughlin, 
dated  in  November,  1901.  The  following  sen- 
tences I  conceive  to  be  of  general  interest: 
"Our  first  real  work  in  these  Islands  began  in 
the  fall  of  '99,  under  the  supervision  of  Mr.  A. 
W.  Prautch,  and  consisted  of  native  services,  at 
first  but  poorly  attended  but  steadily  growing 
in  interest.  Our  first  regular  missionary.  Rev. 
T.  H.  Martin,  arrived  in  March  of  1900.  I 
arrived  in  May,  and  was  appointed  in  charge 
of  the  work.  We  now  have  five  American  mis- 
sionaries here  beside  our  Superintendent,  Dr. 
H.  C.  Stuntz.    These  are  stationed  as  follows: 


♦See  Appendix  B. 


2i8    The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


T.  H.  Martin,  Camiling,  Tarlac  Province;  W. 
G.  Fritz,  San  Fernando,  Pampanga  Province; 
W.  A.  Goodell,  Hagonoy,  Bulacan  Province; 
T.  L.  McLaughlin,  Manila;  Rev.  F.  A.  Mc- 
Carl,  in  Manila  also,  in  charge  of  our  Mission 
press.  In  addition  to  these  men  we  now  have 
four  native  workers  on  salary,  and  ten  licensed 
exhorters.  Three  of  our  American  mission- 
aries are  unmarried.  We  have  as  yet  but  a 
few  full  members.  Only  about  one  hundred,  I 
think.  We  believe  it  best  to  keep  them  on 
probation  as  long  as  possible,  or  at  least  until 
they  are  well  grounded.  Of  probationers,  we 
have  about  2.000.  Our  five  new  chapel  build- 
ings will  accommodate  an  aggregate  number  of 
1,500.  I  have  no  means  of  knowing  how  many 
attend  our  services  weekly.  In  my  own  there 
are  about  12,000.  I  should  loosely  say  that 
there  must  be  at  least  25,000  in  all." 

It  will  be  noticed  by  reference  to  the  Appen- 
dix on  the  Evangelical  Union,  that  the  Metho- 
dists have  taken  as  their  field  central  Luzon 
from  Manila  on  the  south  to  Dagupan  on  the 
north,  and  stretching  from  sea  to  sea.  The 
Presbyterians  have  accepted  the  southern  half 
of  Luzon,  and  in  addition  share  with  the  Bap- 
tist Mission  the  islands  of  Panay  and  Negros. 
Concerning  this  last  denomination  my  latest 
word  is  to  the  effect  that  in  addition  to  the 
work  at  Jaro  and  the  surrounding  country  on 


Missionary  Conditions  of  To-day  219 


Panay  a  station  has  been  opened  and  a  chapel 
erected  at  Bacolod,  the  capital  of  Negros,  in 
pursuance  of  the  plan  conceived  by  Mr.  Lund 
at  the  time  of  our  joint  visit  to  that  town. 
The  occupation  of  Bacolod  will  lead,  of  course, 
to  colportage  and  itinerant  work  among  the 
towns  on  the  northwest  coast  of  Negros.  My 
last  communication  from  Mr.  Lund  showed 
him  to  have  returned  to  Spain,  critically  ill. 
He  in  part  says:  "I  have  just  reached  Barcelona 
after  a  forty-three  days'  journey  from  Iloilo. 
My  illness  has  so  changed  me  that  my  friends 
at  this  port  hardly  recognized  me.  I  have, 
however,  commenced  to  move  about,  and  am 
planning  to  print  the  Visayan  Testament  in 
this  country.  I  ordered  the  paper  for  an  edi- 
tion of  3,000  copies  and  6,000  Gospels  last 
week.  The  Missionary  Union  is  sending  at 
least  two  new  men  to  the  Philippines,  and 
judging  from  the  contributions  for  that  especial 
field,  the  interest  among  the  American  Baptist 
churches  must  be  on  the  increase.  When  I 
left  Jaro  our  work  was  developing  nicely. 
Many  of  the  people  wept  like  children  upon 
my  leaving  them.  And  so  did  I!  They 
accompanied  me  to  the  steamer,  bringing  eggs 
with  them,  that  I  might  not  starve  upon  my 
journey!  Forty  were  baptized  in  the  Jaro 
River  in  June.  A  number  have  been  baptized 
since  I  left.     There  were  many  candidates 


220   The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


accepted.  Let  us  pray  God  particularly  for 
the  new  missionaries  sent  into  that  field." 

There  are  at  present  but  three  represent- 
atives of  the  Baptist  Missionary  Union,  Messrs. 
Briggs,  Findley,  and  Huse,  administering  the 
work  upon  Panay  and  Negros.  They  are  rein- 
forced, however,  by  Senor  Manikin  and  other 
native  workers,  and  a  mission  press  at  Jaro  is 
greatly  increasing  the  efficiency  of  their 
labors. 

In  concluding  this  summary  of  missionary 
activity  in  the  archipelago,  let  me  urge  the 
speedy  reinforcement  of  these  four  societies. 
The  United  Brethren  have  but  two  regular  mis- 
sionaries to  meet  the  needs  of  300,000  Ilocanes. 
The  Presbyterian  portion  of  Luzon  contains  a 
population  (according  to  Mr.  Rodgers)  of 
1,300,000  Tagalos  and  Vicols.  The  Methodist 
section  of  Luzon,  including  as  it  does  the 
populous  Rio  Grande  Valley,  can  hardly  con- 
tain less  than  800,000  Tagalos,  Pampangans 
and  Pangasinanes.  The  Visayans  in  the  great 
central  group  of  islands  are  estimated  as  high 
as  2,500,000,  but  even  half  that  number  would 
make  the  task  of  their  evangelization  out  of 
the  question  by  the  handful  of  devoted  men 
and  women  who  are  stationed  among  them. 
The  regular  missionaries  in  the  entire  archi- 
pelago, which  certainly  numbers  its  population 
between  six  and  seven  millions,  do  not  at  pres- 


Missionary  Conditions  of  To-day  221 


ent  exceed  thirty,  and  this  number  includes,  of 
course,  missionaries'  wives.  For  many 
reasons  which  must  go  even  unstated  here,  the 
number  of  missionaries  should  be  increased 
within  the  next  twelve  months  to  at  least  a 
hundred  laborers.  If  excellently  trained  men 
and  women  cannot  be  obtained  by  the  Board, 
poorly-equipped  workers  should  be  sent  out. 
Unskilled  labor  must  not  be  despised  in  har- 
vest time,  and  grace  has  been  known  to  cover 
many  deficiencies. 

A  word  from  the  field  will  show  the  need  of 
immediate  action  far  more  emphatically  than 
any  statistics  or  statements  of  mine.  It  came 
to  me  some  weeks  ago  from  the  Island  of  Panay. 
"There  is  a  great  movement  up  in  the  interior 
at  present.  About  10,000  Visayans  have  sent  us 
in  their  full  names  (two  long  lists),  expressing 
their  desire  to  leave  Rome  and  know  of  the 
Protestant  religion.  They  are  not,  of  course, 
regenerated,  but  are  open  to  teaching,  and 
some  are  even  ready  to  build  Protestant 
chapels  in  their  barrios  when  we  are  able  to  go 
to  them."  The  openi?ig  of  this  door  found  no  mis- 
sionary  able  to  enter,  a?id  ma7iy  similar  petitions 
and  i?ivitatio?is  have  been  sadly  refused  by  the 
overworked  harvesters. 

In  addition  to  the  imperative  need  of  largely 
reinforcing  the  existing  missions  a  speedy 
evangelization  of  the  Islands  would  seem  to 


222   The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


suggest  the  advisability  of  at  least  two  addi- 
tional Boards  taking  up  work.  Undoubtedly 
the  better  plan  would  be  to  expand  the  work  of 
the  present  denominational  missions  until  they 
covered  the  entire  archipelago,  but  even  with 
the  considerable  reinforcement  I  have  sug- 
gested as  imperatively  needed,  they  would 
still  be  utterly  unable  to  properly  cope  with 
conditions  in  their  present  territory.  Aparri 
would  be  an  ideal  mission  center,  from  which 
the  great  Cagayan  Valley  could  be  evangelized. 
This  country  is  not  densely  populated,  but  its 
many  thousands  will  hardly  be  reached  from 
either  Vigan  or  Pampanga,  and  being  less 
priest-ridden  than  the  more  thickly-populated 
lowlands  of  southern  Luzon,  should  offer 
almost  immediate  encouragement  to  the  mis- 
sionary. A  missionary  society  operating  in 
the  Cagayan  Valley  would  be  in  an  excellent 
position  to  establish  a  branch  work  among  the 
neglected  Igorotes  in  the  mountains  of  north- 
western Luzon.  These  aborigines  cannot 
number  in  that  section  less  than  100,000.  They 
have  not  been  Romanized  to  any  extent,  and 
their  differing  dialects  and  inaccessible  country 
are  difficulties  of  no  mean  order,  but  not,  how- 
ever, sufficiently  formidable  to  daunt  a  true 
missionary  of  the  Cross.  Either  Solano  or 
Bontoc  suggest  themselves  as  suitable  centers 
for  such  an  effort. 


Missionary  Conditions  of  To-day  223 


The  most  arduous  toil  and  delicate  tact 
would  be  necessary  in  any  attempt  to  mission- 
ize  the  Moros  of  Mindanao,  Sulu,  and  southern 
Palawan.  Mohammedan  in  faith,  sensitive, 
warlike,  intolerant  and  revengeful,  the  task  of 
bringing  them  to  Christ  will  be  no  child's  play. 
The  church  of  Christ  should  not  shrink  from 
the  attempt,  however,  and  some  point  on 
Mindanao  should  be  occupied  in  the  near 
future.  The  fact  that  even  the  persistent 
efforts  of  the  Jesuit  fathers  could  make  no 
inroads  upon  the  Moros  would  seem  to  prophesy 
immediate  failure  to  any  Protestant  propa- 
ganda. The  considerable  success  of  the  Dutch 
missionaries  among  the  Mohammedan  Malays 
of  Java  and  Sumatra  is  enough  of  encourage- 
ment, however,  for  some  earnest  band  to  take 
this  post  of  honor.  The  interior  of  Mindanao 
also  offers  some  heroic  pioneer  an  opportunity 
to  bring  the  Gospel  to  its  pagan  tribes. 

In  addition  to  these  suggestions  concerning 
the  Moros,  Cagayans  and  Igorotes,  I  feel  like 
expressing  my  conviction  that  the  work  among 
the  Visayans  should  be  rapidly  extended  to  the 
islands  of  Cebu,  Bohol,  Samar  and  Leyte. 
This  can  be  done  by  largely  augmenting  the 
number  of  workers  on  Panay  and  Negros,  thus 
enabling  them  to  occupy  the  towns  of  Cebu, 
Tacloban,  Tagbilaran  and  Katbalaran,  the 
island  capitals— a  better  plan,  no  doubt,  than 


224   The  Cross  of  Christ  in  Bolo-Land 


the  planting  of  another  denominational  work 
in  the  central  group  of  islands.  The  fact  that 
some  of  these  islands  are  not  entirely  pacified 
should  not  prevent  the  sending  of  mission- 
aries, for  a  score  of  new  stations  could  be 
opened  up  in  the  Visayas  with  no  great  risk  to 
the  missionary,  at  least  no  greater  than  that 
incurred  by  the  brethren  already  in  the  field, 
and  by  the  hundreds  of  government  school- 
teachers now  in  the  Islands.  Every  town  of 
importance  has  an  American  garrison,  and  will 
have  until  the  country  is  in  good  order,  and 
even  were  it  impossible  to  at  once  open  up 
active  work  the  newly  arrived  missionary 
would  find  the  delay  but  an  opportunity  to  learn 
or  perfect  his  Spanish  and  begin  upon  the  par- 
ticular dialect  of  his  chosen  field. 

The  excellent  work  now  being  carried  on  at 
Dumaguete  by  the  Presbyterians  was  rendered 
possible  by  the  generous  gift  of  a  single  Amer- 
ican. The  ten  thousand  dollars  which  made 
the  opening  of  the  station  with  its  service  and 
Visayan  Industrial  School  a  possibility  was 
certainly  a  well-placed  investment  if  the  prac- 
tical benefits  and  spiritual  blessing  conferred 
upon  the  natives  of  southern  Negros  is  consid- 
ered a  good  return.  It  seems  a  sad  pity,  with 
the  bulk  of  the  islands  untouched  by  the  Gos- 
pel, and  such  a  woeful  lack  of  men  at  the 
stations  already  established,  that  more  gifts  of 


Missionary  Conditions  of  To-day  225 


a  like  nature  are  not  forthcoming.  Pray  ye, 
therefore,  brethren,  that  God  may  raise  up 
generous  souls  to  give  and  heroic  souls  to  go, 
that  the  spiritual  harvests  in  the  islands  across 
the  sea  may  no  longer  ripen  ungarnered.  And 
may  the  christian  church  of  america  be 
alive  to  this  present  moment  of  special 
responsibility! 


THE  END. 


Bppen&ix 


Appendix  A. 


Missionary  Statistics  for  the  Philippine 
Islands.   (January,  1902.) 


»  u 
B  a 

a. 


SO 


o 


Sen 

B  2. 


B  w. 


n 


"'  o  G 

7!!  3  2. 


"  n  C 
B  2.M 

B  t" 

—  b'» 

M  B 
ft  „  O 

■P  2  7 


sow 

rt  ft 
•4  •! 


ft 

fa 


a: 
» 

ft  (11 

d.B 
B  Cl 

n  B 

B  a. 


MS' 


iiB 


cr.5' 


2  P 


n  3- 


B  3 

ffi  ft 


9  s 


B  rt  B 
B   B  a 


B  » 

"  o  a  ^■ 

B|^0 


CO     o>  CO 


W      1^  o 


^^  o 


«9      C71  to 


Licensed 

Native 

Helpers. 

t3      W      rf"  fC 

No.  of  Mis- 
sion-centers. 

00 

to  o 

Probationers. 

Adherents. 

Weekly 
Attendance. 

g    Oi  ^a 
O  S 

Full  Com- 
municants. 

<o  to 

Chapels 
erected. 

Mission 
presses. 

J  Rev.  C.W.  Brings, 
1  Iloilo,  Panay.P.I. 
j  Dr.  H.  C.  Stuntz, 
(  Manila,  P.  I. 
j  Rev.  J.  B.  Ro(3g- 
1  ers,  Manila,  P.  I. 

(?)  Vigan,  P.  I. 

J  Bish'pC.H.Brent, 
1  Manila  ,  P.I. 

Name  and  address 

of  Missionary 
having  oversight. 

No.  of 

Ordained 

Missionaries. 


No.  of  Wives. 


No.  of 

Medical 

Missionaries. 


Salaried 

Native 

Helpers. 


226 


-» 


The  white  represents  the  territory  already  occupied  by 
the  four  missionary  societies  at  present  sustaining  work  in  the 
Islands  under  the  general  name  uf  The  Kvantjelical  Church  of 
the  Philippines.  Accordinij  to  the  agreenient  of  the  Evan- 
gelical L'nion  (see  Appendix  H)  the  Methodist  Mission  occu- 
pies Central  Luzon  from  Manila  to  Uagupan.  the  Presby- 
terian Mission  Southern  Luzon,  and  the  I'nited  Hrethren  the 
northwest  coast  of  Luzon.  The  Presbyterians  also  work  from 
Iloilo  through  Western  Panay  and  from  Duniaguete  through 
Southern  Negros,  while  the  Baptists  work  from  Hacolod 
through  Northern  Negros  and  from  Jaro  through  Kastcrn 
Panay.  In  addition  to  these  boards,  a  Protestant  Kpiscopal 
M  ission  will  soon  be  established  with  headquarters  in  Manila. 
But  notice  the  gn-at  fields  unoccupied.  The  population  of 
the  islands,  according  to  the  latest  census  ( 1901)  is  but  little 
short  of  seven  millions.  I.tss  than  thirty  missionaries  (man 
and  women)  represent  the  Christian  churches  of  America 
among  this  multitude. 


MAP  SIlOWINt;   KIKLDS  OF  .MISSIONARY  OI'KKATION. 


APPENDIX  B 


COMITY  IN  PHILIPPINE  MISSION  WORK 


In  recent  correspondence  with  Rev.  James 
B.  Rodgers  of  Manila,  I  was  forwarded  a  copy 
of  the  following  article  written  by  Mr.  Rodgers 
himself  and  appearing  in  "The  Evangelist"  of 
June  20,  1901.  It  is  of  the  greatest  interest  to 
students  and  friends  of  missions,  and  I  take  the 
liberty  of  appending  it  in  full. 

"Not  a  fortuitous  but  a  providential  con- 
course of  missionary  atoms  brought  into 
Manila  at  the  same  time  the  Missionary 
Bishop  of  the  Methodist  Church,  the  Rev. 
Frank  W.  Warne  from  Calcutta,  and  from  the 
opposite  direction  the  new  Superintendent  of 
the  Methodist  work  here,  Dr.  H.  C.  Stuntz, 
and  a  younger  missionary,  Mr.  Goodel.  Two 
missionaries  of  the  United  Brethren  Church 
had  arrived  only  a  week  or  two  before  and  were 
studying  the  field.  Our. own  Dr.  Rhea  Ewing  of 
Lahore  also  arrived  to  complete  the  balance, 
and  give  to  our  mission  what  in  the  eyes  of  the 
people  was  most  proper,  a  real  live  bishop. 
For  some  time  past,  we  veterans  (?)  had  felt  in 
our  hearts  that  we  must  seize  this  opportunity 
for  a  definite  understanding  as  to  the  methods 
of  work,  especially  as  to  the  division  of  the 
field,  in  such  a  way  as  to  relieve  one  another 

227 


228  Appendix 


of  the  dread  of  intruding  into  one  another's 
province. 

"A  number  of  pleasant  reunions  of  a  social 
nature  in  a  sense  prepared  the  way  for  a  more 
serious  Conference  on  the  whole  question  of 
mission  relations  and  polity.  The  Conference 
was  full  and  through  the  presence  of  the 
bishops  from  India  more  authoritative  than  an 
ordinary  Conference  would  have  been.  At 
this  Conference  there  were  present  Bishop 
Warne  and  four  missionaries  of  the  Methodist 
Church,  Dr.  Ewing  and  the  three  Manila  mis- 
sionaries of  our  church,  two  of  the  United 
Brethren  Church,  and  one  each  of  the  Chris- 
tian and  Missionary  Alliance,  the  two  Bible 
Societies  and  Young  Men's  Christian  Associa- 
tion. The  Iloilo  brethren  had  not  been 
warned  in  time,  so  that  the  Baptist  Missionary 
Union  was  not  represented.  The  Baptist  mis- 
sionaries have  since  joined  with  the  others  and 
agreed  to  all  that  was  done. 

"The  writer  of  this  article  being  called  upon 
to  state  the  question,  repeated  the  letter  sent 
to  the  different  missions  by  the  Presbyterian 
Mission  at  the  beginning  of  the  year.  Four 
items  were  mentioned:  First,  division  of  the 
field;  second,  adoption  of  a  common  name; 
third,  so  shaping  the  growth  of  the  churches  as 
to  bring  about  in  the  future  practical  unity, 
and  fourth,  conferences  over  general  work, 


Appendix  229 


such  as  printing,  newspaper,  schools  and 
similar  work,  so  as  to  avoid  unnecessary  dupli- 
cation. 

"After  careful  and  prayerful  consideration, 
the  following  plans  were  outlined  and  agreed 
to: 

"Firstly,  an  Evangelical  Union  (or  Federa- 
tion) was  formed  which  is  to  include  in  its 
membership  all  representatives  of  Evangelical 
organizations  working  in  the  Islands  and  such 
other  Christians  as  may  be  elected,  either  lay 
or  clerical.  Naturally  its  constituency  will  in- 
clude all  the  Evangelical  Churches  in  the 
Islands.  The  Union  is  to  be  managed  by  an 
Executive  Committee  which  is  composed  of  two 
representatives  of  each  organization  in  the 
Union. 

"To  this  committee  are  to  be  referred  for 
counsel  all  questions  that  arise  between  the 
missions.  It  is  to  meet  and  persuade  new  mis- 
sions to  join  the  Union  and  assist  them  in 
choosing  a  field.  It  is  to  call  and  arrange  for 
annual  conventions  of  the  Union,  at  which 
representatives  from  all  the  archipelago  may 
be  present.  This  we  trust  will  not  only  bind 
the  people  together  in  one  church,  but  will  in 
some  way  take  the  place  of  the  old-time  fiestas 
and  gatherings. 

"In  the  second  place,  a  common  name  was 
adopted,  and   all   churches   will   be  called 


230  Appendix 


Evangelical  Churches  with  the  name  of  the 
parent  church  in  brackets,  if  need  be,  as  for 
example:  La  Iglesia  Evangelica  de  Iloilo 
(Mission  Presbiteriana).  This  will  do  much 
toward  minimizing  the  denominational  differ- 
ences and  forming  a  bond  of  union  between  all 
the  churches. 

"Thirdly,  the  field  was  divided  into  specific 
sections,  compact  both  geographically  and 
ethnically,  and  each  mission  made  itself  re- 
sponsible for  the  evangelization  of  one  or  more 
sections.  The  plan  may  be  revised  after  three 
years  by  the  Evangelical  Union.  The  idea  of 
limiting  any  mission  was  lost  sight  of  in  the 
acceptance  of  a  definite  responsibility. 

"In  Luzon  the  United  Brethren  are  to  take 
the  northwest  coast  or  the  three  Ilocano 
provinces.  One  language  prevails  there,  and 
the  towns  are  easily  accessible  by  sea.  The 
Methodist  Church  takes  the  responsibility  of 
the  central  part  of  Luzon  from  Manila  to 
Dagupan  on  the  bay  of  Lugayen,  and  from  sea 
to  sea.  We  have  accepted  as  our  part  Luzon 
from  Manila  south,  and  half  of  Panay  and 
Negros,  while  the  Baptists  have  the  other  half 
of  Panay  and  Negros.  If  any  society  desires 
to  strike  out  into  the  unoccupied  fields  it  can 
do  so  after  consultation  with  the  Executive 
Committee. 

"Officers  were  elected  to  the  Union.  Presi- 


Appendix  231 


dent,  Major  E.  W.  Halford,  U.  S.  A.,  of  the 
Methodist  Church;  Vice-Presidents,  the  Rev. 
C.  W.  Briggs  of  the  Baptist  Mission,  and  the 
Rev.  E.  S.  Ebyof  the  United  Brethren;  Secre- 
tary, the  Rev.  L.  P.  Davidson  of  the  Presby- 
terian Mission,  and  Treasurer,  Mr.  Z.  C. 
Collins  of  the  Young  Men's  Christian  Associa- 
tion. Mr.  Goodrich  of  the  American  Bible 
Society  is  Chairman  of  the  Executive  Com- 
mittee, and  Mr.  Davidson  Secretary. 

CONSTITUTION  AND  BV-LAWS  OF  THE  EVANGELICAL 
UNION  OF  THE  PHILIPPINE  ISLANDS 

(Adopted  by  the  conference  of  missionaries  in  Manila, 
April  24-26,  1901.) 

"Art.  I. — Name.  The  name  of  this  Society 
shall  be  the  'Evangelical  Union  of  the  Philip- 
pine Islands.' 

"Art.  II.— Object.  It  shall  be  the  object  of 
this  Society  to  unite  all  the  Evangelical  forces 
in  the  Philippine  Islands  for  the  purpose  of 
securing  comity  and  effectiveness  in  their  mis- 
sionary operations. 

"Art.  III.— Membership.  All  regular  ap- 
pointees of  recognized  Evangelical  organiza- 
tions working  in  the  Philippine  Islands  maybe 
members  of  the  Union.  Other  Christians,  lay 
or  clerical,  may  be  elected  to  membership  by 
the  Executive  Committee. 


232  Appendix 


"Art.  IV. — Management.  There  shall  be  a 
central  Executive  Committee  composed  of  two 
members  from  each  recognized  Evangelical 
organization  represented  in  the  Union,  and 
working  in  the  Philippine  Islands.  Each 
organization  shall  choose  its  representative  in 
the  committee.  This  committee  shall  con- 
sider and  make  recommendations  upon  all 
questions  referred  to  them  affecting  mission- 
ary comity  in  the  Philippine  Islands.  The 
Executive  Committee  shall  elect  its  own 
officers. 

"Art.  V. — General  Officers.  The  general 
officers  of  the  Union  shall  be  a  President,  two 
Vice-Presidents,  a  Secretary  and  a  Treasurer, 
to  be  elected  at  the  annual  meeting  on  nomi- 
nation of  the  Executive  Committee. 

"Art.  VI. — Amendments.  This  Constitu- 
tion may  be  amended  upon  recommendation 
of  the  Executive  Committee  at  any  annual 
meeting  of  the  Union  by  a  majority  vote,  due 
notice  having  been  given  of  proposed  amend- 
ment. 

BY- LAWS 

"ist.  The  Executive  Committee  shall  meet 
once  a  year  or  at  any  time  upon  the  call  of  the 
Secretary,  for  any  special  business  to  come 
before  the  committee. 

"2d.    The  Union  shall  have  an  annual  Con- 


Appendix  233 


vention,  arrangements  for  which  shall  be  in 
the  hands  of  the  Executive  Committee. 

"3d.  One  of  the  duties  of  the  Executive 
Committee  shall  be  to  meet  and  confer  with 
workers  of  any  Societies  that  are  not  now 
parties  to  this  agreement,  and  to  confer  with 
and  advise  representatives  of  Societies  arriving 
in  the  future  as  to  the  location  of  their  respec- 
tive fields.  Also  to  earnestly  urge  them  to 
become  parties  to  the  agreement  and  to  choose 
members  who  shall  represent  their  missions  in 
the  Executive  Committee  of  the  Union. 

"4th.  The  name  'Iglesia  Evangelica'  shall 
be  used  for  the  Filipino  churches  which  shall 
be  raised  up,  and  when  necessary  the  denomi- 
nation name  shall  be  added  in  parentheses, 
e.  g.,  'Iglesia  Evangelica  de  Malibay  (Mission 
Methodista  Ep.).'  " 


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